If anyone of you have looked at the way the pedal assembly is on the vipers, you will see that the bushings that hold the clutch in place is fairly flimsy and weak. I think eventually you will get side to side play in the clutch pedal like I did in my Gen 1. Where can I pick up a set of pedal bushings for future use? Do you have any idea what size they are too?
Where can I get the bushings for the pedal assembly?
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GTSnake
Enthusiast
Ab,
Does your clutch pedal have a lot of play fore aft when it's not engaged? Mine has quite a bit of play and I think it's because of a worn bushing.
Does your clutch pedal have a lot of play fore aft when it's not engaged? Mine has quite a bit of play and I think it's because of a worn bushing.
not as of right now, but I know it will in the future. It's just a matter of time and wear before it happens. The bushings are very thin so wear and tear will eventually eat them up.
I know first hand because of my 1994 I had.
I know first hand because of my 1994 I had.
joe117
Enthusiast
When I bought my 94 it had 104k miles. One of the things I needed to replace was the pedal assembly. The bushings were worn out.
I don't remember how much the new assembly cost. Had I been doing the work myself, I know I could have rebuilt the assembly but I had the dealer replace it along with $5k of other mechanical work.
If it is an expensive assembly, any decent fabricating shop should be able to make whatever parts are needed to rebuild the unit.
I would be surprised if the bushings are available.
I don't remember how much the new assembly cost. Had I been doing the work myself, I know I could have rebuilt the assembly but I had the dealer replace it along with $5k of other mechanical work.
If it is an expensive assembly, any decent fabricating shop should be able to make whatever parts are needed to rebuild the unit.
I would be surprised if the bushings are available.
RobHook
Enthusiast
I just ordered these bushings a few months ago and finally installed them last night. The dealer I got them from said they'd been in his inventory since 1979 so apparently they've been used on Chrysler products for a LONG time. The part number is 2-2467770. These things are very flimsy and I can't believe they'd use them for something as important as the clutch. Dan Cragin can machine the old shaft to use bronze bushings but I think he charges somewhere in the neighborhood of $550.
Anyway, installing them is pretty straight forward if you know what you're doing and are fairly flexible. You kinda have to lay upside down in driver's seat the entire time and there is very little clearance when you're doing this job so it's a difficult job from that perspective.
Here's the procedure:
1. Looking under the dash above the pedals you'll see a large sheet metal "box" that holds the shaft and other things in place. Remove all the wiring and relays attached to that box first so you have room to work.
2. On the right hand side of the shaft is a 15mm nut. Use a 10 mm open-end wrench to hold the opposite end of the shaft still and remove the nut.
3. Drive the shaft to the left until the end of the shaft is flush with the hole in the pedal box. Don't drive it any further as it's a real pain to realign this shaft if you push it through further and allow it to slip out of the hole. Conceptually it's simple but mine was a real problem.
4. On the left hand side of the shaft (where you were holding it with the 10mm wrench) is an e-clip. Remove that clip with a pair of needle nose pliers (it's not easy. You may want to get an e-clip remover to help with this.)
5. Once the e-clip is removed, push the shaft back to the right and the clutch pedal should be able to slide to the left far enough to be removed from the shaft. You should see the bushing in the clutch pedal or stuck to the shaft. Be careful during this step that you don't break the clutch shaft retaining clip that connects it to the clutch master cylinder. If you do, the part number is in the parts manual with the clutch master cylinder. (don't have the parts manual handy) and they're available from the dealer. This is another extremly flimsy part I'd like to engineer out of existence.
6. Remove the old bushing and install the new one. Reverse the above procedure.
Mine was nowhere near this easy but I took a great deal of it apart unecessarily. If someone had explained it to me this way my 4 hour job would've been a 1 hour job. My clutch still hits on the master cylinder bracket ever so slightly so I'm going to take some other steps to correct this too. It's nowhere near as bad as it was though.
