Water methanol injection problem

[Got Venom]

I took a friend for a quick run in the Roe Supercharged Viper yesterday, and I noticed that when I primed the Water **** pump, I did not see the green light. So I figured I must have bumped the switch under the dash off or something. So I reached down and pushed the button once, and still nothing. then I noticed that the vent was closed, and the light could not be seen inside the vent, So I revved the car and the light came on. Then I pushed the button, and the light still came on??? Now I was not sure if this on off switch was doing anything. So I got on it, and two runs to 110 it was fast. The I started to drive home, and it sounded like a volkswagen, like I was running on 7 or 8 cylinders??? I get home, and see that those two runs emptied half of the windshield washer bottle of the boost juice I had just topped off before our run. This is way too much, so did I foul or blow up some plugs? Also, is there multiple settings for how much the injection system will put out? I'm going to go pull some plugs soon. I just want to know why so much mixture was shot out of the bottle this time???

 

[Mr Hemi Head]

So you are using the windshield washer bottle as the W/M tank? I know the Roe tank is pretty ugly but the capacity is needed to feed the V10.
I use about a 1.5 gal per tank of fuel driving gently.
The W/M pump speed is VEC controlled, a solid light indicates maximum delivery.

Are you using a Roe stock program card? Are you using a A/F meter to determine if the tune is correct?

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

As far as I know the little green button is NOT an ON/OFF switch, it is a momentary prime button. The only way to turn the W/M "off" is with the VEC2 (or disconnecting power). Either way, the green button does not affect normal operation in any way (at least on my car).

 

[Got Venom]

I took out all of the plugs, and the 2 plugs nearest the driver on the driver side were weird. The one closest to the driver was white as though it was not firing. The one in front of it was black and the ceramic cone was broken and the electrode was touching the center pin. They also were the stock plugs in those 2 cylinders. I have been using cooler Bosch plugs that DC Motorsports put in. I don't know why Valaya Racing put back 2 stock plugs in those cylinders. I went out after changing those two, and the car seems to run fine. I got on it just a little a few times, but not enough to use the Water/****, and when I came back sure enough none had been used up??? So I need to find out exactly what that push button is for. Maybe it is a primer button, and that is why so much was used up. Since I was pushing it so much???

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

Maybe it is a primer button, and that is why so much was used up. Since I was pushing it so much???

If you pushed it ALOT....yep, especially since you're using the realtively small tank. And yes...it is just a prime button. It does absolutely nothing if left alone, and only activates the pump when pushed (for the duration of said push).

About the plugs....never know what happens when plugs are mixed. Rear plugs (on my car) typically run darker than the front ones. Since the VEC2 upgrade (Thanks for the urging from Joseph Dell) I have seen dramatic improvement.

 

[Mr Hemi Head]

You are correct that is a primer button and it's not necessary to push it.
The W/M pump should be running most of the time even while cruising but at very low rpms. Usually the light is visible only at WOT.

Something may have hit the plug, possibly a cracked piston. A bore scope inspection would be necessary to determine this.

 

[Camfab]

I was wondering how long it would be before I started hearing issues with these injection units. You tune your car with these units and when they fail, and they will fail, your motor goes south. This is especially going to hold true with non forged cars. I used one of these on my blown small block 20 years ago. My biggest issue back then was corrosion. I ended up eliminating it after a couple of months. This technology is like history, somebody reinvents it every twenty years like it's never been done before. It's just a band aid for an improperly designed system.

My feeling is, lose the system and run your car on good gas for your tune. If you don't want to do that, then lower your boost. If your plug is broken, you probably hurt the motor. Either way, good luck.

 

[plumcrazy]

You tune your car with these units and when they fail, and they will fail, your motor goes south

i agree and dont most of these WM units have those cheesy plastic tubes that can easily burn.? i dont like the idea myself. id get a good,solid tune on pump gas and be done with it.

 

[Mr Hemi Head]

You tune your car with these units and when they fail, and they will fail, your motor goes south

i agree and dont most of these WM units have those cheesy plastic tubes that can easily burn.? i dont like the idea myself. id get a good,solid tune on pump gas and be done with it.

Unlike the W/M systems of the past the Roe W/M pump is controlled by the VEC2. The amount of water injected (tuning parameters) is based on engine rpm and manifold pressure.

But stuff happens, tank runs dry, pumps fail, nozzle clogs etc. It is imperative to monitor A/F, but it's no gaurantee against engine failure.

This is not a plug and play system IMHO.

 

[Got Venom]

Thanks guys,

I feel pretty stupid now, because I was told that the button under my dash was an on/off button. I would usually prime the system by just revving a bit in neutral to see the light come on before I would go WOT. Since the vent was closed, I did not see the little green light at first. In any case, this is the second time in about 1,500 miles that a plug on the driver side has broken. Not sure last time if it was the same plug or not. But this time it was the plug 2nd from the driver on the driver side??? Should I do a compression check on that cyl? If there was something wrong with that cylinder, wouldn't I know it ? Smoke , weird colored oil, rough running???