Re: Why Don\'t We Have..............
Jay,
Here is some info on some frequently asked questions:
SPARK PLUGS
Champion - RC12LYC
Gap to .038
Here is the breakdown for the Champion part number:
R= 14mm Thread, Gasket seat
C= 3/4 Inch Reach
12= Heat Range
E or LY= Projected Tip
C= Copper Core
CC= Double Copper (Copper core AND Copper Cored Ground Electrode)
FIRING ORDER
Driver side:
1-9 odd
Passenger side:
2-10 even
Champion “Regular Class” - Traditional #RC12LYC (what’s in there from Mopar)
Champion “Super Class” - Single Platinum #3034
Platinum center electrode, resistor plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex head, .290 core nose projection, copper core. **
Champion “Premium Class” - Premium Gold #2412
Gold Paladium performance plug, resistor plug, 18mm, .460" reach, taper seat, 13/16" hex head, extended electrode gap & core nose projection. **
Gold palladium - Gold is an excellent conductor of electricity, which makes it well suited for a performance plug. However gold is also a very soft metal, therefore the gold alloy is mixed with palladium, (a much harder metal), to form a premium fine wire performance plug with increased ignitability and durability.
Autolite Single Platinum #AP985 **
Autolite Double Platinum #APP985 **
Bosch PLATINUM #4203 **
Bosch PLATINUM+2 #4308 **
Bosch PLATINUM+4 #4428 **
Bosch SUPER PLUG #FR9HC **
Denso 5018 QJ16HR-U
GAP .035
** It is still not suggested that platinum plugs be used on vehicles with nitrous injection (from Champion’s website)
There have been instances where the platinum tip has lost its bond to either the center or ground electrode when they were used in a motor with nitrous.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug.
A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase.
In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite one another.
For domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug.
For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Remember, CHAMPION PLUGS GET HOTTER THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, COLDER THE LOWER THE NUMBER.
Say you are starting with a RCJ7Y
if you want a COLDER plug, you would use RCJ6Y
if you want a HOTTER plug, you would use RCJ8Y
Here is the breakdown for the Champion part number:
R= 14mm Thread, Gasket seat
C= 3/4 Inch Reach
12= Heat Range
E or LY= Projected Tip
C= Copper Core
CC= Double Copper (Copper core AND Copper Cored Ground Electrode)
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/sparkplug411_champion.asp
BUYING A USED VIPER - What to Look For
1. What dealer was the Viper originally or last purchased from?
2. What is the current mileage?
3. Is it still under factory warranty? (what was the "in service" date?) Extended / Transferable warranty?
4. Is the original window sticker available?
5. Do you have any of the original sales documentation?
6. What type of maintenance and / or repairs have been done to the car? (Records?)
7. Who performed / performs the repairs / maintenance?
8. When was the last service performed and what did it entail?
9. Does it have the stock radio?
10. Is there ANY curb rash on ANY of the wheels?
11. Has the car been driven in the rain? (cleanliness of the underside and wheel wells)
12. Are there equal gaps at the bottom sides of the hood, where the hood sides meet the top of the rocker panel? (just behind the front wheels) Pictures?
13. Are there equal gaps at the front "leading edge" sides of the hood where it meets the front bumper? (outermost front edge, towards the rear of the headlights) Pictures?
14. Are there ANY scrapes to the front spoiler? (under the car, black lip spoiler)
15. Are there ANY scrapes to the front fascia? (body colored front end, underneath)
16. Under the front of the car, have the leading or front portion of the front frame rails been scraped / bottomed out?
17. Are there any scratches, dents, scrapes to the inside door jambs (black painted areas)?
18. Are there any scrapes, dings, chips, etc to the rocker panel sides OR their undersides?
19. Does the A/C blow cold?
20. Do all switches and accessories operate properly?
21. Are there any fine cracks or surface spider-webbing cracks in / on the hood?
22. Will the hood stay up on its own?
23. Are the side bolsters of the seats (drivers in particular) showing any wear?
24. Do the doors close cleanly and flush and open without "dropping down" / sagging when opening? (sign of weak hinges)
25. Is the Viper garage kept?
26. Why are you selling?
27. What is your age?
28. What major city are you near?
BUYING A USED VIPER - A Primer
Here is a general list of questions. It does not have
year-specific questions, for example, for the 98 whether it has the upgraded fan. It does have a few RT/10 specific questions though. Hopefully this can be of help to others.
Used Viper Questions:
General:
1.Year?
2. Price?
3. Mileage?
4. Clean title?
5. VIN #?
6. Existing lien?
7. In service date?
Equipment:
1. Stock / original, or minor / moderate modifications (K&N filters, smooth tubes)
(headers, hi-flow cats, cat-back system, or more?)
Rear wing?
2. Exterior and Interior Color? (Body stripes - painted or vinyl) Interior mods?
3. Nature of radio / CD player (stock, single in-dash, trunk player, etc.)?
4. Soft-top, hardtop, or both? Condition of each
5. Bag for soft-top?
6. Bikini top and bag
7. Tonneau cover? Side windows? (Gen1)
8. Car cover?
9. Existing Factory warranty / extended warranty (or provide after-market warranty)?
Condition:
1. General overall condition (any nicks, chips, scratches, window cracks, etc.)?
2. Involved in an accident(s), damaged, repainted, (telltale signs) etc.?
3. Condition under front bumper / front lip spoiler?
4. Condition of top(s)? (Soft-top sagging? Exterior condition?) Scratches on sport bar? Sport Bar cap missing?
5. How maintained? Records? (One owner? How many and how long) Documentation / Paperwork? DOCUMENTATION AND HISTORY of maintenance and sale(s) / owner(s)
6. Leather condition? (Split/cracked/worn?)
7. Tire condition? Brand/Size (Reasonable tread?)
8. Wheels (condition, nicks, curb rash?) Stock wheels for the particular year or aftermarket
9. Carpet / Floor mats condition?
10. Smoker / non-smoker?
11. Nitrous or other power adder used?
12. Used for track events (strip, track, Viper Days and autocross)?
13. Condition of the rocker panels (top and underside, chips, yellowing, sandblasted)
14. Condition of inside the door / rocker area
15. Scrapes under front bumper / spoiler?
16. Bottomed out?
17. 998 / 999 recall work done (if applicable) and done CORRECTLY. Documented?
18. Head gaskets (Gen1) Documentation?
19. Hood alignment (symmetrical?) Any hairline cracks? Hinges keep hood up?
20. Doors close well (no drooping / sagging-bad hinges)
Buying from a dealer
1. Processing fees?
2. Taxes? (out of state?)
3. Delivery
Differences between GenI and GenII: there are other differences (besides the exhaust) that stand out:
1. The engine
The majority of reference to “GenI and GenII” refers to engine changes, as there are several differences between the two engines, not the least of which is horsepower. GenI was rated at 400hp, later GenI (96) were rated at 415, and the GenII is rated at 450 (ACR & GT2 rated at 460 due to smooth tubes and filters).
2. The hood
The GenI cars have "smoothie" hoods with no NACA duct between the headlights and no vents above the wheel wells. The cars look different from the front with these changes.
3. Suspension
Changed to GenII suspension in 96. Both the GTS and RT have the same GenII components.
4. Exhaust
Went to rear exit exhaust in 1996
5. Other changes
Power windows, airbags, steering wheel, method of opening the doors, differential housing, CD player, speedometer, wheels, all changed from GenI to GenII
ABS added in 2001
Forged pistons deleted in 2000
Lumpy cam deleted in 2000
What happens if I crash my car 
