'06 w/ very poor performance ... HELP

[pugads651]

delete the cats and run o2 simulators problem solved.

 

[iron]

Please see below ... thanks.

 

[iron]

Please tell me how to convince a dealership ... with the car under warranty.

I just want this dealer to hurry up and fix my car and get it back to me (too much money spent sitting there ... and them giving me 3 different time-frames for that to occur ... each one later than the last, of course).

 

[Viper Specialty]

iron- give me a call when you get a chance. I'll go over this with you and try my best to help you out, as well as run a check for associated parts and find out the REAL story.

Having an o2 go bad and take a cat with it isnt out of the question, but certainly rare. If I were you, I would make a trip to the dealership armed with some info I can give you, and state your case, and look at the parts first hand. Warranty or not- dont let them step on you because its "free".

A bad converter substrate will be VISUALLY damaged and can be inspected. To hell with what the computer says at this point. In the oddball case it just had bad efficiency and popped a code, it would NOT impact driveability whatsoever. A bad upstream O2 would be a more likely culprit, though I suspect your issue may be in the fuel system, which can also be tested and conclusively diagnosed very easily-- and also can show up as issues in other systems as it is not a monitored system.

Either way, the aftermarket can get you back on the road if Dodge cant. Bad Cats? Random tech time. Cat efficiency problem only? SCT Flash tool will remove those monitors from the system, and make other worthwhile changes in the process. Fuel Pump? I am sure we could dig one up somehow. Need an O2 sensor? I have 1 new one in stock, and hell, I'll sell you the ones right off my own car if you want them... I'm not driving it anyway!

In any case, give me a call.

 

[iron]

Please see below - thanks.

 

[iron]

Thanks Dan. I called back to tell you they were still there, but not the Asst Mgr who I had dealt with. Production Mgr was there and said he knew nothing about it.

Ron

 

[Viper Specialty]

Thanks Dan. I called back to tell you they were still there, but not the Asst Mgr who I had dealt with. Overall Service Mgr was there and said "I know nothing" about it.

Car was completely dead (from sitting) which means they must not have addressed the BCM as I asked them to about 10 times. I am supposed to get a call in the AM. I told them everything you said about an order or protocol for checking things. Parts should have LONG been there by now already (9 days). Serv Mgr told me he once waited on a headliner for 3 months and laughed. I said I CANNOT wait forever ... and for a fix that may or may not be appropriate ... or a cure.

Maroone of Coconut Creek (greater Ft Laud), FL. They have a decent reputation ... and have been ok to me at other dealership. Seemed more apathy than contrived or purposeful. Still I've had enough with it sitting there.

Is there not a recourse for me to tell them to bypass cats or something to get car running right again and give back to me ... at least until other parts come in? Or so they can diagnose it properly by seeing if that fixes it. I am afraid they will leave me hanging for WAY MORE TIME ... and now it will not start (of course), because I told them countless times it kills the battery within a couple days as it did another brand new battery (BCM ... BCM).

I think I have the right to DEMAND they do something like that to it ... AND TODAY ... to see if there is another fuel issue like the pump, or an injector leaking, etc. Then, that can be addressed and they can also replace the BCM and let me have my car back - HELP.

Ron

Definitely have them check the other issues first... its not like they have the new cat assembly to put in anyway. They may as well insure that the issue isnt elsewhere as to further delay you!

BCM: BCM's are a pain, you cannot just "order" one. The dealership needs to put in a claim for one, Chrysler has to OK it, then it gets sent to the dealership to be installed, and then Chrysler demands the old one back in short order. Expect to be held up on this fix...

Battery: Once you get it replaced however, make sure you replace your battery as well. A battery that has been dead as often as you claim yours is has permanent damage, it will never be the same. I recomend an Optima Yellow Top, it has a LOT more CCA than the stock battery, much longer reserve capacity, and is more immune to being run down and being damaged. Well worth the 200 bucks out of pocket.

