Stroker engine Gen. II - build input wanted

SilverSnake

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Ahhh...if I remember correctly you installed one in your Viper. Who did you buy the crank from? And if you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost?

What stroke length did you achieve with a stock SRT10 crank...4.0"?

My engine is still a 488 but i want to stroke it. That doesn't sound good.:nono:
 
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GTSjbud

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Here is the information Plumcrazy sent me:

it seems most guys go this route. talk to joseph dell, he's the man and helped me tremendously.

here's a list of what i had built....


510 Stroker

BORE CYLINDERS 10
HONE CYLINDERS (.005)
TORQUE PLATE V-10
MACHINE BLOCK DECK SURFACE V-10
ALIGN BORE V-10 FOR BILLET MAIN CAPS
PIN FIT RODS
PIN FIT PISTONS
BALANCE COMPLETE V-10 ROTATING ASSEMBLY
OFFSET GRIND V-10 CRANKSHAFT
MACHINE V-10 CRANKSHAFT FOR DUAL KEYWAY
MACHINE V10 CRANK FOR OILING
ASSEMBLE V-10 RACE LONGBLOCK
DODGE VIPER V-10 BILLET MAIN CAP SET (6)
OLIVER BILLET STANDARD 6.250/2.100/.927 V10 ROD SET
CP CHRY. V-10 FORGED PISTON SET
CP PIN FIT PISTONS
CP SPIRAL LOCK .927x.073 CSL
CP .180+ WALL WRIST PIN
CP OIL RAIL SUPPORT
CP 1-WEEK EXPEDITE FEE
CLEVITE/CALICO VIPER CALICO COATED PERFORMANCE MAIN BEARING .010
CLEVITE SBC PERFORMANCE ROD BEARING CALICO COATED W/ EXTRA
CLEARANCE
TOTAL SEAL TNT V10 RING SET 4.045 1/16 - 1/16 - 3/16
COMETIC HEAD GASKET VIPER V10 MLS 4.060 .027
MOPAR V-10 VIPER REAR COVER GASKET
MOPAR V-10 VIPER TIMING COVER GASKET
MOPAR V-10 VIPER FRONT SEAL
MOPAR V-10 VIPER OIL PAN GASKET(REUSED FROM ORIGINAL MOTOR)
SHOP SUPPLY CHARGE
WELDING PER HOUR ( 1 HOUR MINIMUM) (WELD #10 OIL DRAIN IN OIL PAN)
MACHINE CAM FOR 3 BOLT GEAR
EARLS ALUM -10 MALE WELD FITTING
CLOYES HEX-A-JUST FOR V-10 VIPER WITH 3 BOLT CAM
COMP CAMS CUSTOM CAMSHAFT FOR GEN II V-10 VIPER
MANLEY 4130 5/16 PUSHRODS 7.500 LONG
MOPAR V-10 VALVE COVER GASKET
1300 LB TRIPLE WALL SHIPPING CRATE
UNIVERSAL ENGINE CRADLE
SHOP LABOR ( CRATE UP ENGINE FOR SHIPMENT)

and

Greg Good Stage 1 heads ::
2.00 intake x 1.600 exhaust
Valve springs are Comp Cams beehive springs set up for “708” cam with 1.7
ratio rockers. 155 seat press./355 open press. Comp Cams retainers and
springs locators. Iskenderian billet steel valve locks. Factory metal/viton
seals.
Valves are REV one piece stainless steel. 2.00” x 1.600
Combustion chambers are 79 cc’s and the heads have been milled .005
 
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InjectTheVenom

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Man that's a sweet list, I keep getting this "exploded view" image in my head of everything spread out on the floor, lol. I wish I was in your shoes right now!
 

InjectTheVenom

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Mmmmmm....speed parts :naughty:

Better yet, the utter and total feeling of satisfaction that you did all the work yourself!
I am that way with the interior of my car that I'm doing totally on my own.. *AUCH.. YEA ma you do the work on the sewing machine!*, just barely using enough tips to build on my already present crafts skills.
 

plumcrazy

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and talk to the engine builder about the cam. i was going to use the 708 originally but he said he preferred this comp cams spec cam.
 