--Rob
Anyway, installing them is pretty straight forward if you know what you're doing and are fairly flexible. You kinda have to lay upside down in driver's seat the entire time and there is very little clearance when you're doing this job so it's a difficult job from that perspective.
Here's the procedure:
1. Looking under the dash above the pedals you'll see a large sheet metal "box" that holds the shaft and other things in place. Remove all the wiring and relays attached to that box first so you have room to work.
2. On the right hand side of the shaft is a 15mm nut. Use a 10 mm open-end wrench to hold the opposite end of the shaft still and remove the nut.
3. Drive the shaft to the left until the end of the shaft is flush with the hole in the pedal box. Don't drive it any further as it's a real pain to realign this shaft if you push it through further and allow it to slip out of the hole. Conceptually it's simple but mine was a real problem.
4. On the left hand side of the shaft (where you were holding it with the 10mm wrench) is an e-clip. Remove that clip with a pair of needle nose pliers (it's not easy. You may want to get an e-clip remover to help with this.)
5. Once the e-clip is removed, push the shaft back to the right and the clutch pedal should be able to slide to the left far enough to be removed from the shaft. You should see the bushing in the clutch pedal or stuck to the shaft. Be careful during this step that you don't break the clutch shaft retaining clip that connects it to the clutch master cylinder. If you do, the part number is in the parts manual with the clutch master cylinder. (don't have the parts manual handy) and they're available from the dealer. This is another extremly flimsy part I'd like to engineer out of existence.
6. Remove the old bushing and install the new one. Reverse the above procedure.
Mine was nowhere near this easy but I took a great deal of it apart unecessarily. If someone had explained it to me this way my 4 hour job would've been a 1 hour job. My clutch still hits on the master cylinder bracket ever so slightly so I'm going to take some other steps to correct this too. It's nowhere near as bad as it was though.
--Rob
Larry Macedo
Enthusiast
One aspect you may want to check is the shaft where it meets the pedal bracket. If the bushings wear out and the issue isn't addressed immediately, the shaft will eventually elongate the hole on the bracket and new bushings won't correct the problem. We've had cases where cars with less than 30K miles clocked had bushings worn so badly that the bracket needed replacement or repair.
RobHook
Enthusiast
Actually, I worked on this again recently as the clutch pedal started rubbing again. The bushings on my car don't go through the clutch box at all so they'd have no effect on whether the hole elongates or not. I'd imagine all of them are the same, at least the Gen I's.
I ended up modifying mine to use an actual bearing. This is a permanent solution to a problem that will probably happen to ALL Vipers at some point. I took plenty of pictures and took careful notes and hope to upload a how-to soon. I may also do this as a service for people since it does take some equipment that some Viper owners may not have.
--Rob
I ended up modifying mine to use an actual bearing. This is a permanent solution to a problem that will probably happen to ALL Vipers at some point. I took plenty of pictures and took careful notes and hope to upload a how-to soon. I may also do this as a service for people since it does take some equipment that some Viper owners may not have.
--Rob
Rob,
please do a write up! Thanks!
please do a write up! Thanks!
prodiver
VCA Member
I have replaced those damn cheep ass bushings 3 times in the last year and a half and they are starting to go again. They are a pain in the ass to replace. Very poor design.
RobHook
Enthusiast
Prodiver, I would bet that the pedal box itself is the real problem. Take the whole thing out and see of the hole the shaft goes through is elongated. There's not bushing there and the shaft just rubs right up against the pedal box wearing the hole. The clutch pedal then moves from side to side very freely.
--Rob
--Rob
JWVIPER
VCA Member
I have a lot of play in my 95 clutch pedal in fact so much that in order to engage the safety switch to start the car I have push the clutch slightly to the right, will these bushings fix this problem ??
ohiodoc
Enthusiast
yes, I just did mine, You can get them from dodge. Really cheep but kinda time consuming to install. Our local viper tech did mine.
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