Cats: You really dont have any recourse for bypassing the cat. To do so would technically be illegal, and no way would a dealership do this. (gutting the converters). An easier, albeit more expensive approach would be to use Random Tech Cats... They have some performance advantages, as well as reduced footwell heat and a little weight loss.

Thanks,

 

[iron]

Thanks Dan. I assumed much of what you just said (like that they would not by-pass the cats. I did not know they were that way about the BCM's but ... ok.

Thanks again, sorry for so much "wind".

 

[Viper Specialty]

Thanks Dan. I assumed much of what you just said (like that they would not by-pass the cats. I did not know they were so anal about the BCM's but ... ok.

Can they not give me a new battery because of the problem though (it has already cost me out-of-pocket for the other one I replaced, it should not twice ... and because of their protocol)?

I will keep it from dying by "driving it" (which I DO ... but cannot presently ... because it is sitting there). IE - they are worsening my problems.

Thanks again, sorry for so much "wind".

They can give you a new battery, assuming they will agree that yours is "bad"... thats really up to the service writers. If it holds a charge, they can say no if they want... even though you and I know its reserve capacity is effectively useless and it really is bad. Honestly though, the Mopar batteries are nothing to write home about to begin with, and Vipers eat them alive regularly.

PS- Also, any plans for VOI-10?

 

[iron]

Would love to ... depends on schedule.

 

[iron]

Is there no way to delete a post ... vs editing? Regardless, that would be my preference here.

 

[iron]

Got car back and they replaced multi-function switch ... now no turn signals or flashers.

Anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Got car back and they replaced multi-function switch ... now no turn signals or flashers.

Anyone have a suggestion?

Thanks.

Why did they replace it?

Did they fix the other issues or did you just take it back?

 

[iron]

They fixed other issues and replaced that (multi-function wand) because they said that it was shorting. It DID leave the interior light on unless you turned it entirely off so ...

They also said turn signal switch itself was shorting (I saw on the R.O. after I left) and that it also was replaced (I thought it was a part of the multi-wand).

They also said they replaced the PCM - Powertrain Control Module and said that was shorting out too.

... but now I have no turn signals nor flashers.

Any chance it is a fuse or something relatively simple I can find and resolve?

 

[Viper Specialty]

They fixed other issues and replaced that (multi-function wand) because they said that it was shorting. It DID leave the interior light on unless you turned it entirely off so ...

They also said turn signal switch itself was shorting (I saw on the R.O. after I left) and that it also was replaced (I thought it was a part of the multi-wand).

They also said they replaced the PCM - Powertrain Control Module and said that was shorting out too.

... but now I have no turn signals nor flashers.

Any chance it is a fuse or something relatively simple I can find and resolve?

What ended up being the problem with your car? Internally shorted PCM? If so, wow, thats an oddball.

First thing I would check is to see if they screwed up the connector that goes into the back of the multi-function switch. These are broken from the factory 90% of the time, and pressing the connector into the new switch may have just popped the wire(s) out of the back of the connector rather than making a connection... seen it before.

 

[iron]

I will check the connector later today when can. Thanks Dan.

I am not sure if all was a bit of a snowball with the PCM, o2 sensors, cats, etc. I will ask them if I have to address this turn signal issue through them.

Thanks for all your time, a huge help. Wish I could repay somehow. I would love to upgrade my car's performance but may turn it in as it is a lease ... and will be out of warr in 9 months and lease up in about 12.

 

[treesnake]

And to think, all this because of some bad gas...

 

[iron]

I think perhaps so ... but you all may know better as I have always had good luck with this car to date so no experiences to gauge with.

 

[iron]

Easiest way to access and/or remove the stalk (multi-purpose lever) ... to check the wiring and/or connections?

Through the cover? ... (there are a couple holes coming from bottom ... what type of screw head/size)?

Anything is appreciated, just do not want to mess up something that is already not working as I have never taken one of these off before.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Easiest way to access and/or remove the stalk (multi-purpose lever) ... to check the wiring and/or connections?

