Weldon fuel pump quit on me

GTSnake

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I have the Weldon db 2025-a pump. This is supposed to be a heavy duty race pump. It's like $700! I've only had it for about 3-4 years and less than 10k miles on it. Is that what you get for $700? Is that normal for a "high quality" pump to quit this soon? At this rate I'll need to replace it every few yrs???:dunno:

I have the dial a flow installed but ran it full on most of the time. Did that wear it out that much faster?
 

v10kingsnake

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You need to step up to the triple in tank setup. Technology has shown this to be the better setup. I think every tuner today is doing it this way.
 

LS6 Molester

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i have a brand new weldon 2345a fule pump for sale if you need it. in the box and everything :)
 

Joseph Dell

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Send it back to Weldon to see if they will either a) rebuild it for free, or b) rebuild it. Sure, it's easy to say 'just go with an in-tank set-up' but the cost to change/modify your fuel lines might not justify it. I've run the 2345 for 4+ years w/o incident. As long as your tank was vented, you shouldn't have issues and Weldon may fix it for you.

my .02 (and not associated w/ Weldon in any way)
 
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GTSnake

GTSnake

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Just an update. After exhaustive diagnostic labor it wasn't the pump that was the problem. I connected the pump directly to the battery and it ran fine. I determined it was a short somewhere because I kept blowing fuses. After running up and down each and every wire and finding no kinks or breaks I decided to hook up the Weldon dial a flow directly to the battery. It sparked immediately and smoke started under the cover of the dial a flow. When I took it apart I found a nut lodged under the PCB. I couldn't figure how a nut would get in there until I noticed that one of the connections not being used had a screw in it but no nut on the inside. Obviously over time it worked itself loose and fell into the PCB. Now when I hook everything up no blown fuses.

I haven't got the car running yet because I need to get another dial a flow on Monday. Although I really don't need it since I run full out all the time anyway. But I can't figure out how to wire the pump without the dial a flow.
 

Qualitywires.com

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Just an update. After exhaustive diagnostic labor it wasn't the pump that was the problem. I connected the pump directly to the battery and it ran fine. I determined it was a short somewhere because I kept blowing fuses. After running up and down each and every wire and finding no kinks or breaks I decided to hook up the Weldon dial a flow directly to the battery. It sparked immediately and smoke started under the cover of the dial a flow. When I took it apart I found a nut lodged under the PCB. I couldn't figure how a nut would get in there until I noticed that one of the connections not being used had a screw in it but no nut on the inside. Obviously over time it worked itself loose and fell into the PCB. Now when I hook everything up no blown fuses.

I haven't got the car running yet because I need to get another dial a flow on Monday. Although I really don't need it since I run full out all the time anyway. But I can't figure out how to wire the pump without the dial a flow.

You could get a heavy duty relay and hook it up that way. Connect a power source that turns on when you turn on your car to the relay and you should be good to go.
 
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GTSnake

GTSnake

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I just wired the pump directly to the stock power wire through the relay that came with the dial a flow and grounded it to the chassis. It turns on for a second at start up and runs full on now.

I'm back in the saddle again! :headbang:
 

FE 065

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So when are we going to see some drag strip results from that TT??
 
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