Amps that will replace the OEM amp cleanly?

[Nexus-6]

I have to imagine that there are a few more beefier Alpine (or others) amps out there that will fit the stock location without any modifications.

Can anyone recommend an amp that fits the stock location using the existing mounting hardware?

Only other changes are better speakers (BA Pros up front and JL W06 subs in the back). Stock head unit and stock wiring.

Thanks!

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I have to do the same thing. I just keep putting it off. Here's a thread with some info...

Do you know what to replace [******] with?

http://[******]/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=99359&page=4&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=3

Gotta say it's pretty damn immature for this board to censor references to the other board.

 

[Nexus-6]

Cool - thanks Chuck (and yes, I agree with ya...)

So it looks like in order to replace just the amp, leaving the stock head unit, you have to pretty much find a connector that will interface between them. I'm fine with the head unit - just wanted to dump the amp but it looks like you have to run new cables in order to make that happen.

 

[SapphireGTS]

Thats the first thing I did. Stick a new headunit in. Most new alpine head units will plus right in. Run a set of RCA cables to the trunk, stick this amp in, and you have 100% better sound.

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[Tomer]

Any tricks on the best way to run a set of RCA cables to the trunk? I have heard this can be a real bear.

Tomer

 

[SapphireGTS]

You have an R/T so I dont know the best way to the trunk. I ran mine down the center to the gas tank, made a right turn when I got there then up and behind all the plastic molding. I would be curious in an r/t.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I think the RT requires drilling a hole into the trunk. Gerald SnakeBitten is the one to call. Log onto the other board and get hold of him.

 

[Nexus-6]

Hmmm....

I yanked the stock amp tonight and gave it a gander.

I wonder if a stereo shop might be able to whip up two harnesses for me (for a new amp) - one to interface with the DIN input from the head unit and another to interface with the single plug for all of the speakers so I can simply replace the amp, plug the harnesses in between the input and outputs on the thing and be done with it.

And no, I'm not interested in taking her into a shop or doing a big setup in the Viper. Kind of a waste with the environment it offers honestly (for me). I have a mega dollar system in the Lightning and I don't intend to do that again.

But, I would like to simply replace the amp in order to better drive the BA Pro Series components I installed up front and the JL subs in the back. The difference from stock is better, but they are being so underdriven that the gains are relatively minor.

 

[SapphireGTS]

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[jibran]

hey y'all,

did we ever figure this one out? i have a 00 rt/10 and wouold only like to upgrade the stereo heead if possible (to start). kinda struggling with this one as i didnt find any harness for it. would appreciate any help.

 

[Makara]

I think the RT requires drilling a hole into the trunk. Gerald SnakeBitten is the one to call. Log onto the other board and get hold of him.

If you pull the trim out, you will find a few small holes just large enough to get some plugs from the front to the rear. If I remember right, just behind and to the outide of the seats, almost shoulder height when seated, there should be a hole that will work.

 

[EA6BPilot]

I asked the same question regarding the wiring harness and this is what I found out. There is a harness that goes with a 90's era Mazda (no model specific) that fits the speaker outputs on the stock Alpine amp. The Mazda system only has 4 wires, but you can put another 4 wires to make all 4 speakers work (by adding pin connected wires). As for the power/ground wires, you can use a standard flat connector to plug into the stock harness (it's only a 2 flat connector plug).

As for the head unit, I found enough wires with pin connectors to make a connector to fit into the car's wiring harness. The guy at the shop told me to divide the pins with thin cardboard, plug them into the car's harness, and then use a hot glue gun to lock the pins in place. The glue is not an electrical conductor, so it won't cause a short in the wires. My idea to keep glue out of the car's harness was to put a thin sheet of plastic in between the pins and the car's harness until the glue dried (like saran wrap or something simliar, the key being something that won't melt). Once done, you can plug the wires in and use a plastic zip tie to keep it in place.

I don't believe you'll be able to use the stock head unit since it runs it's signal through wires vice an RCA cable (I may be wrong, so please chime in if you know a way to convert the signals).

I know this probably sounded confusing, so I'll try and take some pics of the harness I had done and what I plan to do to make a custom one. Overall, this setup will have run me between $25 and $30 for the harness and all the extra materials.

Good luck and I'll see what I can do to post some pics.

Frank