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GTSjbud

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JD has advised me to purchase my cam from Greg Good. I have spoken to Greg and he has suggested the best cam for a TT car is a solid roller. He gave me some reasons but I forget what they were. I will post the additional info on Monday.
 

Joseph Dell

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Generally speaking, your engine builder will have an opinion on cams. the solid lifter set-up is quite cool if you are doing a complete build. If you were going for a higher revving motor, though (say, to build a motor that revs to 7k+rpm) you'd not want to stroke the motor at all. but definitely get your combination vetted by your engine builder... that's all. Plum's cam is a good cam. Greg recommends good cams based on the head work and other engine building parameters.

long story short: Go for it!

Joseph
 
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GTSjbud

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Generally speaking, your engine builder will have an opinion on cams. the solid lifter set-up is quite cool if you are doing a complete build. If you were going for a higher revving motor, though (say, to build a motor that revs to 7k+rpm) you'd not want to stroke the motor at all. but definitely get your combination vetted by your engine builder... that's all. Plum's cam is a good cam. Greg recommends good cams based on the head work and other engine building parameters.

long story short: Go for it!

Joseph

So if I understand correctly a solid roller is a good setup for a TT engine that has been completely rebuild with all new internals.

Thanks :2tu:
 

Joseph Dell

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So if I understand correctly a solid roller is a good setup for a TT engine that has been completely rebuild with all new internals.

Thanks :2tu:

It all depends on your goals. If you aren't going to run the car past 5k then don't bother with a solid lifter set-up.

The most important thing you can do is to set your goals and then set the plan to achieve them. Pulling a motor, doing maincaps, stroking it, porting heads, etc... it's all nice for the vendors but each item may not be helping you (aka: could be overkill or might be hurting you).

so back up, take a deep breath, figure out your power goals, and then re-examine.

There are only a handful of people i know who run solid-lifter set-ups. and i'm not one of them.
 

dave6666

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It all depends on your goals. If you aren't going to run the car past 5k then don't bother with a solid lifter set-up.

The most important thing you can do is to set your goals and then set the plan to achieve them. Pulling a motor, doing maincaps, stroking it, porting heads, etc... it's all nice for the vendors but each item may not be helping you (aka: could be overkill or might be hurting you).

so back up, take a deep breath, figure out your power goals, and then re-examine.

There are only a handful of people i know who run solid-lifter set-ups. and i'm not one of them.

He wants to do 250 mph. Reverse calculate to determine hp.

Oh yeah... 250 mph with the loudest stereo known to mankind blasting.
 

RTTTTed

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What's the money invested so far? Sounds about $60,000

Ted
 
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GTSjbud

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It all depends on your goals. If you aren't going to run the car past 5k then don't bother with a solid lifter set-up.

The most important thing you can do is to set your goals and then set the plan to achieve them. Pulling a motor, doing maincaps, stroking it, porting heads, etc... it's all nice for the vendors but each item may not be helping you (aka: could be overkill or might be hurting you).

so back up, take a deep breath, figure out your power goals, and then re-examine.

There are only a handful of people i know who run solid-lifter set-ups. and i'm not one of them.

Yo JD!

I am officially a little confused now :confused: In your previous post you said that Greg Good selects good cams and knows how to match heads/cam with the TT setup and he therefore suggested a solid cam. Correct me if I am wrong but you suggest very few people run solid cams and you run a hydraulic setup with your TT.

I am backing up and taking a deep breath :smirk: Please advise on my build:

CPE twin turbos
Greg Good heads
compression = 9.0:1

Horsepower goals=??? (What realistically will the CPE system put out on 93 octane or better)

**I want the fastest street car possible with the ability to go 250mph (once-in-a-blue-moon) :D

What do you expect would be the engine rev range for a motor such as this?

What should I use...hydraulic or solid cam?

I look forward to your input!
Cheers
Jason

 
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GTSjbud

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What's the money invested so far? Sounds about $60,000

Ted

I honestly don't ever add the monies up. So I have no idea :dunno:

Oh, I have many, many things that I have not yet purchased; twin turbo, etc so I have not spent a significant amount of monies...yet ;)
 

Disturbed

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With the stock bore and stroke, correct valve train and a dry sump system, you can easily rev to 7000rpm. Why more people don't do it....because of the cost of the dry sump system....and most people like big ci motors anyway :D
 
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