Through the cover? ... (there are a couple holes coming from bottom ... what type of screw head/size)?

Anything is appreciated, just do not want to mess up something that is already not working as I have never taken one of these off before.

2 phillips head screws, then "squeeze" the column cover as its seams, and the latches will pop apart. You will have to move the column up and down to get the halves out.

The connector is gray, right hand side. Remember top pull open the red safety lock before trying to take it apart.

 

[iron]

Re: '06 w/ no turn signals / flasher ...

The gray one on the right-hand side of the column for the turn signals/flasher Dan? There is a larger Gray one on the upper left-hand side of the column as well (I noticed that one made the open door ping when I took it apart).

Regardless, I checked essentially every one (connection) under there and none appeared compromised ... I took them all apart and just looked for a loose wire, etc.

Now I am at a loss. I should NOT have to take that back there again ... for something that was not wrong when I took it there in the first place.

What are the possibles? ... especially everything else (other than the turn signals and flashers) works.

 

[iron]

Re: '06 w/ no turn signals / flasher ...

Dan you originally said "First thing I would check is to see if they screwed up the connector that goes into the back of the multi-function switch".

The "back" of the multi-function "LEVER"? The stalk goes well into the column. I am not sure where nor how it actually detaches. I will go back and check.

 

[ViperDude]

You should start documenting all of this with not only service record copies in a binder, but also photos and VIDEO of the problems, showing on such and such a date you receive the car back and then not only weren't some problems fixed but others were created.

If you bought the car new (forget it you said you did) you're on your way to lemon law status, and could in the end have them giving you a new Viper. Long road but why not start documenting now...

 

[iron]

Took whole switch out. I did not know it was a unibody switch (meaning for other side of column too). Incredibly simple (2 screws).

Checked every wire to both connection boards that go to it (both sides' boards) and all are fine.

Must be the switch (the one that they JUST replaced).

They said I HAVE to bring it back over to have it diagnosed and that, even if it is the switch AGAIN, that no one has anywhere local and will be 3-5 days to get one ... at which time I will have to go back AGAIN. UGH.

Anyone with thoughts on whether or not switch is bad "out of the box" ... and ONLY the signals and flashers (wipers/lights, etc work).

 

[Viper Specialty]

Took whole switch out. I did not know it was a unibody switch (meaning for other side of column too). Incredibly simple (2 screws).

Checked every wire to both connection boards that go to it (both sides' boards) and all are fine.

Must be the switch (the one that they JUST replaced).

They said I HAVE to bring it back over to have it diagnosed and that, even if it is the switch AGAIN, that no one has anywhere local and will be 3-5 days to get one ... at which time I will have to go back AGAIN. UGH.

Anyone with thoughts on whether or not switch is bad "out of the box" ... and ONLY the signals and flashers (wipers/lights, etc work).

Yep, you had to take the column covers off to remove, and it is all one peice, both sides with a single connector.

If the connector is not at fault, the next thing I would check is to make sure that the flasher relays (which should be plugged into the same section you removed the switch from) were in working order and/or not missing. If those are OK, then you likely got a bad switch set... just unlucky.

 

[iron]

They just told me they found the relay on the old one (they forgot to attach it to this new unit).

They were very gracious and apologized which I appreciate.

Will let you know if fixes but I assume will.

 

[iron]

Fixed and all is ok with the world again - hahaha.

They insist the window regulators are going bad and want to change those out.

 

[ROCKET62]

What mechanic would not test the switch after replacing? Completely and totally unacceptable service.

They just told me they found the relay on the old one (they forgot to attach it to this new unit).

They were very gracious and apologized which I appreciate.

Will let you know if fixes but I assume will.

 

[treesnake]

No need for the tech to check the switch, he just put some good gas in it... Seriously, glad your going again.

 

[ssnaked]

If you have the car on Boca take it down to Mark Leslie at University Dodge. He is the best viper tech in South Fla. All Dodge dealers and viper techs are not created equal.

John
__________
06 FE Coupe
Miami