Amplifier wiring harness

rext

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I have a high pitch "squeal" that sounds like the weather warning tone that comes on the radio occasionally on my radio all the time. This just started coincidentally with my window regulator going bad...Anyway, the squeal is over the sound of whatever is playing,radio/cd/ipod, with the car running or not. Its all factory nav unit. I am considering just changing out everything anyway,radio/amp/speakers. I am not looking to install the baddest system in the land so I was thinking of just reusing the existing speaker wires. I dont want to hack it up so was wondering if there is a female plug end for the amp end under the seat. What have you done? I have looked at a bunch of stuff and cannot get any positive fitments for this. Thanks.
 

Steve M

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I installed what's in my signature block, and ran new speaker wires since it wasn't too difficult. The Kenwood amp I used fits under the passenger seat in place of the factory amp.
 

ACRucrazy

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I am not aware of an amplifier bypass harness for the Viper. I just ran new wires from my amp into the doors and up to the dash so I did not have to cut/hack anything.

Otherwise you can pick up used OEM amps for "cheap" usually.
 

Klaus

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It's a while ago . . so plz let me try again:
Anybody aware of an "amplifier bypass harness" to the factory Gen3 viper amplifier sitting under the passenger seat ?
Two "female" plugs "fitting" the two plugs that is connected to the amp: á 14 pin comming in with power and signals (a female fitting the gray plug (the outher 4 pins being larger the the middel 10 pins) and a 16 pin (all alike) going out to the speakers (a female fitting the green plug).
The females should be like the ones on the amp.
Actually I don't care if the females are from another setup or a part of at complete other harness, as long as all terminals are with wires that has a length of at least 2 inch to solder on to the new amp harness.
Brand new females with new pins will be fine too: then I just "clip on" the wires from the new amp.
Thanks in advance.
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pokeyl

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I installed what's in my signature block, and ran new speaker wires since it wasn't too difficult. The Kenwood amp I used fits under the passenger seat in place of the factory amp.
How did you do the passenger side? Driver is easy, I can't even see the pass-through on the other side. Gen 3
 

MoparMap

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It's a while ago . . so plz let me try again:
Anybody aware of an "amplifier bypass harness" to the factory Gen3 viper amplifier sitting under the passenger seat ?
Two "female" plugs "fitting" the two plugs that is connected to the amp: á 14 pin comming in with power and signals (a female fitting the gray plug (the outher 4 pins being larger the the middel 10 pins) and a 16 pin (all alike) going out to the speakers (a female fitting the green plug).
The females should be like the ones on the amp.
Actually I don't care if the females are from another setup or a part of at complete other harness, as long as all terminals are with wires that has a length of at least 2 inch to solder on to the new amp harness.
Brand new females with new pins will be fine too: then I just "clip on" the wires from the new amp.
Thanks in advance.
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I actually did just this a little while ago. Someone hacked up my factory harness when they put in an aftermarket amp and I wanted to be able to go back to stock, so I got the connectors and terminals to put the factory ends back on and then hunted down the mating ones to be able to make an adapter style harness. I'll have to look them up though. They are Yazaki connectors, that much I remember. They were actually nice enough to send me the parts free as they don't really sell to individuals. On their website you could submit a request and one of the options was something like "repair" if I remember right.
 

MoparMap

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So I want to say it's these two connectors:


But I can't verify that at the moment. This is just what I found online that looks right from what I remember. I know I have my connectors at home somewhere, but I don't know if I still have the bags with the part numbers on them or not. I'll have to do some digging through emails and whatnot to see what I can find.

Update:

Found my old original email with part requests. This is what I originally requested
7282-6447-40 / 7282-5622-40
7282-6453-60 / 7282-5534-60
7283-6543-60 / 7283-5534-60 / 7283-5941-60
7114-4101-02
7114-4112-02
7116-4780-02

I was not able to get 7282-6453-60 or 7283-6453-60 as samples, they were qty. 100 minimum order. The slashes were potentially equivalent parts. I was going off of what I could find via datasheets and visuals, and those seemed to match the best, so I asked for all of them so I could test fit. Some of the numbers are for the connector/terminals for the harness side, not the amplifier side (I believe the third line is the harness connector and probably the last line is the terminals for it). The Yazaki site says they have a US distributor for small orders (Yazaki TTI), though they show qty 0 available of all of those numbers. It does give the option to request a sample though. The original contact I spoke with gave me this link to request samples from a different source: http://www.smdinc.com/yazsamples.php Not sure if it's still valid, but you could give it a shot. Since you only need one of each connector and enough terminals to fill it, you might be able to get enough.
 
