transmission code P1719

oufan2929

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Anyone know what this code is for? I believe it to be something to do w/the skip shift...But I'm not sure...Thanks--Andy
 
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If you have a skip shift eliminator it could be bad. If not I would check the connection. We don't see many of these unless there is a failed Skip shift kit.
 

CPPRHD265

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Reviving thread because I have a similar issue. Car popped a code on my way to work this morning. I had a hella time getting it into reverse to get out of the parking spot. The reverse lockout solonoid seems to be stuck in the lockout position. I put the scanner on it when I got home, P1719 transmission code. I'll put it up over the weekend and see if anything came loose on the transmission.

I'm guessing the reverse lockout is on the upper right side of the t56? Can I get to it without major disassembly?
 

johniew398

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P1719 Skip Shift Solenoid Circuit An open or shorted condition detected in the transmission
2-3 gear lockout solenoid control circuit
 

CPPRHD265

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Thanks to Viper Rs advice, I found the DN/O2 15 amp fuse blown. The reverse solonoid must ride the same circuit as the O2 heaters, had additional codes for them as well. I'll swap out the fuse and cross my fingers I don't have a wiring problem.
 

CPPRHD265

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Replacing the fuse resolved the issue... Fuse blew again after about 10 minutes of driving. Replaced it, and blew again after another 10 minutes.

Looks like I'll have to poke around and check out the O2 wires for faults. I'm thinking I have a bad O2 sensor though, as I protected the wiring pretty well when I installed the Belanger pipes 2 years ago.
 
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You will find the wires on the rear 02 sensors are damaged, you will have to use some type of foil fiberglass heat wrap, probably a couple layers to keep it from happening again. The passenger side is the most prone so you could look there first, but do both sides.


Replacing the fuse resolved the issue... Fuse blew again after about 10 minutes of driving. Replaced it, and blew again after another 10 minutes.

Looks like I'll have to poke around and check out the O2 wires for faults. I'm thinking I have a bad O2 sensor though, as I protected the wiring pretty well when I installed the Belanger pipes 2 years ago.
 

CPPRHD265

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I'm going to pull the sills next weekend, I just don't have time to do it any earlier. When I put in the new pipes, I made sure to wrap the O2 wires with fiberglass headder wrap pretty thick & banded with metal zip ties. I also "tweeked" the heat shielding to prevent a sharp edge from rubbing the wrap. I *really* doubt that has givin out, but to get to everything the sills gotta come off anyway so we'll see.

If I have to replace one, I'm just going to replace them all. Anyone have a quickie cost on the O2s?
 

Westxsrt10

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I'm going to pull the sills next weekend, I just don't have time to do it any earlier. When I put in the new pipes, I made sure to wrap the O2 wires with fiberglass headder wrap pretty thick & banded with metal zip ties. I also "tweeked" the heat shielding to prevent a sharp edge from rubbing the wrap. I *really* doubt that has givin out, but to get to everything the sills gotta come off anyway so we'll see.

If I have to replace one, I'm just going to replace them all. Anyone have a quickie cost on the O2s?
Gen4? $40 Parts Geek, Bosch 15-511

------------------------------------------------
08 Viper, Belanger full exhaust
 

sctdev

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Just FYI O2's aren't a place to save money. Get the rights ones, not some cheap clones.
 

CPPRHD265

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Ok, I finally got the time to yank the sills off and check out the rear O2s. The heat wrap I put on the wires when I installed the new pipes 2 years ago looked good, just like the day I installed em. Went ahead an pulled the O2s out, and unwrapped the wires. I found that the passanger side O2 had burned through the grey wire right at the base of the sensor where the wires enter the sensor body. It looks to me that the sensor body got hot, and the extreme angle the wires have to take to get around the pipe caused the grey wire to touch the sensor housing. This eventually caused the grey wire to ground out on the sensor case after the insulation burned through.

So, how can I keep that from happining again? I'm brainstorming for ideas on how to protect the wires at the sensor junction.
 

CPPRHD265

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Well, it's going to be button up time this week, so unless anyone has a suggestion... I'm just going to try and wrap the junction area a bit thicker than last time and put it all back together.
 

CPPRHD265

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Just a quick follow up. Bosch 15-511 are NOT the correct O2s for a 2005 Viper. They are key'd wrong at the connector. The sensor body on the 15511 does look very much the same, it's the wiring that's different. I picked up part number 56041706AA from my local dealership.

When I swapped out the exhaust a couple years ago, I made sure to wrap up the O2 wiring to prevent rubbing/chaffing. Well, it turns out that the wires on the passenger side burned through after touching the sensor housing inside the thermal wrap. This time around I made a couple loops around the sensor body at the wire junction with header wrap. Then I put the wiring assembly back in the heat shield I had previously used, it's made of the same stuff as the header wrap only tube shaped. Time will tell if it holds :p
 

BYAIC

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Reviving this thread because I got the P1719 code today, popped up right when I started the car! It drove fine and reversed fine. I had the dealership test my battery and it came back as Good. I haven’t put it back in the car yet, tomorrow. Other than a Borla cat back and a K&N filter this car is stock. The Borlas are dipping down somewhat.

Can someone tell me which fuse(s) to check? And any other info on resolving this efficiently please. Thanks in advance.
 
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BYAIC

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Well I pulled the pas side sill off, been meaning to do that anyway to adjust the Borla length and realign it. But I just see an O2 sensor with wires that seem to be fine. I think I could have accessed the sensor without removing the side sill.

So anyway I’m going to do the driver side tomorrow, same issue with the Borla needing adjustment and retightening. I’m assuming I’m going to find a nice O2 sensor there too. My Yellow shift light does come on - in 1st gear only and randomly, so I’m assuming it’s not a fuse. Can you folks tell me what this solenoid is, where it is located, and should I replace it? I was getting a weird CEL code for a drivers O2 sensor randomly, but it kept clearing itself after 2-3 short drives and I haven’t seen it for months. This one though seems to be real.
 
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BYAIC

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OK, my dealership is way behind and they don’t have a skip shift solenoid anyway (only 1 in the country!) so I hooked up a scanner and was surprised to see my rear O2 sensor CEL shows on the scanner along with what it calls the 2-3 gear lock out solenoid “circuit.” Is it safe to assume it is actually a bad O2 sensor causing my CEL? It was mentioned earlier in this thread that they share a common fuse. The car shifts as normal and drives as normal.

There are no MOPAR O2 sensors available locally. Would a Bosch work just as well?
 

BYAIC

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Just to wrap this, for me at least, there are animal damaged wires to the shift solenoid. The O2 sensor needs to be replaced as well; I will be using Bosch.
 

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