Stuck o2 sensor

steponz

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I can't get the damn thing out....:mad:

I tried so hard to loosen it and it works for about a half a turn, then it won't turn at all anymore... Even broke 2 crappy rachets.... :omg:

I can then tighten it about a half a turn....

But no matter what I can't get the damn thing out....

Any sugguestions??? :dunno:

I ended up taking the side sill off and removing my exhaust to try to get to it...

Should I try heating it up????:confused:

Thanks,

Joe
 
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steponz

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Oh yeah... Its the passenger bank upstream sensor...

What a pain in the a$$....

Joe
 

ILLSMOQ

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The threads are damaged. You will have to replace the ****....and the sensor.

The manifold will have to come off.

Headers? :)
 

RAYSIR

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Spray some penetrating oil on it after you loosen it. Keep working it back and forth and it will come out. You can also spray it down then use a propane torch and heat the area around it to get the oil working and expand the outer metals. Don't be afraid to get the surounding metal REAL hot.
 
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steponz

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ILLSMOQ,

Your so negative...

or maybe that's a positive??? lol

I am going to try it again.. .With some penetrating oil and heat...


Joe

The threads are damaged. You will have to replace the ****....and the sensor.

The manifold will have to come off.

Headers? :)
 

ILLSMOQ

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ILLSMOQ,

Your so negative...

or maybe that's a positive??? lol

I am going to try it again.. .With some penetrating oil and heat...


Joe

haha...just never been one to sugar coat things.

It won't hurt anymore to try and get it out, keep working it and look at the threads in the **** when you get it out....only a couple threads hold the sensors in so if they are pretty messed up, your new sensor might pop out one day.
 
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steponz

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Looks like we can wait on the headers... They are on my shopping list next year though... Whats the deal with the MandM's?

I got the o2 sensor out.... What a pain in the a$$......

I am going to put anti-seize on the new one...

Thanks for the tips...

It took penetrating oil, a wrench, and hammer.....

Joe
 

ILLSMOQ

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Cool man.

on the M&M's everything you need to know is in that thread....I wouldn't be surprised to see a price jump on those things.
 
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steponz

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Looks like the thread is all the way out.... Its actually stuck to the damn o2 sensor...
What pos.....

Looks like I might as well get headers....

I like the m&m's, do they have a website at all???

In the other thread I mentioned about the cats..

Can i bolt up the stock cats with these??? or would I just go catless with sims??

Joe
 

ILLSMOQ

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I don't think they have a website.

As far as the cats go...some run them, some don't. I don't. Metal substrate is the way to go if you are going to run cats in a supercharged application...I guess the ceramics are more easily damaged from a richer tune.

If I wanted to run cats with the M&M headers I would take my factory secondary cats(which happen to be metal substrate) open them up to 3" and splice them into the connector pipes that come with the M&M headers....B&B Triflo uses stock SRT metal substrates, opens them up to 3" and polishes them out with their full exhaust system;)

On the O2 sims...I bought a set from Parts Rack and they did not work. $200.00 poorer :) I then reconnected the secondary o2 sensors and tied them up near the transmission - reading open air. They have been that way for 10K miles and I've had zero issues going this route. (did MikeR's car this way too)

Grab a set of those M&M headers! Contact SNKEBIT or myself when you are ready to install them and we can give you some helpful tips on the installation.

Oh and if I get banned form this site for saying something bad about Parts Rack, you can find me at the Alley:2tu:

-Kurtis

Looks like the thread is all the way out.... Its actually stuck to the damn o2 sensor...
What pos.....

Looks like I might as well get headers....

I like the m&m's, do they have a website at all???

In the other thread I mentioned about the cats..

Can i bolt up the stock cats with these??? or would I just go catless with sims??

Joe
 

RAYSIR

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Think I'd be checking on a heli-coil before the headers. Unless you have plenty of money and doing it yourself. They make helicoil to fix stripped spark plug holes sure they would have them in O2 size. Or cut out the old **** and weld in a new.
 

ILLSMOQ

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Think I'd be checking on a heli-coil before the headers. Unless you have plenty of money and doing it yourself. They make helicoil to fix stripped spark plug holes sure they would have them in O2 size. Or cut out the old **** and weld in a new.

If you can get it there welding in a new **** would be great.
 
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steponz

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I think I might do temp... helio coil just for now.. to get the car running...
If that doesn't work, I will just get the headers...

I am not much of a welder...
What's a good starter place to learn to weld????

Would be good to know to put in widebands..

Thanks,

Joe
 

ILLSMOQ

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I taught myself. I don't make the prettiest welds but they work....the gas really affects the quality/look of the weld. Bought an inexpencive Lincoln 100 amp welder and the gas kit from home depot, I've used and abused this thing for 10 years.

Practice on scrap metal.
 
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steponz

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They have one without gas and is a wire feed welder...

Would that work to do exhaust work??

Joe
 

ILLSMOQ

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Yes wire feed.

You don't need the gas but the welds will be much cleaner and ********* better.

You need to buy the gas attachment seperate. Home Depot does not carriy the tanks. You'll need to check with your local welding supply place for that. Just tell them the equipment you are using and what you are trying to weld they will set you up.

Everthign should be around $500.00
 

FE 065

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I just read somewhere about a trick for freeing up stubborn bolts etc..I think it went like this:

Heat the part up and touch a candle to it. The wax will jump right in between the threads and the bolt will come out easy as you please..

I think that's right, anyone familiar with that ?
http://www.geocities.com/vipergaragesale/index.html
 

Viper Specialty

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Hey Joe,

If you would like, ship that header up here. I'll cut out the old **** and TIG weld not one, but two on that header, that way you have a place for the wideband... just pay for the bungs and plug, around 20 bucks. I just want to see you get the frick'n car back on the road already, and a header is not the best place to learn to weld- it is just about the easiest place to develope a crack or leak. 1 day turnaround.
 

RAYSIR

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A heli coil doesnt have to be a temporary fix. Its stainless threads and they hold. They are used to fix stripped out aluminum heads where the spark plugs strip them. We use them a lot. The Ford 5.4s have a real problem with stipped plugs. and we helicoil them.

WTG, Daniel great help!!!
 
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steponz

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Sounds like a plan to me....

Only problem is that I won't be in Tampa til thursday night.

I will remove it then and send it off to ya....

I would definitely like to have a second **** welded in for an a/f sensor....

Thanks soooo much.....

Joe



Hey Joe,

If you would like, ship that header up here. I'll cut out the old **** and TIG weld not one, but two on that header, that way you have a place for the wideband... just pay for the bungs and plug, around 20 bucks. I just want to see you get the frick'n car back on the road already, and a header is not the best place to learn to weld- it is just about the easiest place to develope a crack or leak. 1 day turnaround.
 

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