Aggravating Slow Leak

[Johann]

I've got a slow leak in one tire only but what's weird is that the leakage rate varies with the tire position. With the valve stem clocked in one particular range of arc it might leak one psi every two days but with the valve stem clocked in a different range it might take a week to leak one psi.

Does this sound more like a bead leak or a puncture? A surface "soap bubble" test (ala Windex) doesn't show any obvious leakage.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I vote for bead leak. When the bead is deformed at the bottom...

Since you know it's a matter of days, can you remove the tire, lay it flat on the ground, and fill the "groove" between the rim and rubber with soapy water all the way around? Come back in a few hours and one section will look like it has fungus (many small bubbles.) Have to check inside and outside.

While it's off, look for nails, too.

 

[plumcrazy]

what wheels are you sporting ?

 

[QUICKSRT10/SRT8]

i have the same problem in my viper truck. if it drive the truck it doesnt leak if i dont drive it for a while it goes flat hmmmm

 

[GBS]

I have the same problem with one of the rear BBS wheels on my 2002 ACR. It's a very slow leak that nobody has been able to find. I have had the tire rotated on the wheel but it didn't help. In a weeks time it looses about 10 lbs of pressure. Hopefully it's not the wheel and the problem will be resolved when I get a new set of tires.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Here's my story - bought a new 1992 Dodge full size conversion van and part of the Mark III package were aluminum wheels. After a few years I had the mystery leaks like you guys. Fought with it for a year or two. I have a tire changer, so dismounted one and saw that where the bead of the tire touches the rim was very corroded, even though the part of the wheel that was visible was good. The corrosion produced a white powder as often seen on aluminum. I cleaned the wheel, cleaned the tire and thought I was good. Eventually it came back, but at least I knew what it was. Cleaned the wheel again, clean the tire again, this time used the tire slime-goo-sealer on the bead. It's a relatively fast drying liquid that helps the tire slide onto the rim and helps the initial air sealing to pop the bead on, but also provides an airtight seal over time. Never had a problem with those wheels again, and eventually the outside looked pretty bad, too. So if you are remounting or getting new tires, ask for the tire slime-goo to be used. It doesn't hurt anything, can only help, and maybe they use it anyway.

Edit: This is "Tire Bead Sealer" made by Camel as used in tire shops. It is black, dries to very thin rubbery coating. It is not the green "tire slime" that is used to seal punctures in bicycle tires.

 

[Johann]

My wheels are the factory '97 GTS with Michelin Pilots, both front tires were replaced under a damage claim and I don't know who the insurance company had do them or I'd take it back for them to fix.

I'm aware of the black goo but I'd like to avoid it because, well.....it's gooey.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

My wheels are the factory '97 GTS with Michelin Pilots, both front tires were replaced under a damage claim and I don't know who the insurance company had do them or I'd take it back for them to fix.

I'm aware of the black goo but I'd like to avoid it because, well.....it's gooey.

Yes gooey but dries to a soft film. Any stringy drippy spills can be rubbed and roll up and off the rim or tire. And not seen from the outside.

 

[Luke@tirerack]

those pesky leaks which are not canstant more often than not can be traced back to the valve stem or valve stem core ....

 

[JayW1]

I had a similar leak and it turned out to be corrosion like Tom described. I took very fine sand paper and cleaned the areas up and then replaced the compressed air with nitrogen.

From what I am told, the compressed air is more likely to have water in it which can help contribute to the corrosion. The nitrogen is more pure and also is supposed to leak less. I haven't had any more problems in over a year.