Stock Amplifier & Rear Subwoofer

Clifton Viper

Viper Owner
Joined
May 27, 2003
Posts
107
Reaction score
0
Location
Clifton, VA.
I removed the (rear) subwoofer on my 02 RT/10. The speaker impedance is 6 ohms according to the stamp on the back of it.

Does anyone know if the rear channels on the amp are 4 ohm stable (ie. does a replacement need to be 6+ ohms)?

Also, to get the best sound, should a crossover be installed? Seems like the signal is full frequency out of the amp.

Incidentally, I replaced the front speakers (both door and tweeter) with a 6" component system from Rockford Fosgate. The fit was perfect both on the door and tweeter. Part number was FNX2614U if anyone is interested. Good improvement in clarity over stock speakers... I can email pics if anyone is interested.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

SapphireGTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 16, 2001
Posts
2,469
Reaction score
0
Location
Columbus Ohio
The amp is 4 ohm stable. I used to have the same setup with no problems.

If the speakers you are referring to are not full range then, yes , id install a crossover.


If are are redoing the stereo, you can gain alot of sound quality and control if you replaced the amp and head unit. It has built in active x-over

You must be registered for see images


This amp fits in the factory location and uses all stock wire with the exception of 2 rca cables.

Good luck
 
OP
OP
C

Clifton Viper

Viper Owner
Joined
May 27, 2003
Posts
107
Reaction score
0
Location
Clifton, VA.
Thanks SapphireGTS. I'm probably going to do what you did in the long run. What do the 2 rca cables connect?


sbkim -

Tweeter removal:

Start by removing the door speaker. Three screws hold both the grill and the speaker. The wire connecting the speaker has a snap connector which is easily disconnected. Carefully use a flat bladed screw driver to pry the grill off.

With the door speaker removed, you can access two of the screws which attach the door panel which are located behind the door speaker (remove them).

There are a total of 4 additional screws holding the door panel: one is on the underside towards the rear of the door; one is at the lower front of the door where the hinges are; one is underneath/behind the door handle; one is at the top of the rear of the door just below and to the rear of the emergency release of the door.

Once the screws are off, the door panel can be lifted upwards to disengage it from the clips along the top. This does not take alot of force but it does need a bit of manipulation to clear the trim panel which frames the rear edge of the window.

THERE ARE TWO WIRE BUNDLES CONNECTING THE DOOR PANEL TO THE DOOR. Be sure to disconnect these before pulling the door panel completely away. One is for the lock/window mechanism, the other is the source for the tweeter.

The rest is easy. There are two screws holding a metal bracket which hold the tweeter to the panel. Remove these and then remove the middle screw which holds the bracket to the tweeter itself. After completely removing this metal bracket, the tweeter can be removed by pushing it from its backside. It will pop out as it is friction held at this point.

I can send some pics if you PM me your email address. Good luck.
 

SapphireGTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 16, 2001
Posts
2,469
Reaction score
0
Location
Columbus Ohio
Thanks SapphireGTS. I'm probably going to do what you did in the long run. What do the 2 rca cables connect?

If you replace the amp and head unit, the RCA cables pass signal to the amp. All other factory wiring can be retained.
 
Top