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Klaus

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So I want to say it's these two connectors:


But I can't verify that at the moment. This is just what I found online that looks right from what I remember. I know I have my connectors at home somewhere, but I don't know if I still have the bags with the part numbers on them or not. I'll have to do some digging through emails and whatnot to see what I can find.

Update:

Found my old original email with part requests. This is what I originally requested
7282-6447-40 / 7282-5622-40
7282-6453-60 / 7282-5534-60
7283-6543-60 / 7283-5534-60 / 7283-5941-60
7114-4101-02
7114-4112-02
7116-4780-02

I was not able to get 7282-6453-60 or 7283-6453-60 as samples, they were qty. 100 minimum order. The slashes were potentially equivalent parts. I was going off of what I could find via datasheets and visuals, and those seemed to match the best, so I asked for all of them so I could test fit. Some of the numbers are for the connector/terminals for the harness side, not the amplifier side (I believe the third line is the harness connector and probably the last line is the terminals for it). The Yazaki site says they have a US distributor for small orders (Yazaki TTI), though they show qty 0 available of all of those numbers. It does give the option to request a sample though. The original contact I spoke with gave me this link to request samples from a different source: http://www.smdinc.com/yazsamples.php Not sure if it's still valid, but you could give it a shot. Since you only need one of each connector and enough terminals to fill it, you might be able to get enough.
Now THAT was VERY good info - THANKS A LOT !!!
I allready ordered a sampels of the two "MALE" connectors ("male" since they have "male" pins . . . it's not about the housing that actually is a "female" housing)
The 14 pin gray "male-pin" connector (in a "female" housing): 7282562240
The 16 pin green "male-pin" connector (in a "female" housing): 7282645360
The "small" male pins (1,5mm) are the same for each connector: 7114410002
The "large" male pins (2,8mm) for the 14 pin connector (2 x 2 outer pins): 7114411002
Looking VERY much forward the what they send me !!!
//Klaus
 

Steve M

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How did you do the passenger side? Driver is easy, I can't even see the pass-through on the other side. Gen 3
Not exactly sure what you are asking, but I'll do my best.

If you are talking about running wires from the engine bay into the cabin on the passenger side, I have not done that...only on the driver's side. The wires for my line lock, signal for my shift light, and switched power wire to run them all run through the grommet next to the brake booster. I didn't run any wires into the cabin from the engine bay for my stereo.

Speaker wires from the amp to the doors and dash were all covered with PET braided tubing first...makes pulling the wires soooo much easier.

I have a feeling I didn't answer anything you were asking about though.
 

Steve M

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It's been a while, but I remember having to do some digging to figure out where it came into the cabin.

If I recall correctly, I grabbed a piece of 14 gauge solid core copper wire (usually I'll pull a length of neutral out of NM-B, or "Romex") and feed it in through from the door side into the cabin, and then use that to fish it from the cabin back into the door.

Anything you can do to make the wire slippery will help...PET braided sleeve is a real life saver here.

This stuff:

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MoparMap

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Now THAT was VERY good info - THANKS A LOT !!!
I allready ordered a sampels of the two "MALE" connectors ("male" since they have "male" pins . . . it's not about the housing that actually is a "female" housing)
The 14 pin gray "male-pin" connector (in a "female" housing): 7282562240
The 16 pin green "male-pin" connector (in a "female" housing): 7282645360
The "small" male pins (1,5mm) are the same for each connector: 7114410002
The "large" male pins (2,8mm) for the 14 pin connector (2 x 2 outer pins): 7114411002
Looking VERY much forward the what they send me !!!
//Klaus

Glad all the work I did before might actually be useful, lol. I actually ended up putting a stock amp back into my car since I didn't really like the aftermarket setup I had going, which is what started it all. I just got the mating connectors as a fallback plan in case I couldn't find a stock amp as I much preferred the idea of keeping the factory connectors with an adapter harness vs cutting and splicing wires. I didn't think about you being overseas (at least by your profile info), which might make sourcing those connectors easier. Let me know how it works out once the parts show up for you. Would like to double check my work and make sure my numbers were correct.
 

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