Viper Car Alarm Problem

[sbviper]

I have a 98 GTS and the car alarm doesn't work quite right anymore. The car locks and beeps the horn while locking like it supposed to, but if I try and open the door, trunk, or hood without unlocking it the alarm doesn't go off. I have also noticed that the alarm light isn't blinking. It seemed to happen around the same time I had to replace the battery, but that may just be a coincidance. Anyone have any ideas what is wrong and what I have to do to fix it?

 

[costanZo]

I have a 98 GTS and the car alarm doesn't work quite right anymore. The car locks and beeps the horn while locking like it supposed to, but if I try and open the door, trunk, or hood without unlocking it the alarm doesn't go off. I have also noticed that the alarm light isn't blinking. It seemed to happen around the same time I had to replace the battery, but that may just be a coincidance. Anyone have any ideas what is wrong and what I have to do to fix it?

I had a problem with my 96 GTS car alarm yesterday; except on the control/keychain after I pressed the lock button I could not unlock it with the remote. I had to open up the rear hatch and press the security button to open the door; however the driver's side one doesn't work, but the passenger side does. I managed to move my way from the passenger side into the drivers side seat which was a real pain and a tight squeeze haha.. and even then the alarm kept going off as I was in the car and I could still not open up the drivers side door from the inside so I was basically locked in my own car haha and every time I started the car the brain of the alarm system would kill the engine which is a good thing. Obviously since I just got the car yesterday this was all new to me though; but I understand how the alarm system works but could not understand how there was no other way to deactivate it without the remote. What if I dropped the remote in a pond; is there no other way to deactivate the alarm? anyways, luckily I called Chuck Tator and he told me I had to open up the remote and see if I could see anything that didn't look right such as the tiny little prongs. I was at Prosound the place where I'm getting my Audio equipment installed and one of the guys took a look at my remote and opened it up and bent one of the prongs inside upwards and from doing that the remote was fixed. I was able to unlock the car and drive it again. I plan on getting a compustar alarm system put in; but I need to find out how easy or hard it is to go around the current alarm system that is already stock in the Viper..

So most importantly... is the actual remote the ONLY way to lock and unlock the car? I really don't understand this concept because if the remote is lost you are screwed.... It seems like the Rear hatch is the only thing you can unlock on the car with a key..

 

[Bobpantax]

I have a 98 GTS and the car alarm doesn't work quite right anymore. The car locks and beeps the horn while locking like it supposed to, but if I try and open the door, trunk, or hood without unlocking it the alarm doesn't go off. I have also noticed that the alarm light isn't blinking. It seemed to happen around the same time I had to replace the battery, but that may just be a coincidance. Anyone have any ideas what is wrong and what I have to do to fix it?

1. Follow the owner's manual procedure for resynchronizing the clicker with the alarm system.

2. If that does not work, even though you say you put a new battery in the car, check the battery wire connections. If they are tight, check the battery itself. A dying battery causes alarm system malfunctions.

3. As for the other poster's question, the only way is to pop the rear hatch and reach through and open the door. The 99 has a lever to pull just for this purpose. I do not know whether the 98 has the lever. Also, there is a place, at least in the 99 Viper, in the small center console area, to insert a key and turn off the alarm.

 

[costanZo]

Also, there is a place, at least in the 99 Viper, in the small center console area, to insert a key and turn off the alarm.

Could you take a picture of this please? That is if you own a 99 Viper..

That way when I get home later I can look for myself in my 96 to see if I have it as well. If it does that would be great!

 

[Steve-Indy]

Key area in console did not appear til model year 1998.

 

[costanZo]

Key area in console did not appear til model year 1998.

Yup.. noticed this yesterday when my friend showed me his in his 2000 GTS

 

[Red Shift]

I have a 98 GTS and the car alarm doesn't work quite right anymore. The car locks and beeps the horn while locking like it supposed to, but if I try and open the door, trunk, or hood without unlocking it the alarm doesn't go off. I have also noticed that the alarm light isn't blinking. It seemed to happen around the same time I had to replace the battery, but that may just be a coincidance. Anyone have any ideas what is wrong and what I have to do to fix it?

I have the same problem on my 96 GTS. Did you ever find a solution? I've checked the fuse block by the driver's knee area and the PDC (power distribution center) fuse block on jump starting area and everything looks fine. How is this fixed?

 

[Red Shift]

I tried everything I could (check fuses and reprogram FOB) before calling The Wizard - I know he's very busy so I don't like to bother him.

Sharing Wizard Knowledgery:
He said when pressing the lock button the red dash LED should light for a few seconds and then the horn will chirp later once the system is armed. When I press the lock button, the doors lock but no red LED nor horn chirp later. He said this is because the system checks 4 switches before arming:

1. Hood
2&3. Both doors
4. Trunk lid

If any of the switches do not give the closed signal the system will not arm. I tested the hood switch by holding down the plunger and hitting lock on the fob. This is the 1st test to do because it's easy and a common problem as the hood can change position over time. I even tested the switch throughout the position range and no dice. This means it's likely one of the door or trunk switches. The Wizard said those can be tested using a DRB tool and opening/closing the doors/trunk to see them work.

Thanks for the help Chuck!

I'm in Houston and looking for a place to bring it by. I've never gone to a dealership other than to pick up parts. Any suggestions?

Afterthought:
It's likely a door switch because my power mirrors are twitchy. Sometimes they don't move the mirror at all! I hear this can be a common problem because the wires get pinched/twisted going into the door?

 

[dave6666]

I've also had to replace the window switches themselves (in the dash console area) for poor or intermittent window operation. But in your case the door wiring sounds like a starting point too.

 

[Bobpantax]

It is not unusual for one or more of the wires in the door wire bundle of a Gen II car to break. It happened twice with my former 1999 Gen IIthat I owned until 2006. You need to access the bundle and check each wire to see if it needs splicing, etc.

 

[Red Shift]

My driver's side window is weak. Often I have to start rolling it down with the door open or push it down some while hitting the switch on the highway. Gotta be smooth so the passenger doesn't notice!

 

[Bobpantax]

My driver's side window is weak. Often I have to start rolling it down with the door open or push it down some while hitting the switch on the highway. Gotta be smooth so the passenger doesn't notice!

The wire associated with that function is probably partially severed. By positioning the door, you are also positioning the wire bundle and the wire inside the bundle thereby getting somewhat better electrical contact. Have a tech carefully check your wire bundle.

 

[Red Shift]

The wire associated with that function is probably partially severed. By positioning the door, you are also positioning the wire bundle and the wire inside the bundle thereby getting somewhat better electrical contact. Have a tech carefully check your wire bundle.

I've adjusted my door position before. I remember it had the problem before too. I've got the service manual open and I'm diving into the driver door bundle. I'm inexperienced tracing electrical problems. I plan to use a multimeter to test continuity if I can get at the ends of the wires. Any suggestions for tracing the problem?

I'm open to taking it somewhere in town that has a DRB. I'm hesitant to pay an exorbitant amount for them to plug in the DRB and test the switches. That's a 10 minute job and I'll gladly pay for time, but if they're wanting a standard $100 check. Not gonna happen.

DRB Fee: I've called three dealerships in my area. They're quoting the standard rate of $100 to hook up the machine. What's your experience with it? Maybe there's a reasonable dealership somewhere around here.