Considering purchasing a 2000 steel gray GTS

Bexar80

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As the title states, I'm considering a 2000 GTS. I would like some opinions on the car please. It is a private seller, two owner car with 43,000 miles on it. It has been a California and Texas car. I have not got the full details on the extent of the maintenance records available but will. Price aside, is a Viper with that many miles still a sound investment? I would like to keep the car 20+ yrs but also enjoy it occasionally, so the mileage will slightly increase over my ownership. There are some minor things, such as light wear on the door seals, shifter nob seems lose, and minor corrosion on the gas cover. However, it is spotless underneath and under the hood. Is the steel gray really that unique of a color for the 2000 model year? I would really appreciate any input or opinions on this car. If not this one, I'm stilling looking and hopefully will become an owner soon. :)

I hope you guys don't mind me jumping right in with a purchase question before any introduction. I know on the BMW and MB forums they seem to tire of those sort of questions from newbies. ;)
 
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RPHJR

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Only in viper land would 43k miles on a 10 year old car, be high... lol...

The answer is no... The car will run well into the sixfigure mileage any beyond... These cars are not complicated.. I know a GTS in NJ that has 150k on it.. And never been apart..
 

costanZo

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Only in viper land would 43k miles on a 10 year old car, be high... lol...

The answer is no... The car will run well into the sixfigure mileage any beyond... These cars are not complicated.. I know a GTS in NJ that has 150k on it.. And never been apart..

I believe awhile ago on this forum, I forget where...but someone who had a 96 white/blue striped Viper posted his hitting the 200,000 marker. :2tu:
 

Roffle Waffle

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Keep in mind the 2000 year is not very desirable. The 1996-1999 cars had the forged pistons + stronger cam, and ABS brakes came in 2001. They call the 2000 cars "creampuffs"
 

Dom426h

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Keep in mind the 2000 year is not very desirable. The 1996-1999 cars had the forged pistons + stronger cam, and ABS brakes came in 2001. They call the 2000 cars "creampuffs"

For someone looking for a SteelGray Viper, the year 2000 is very desirable considering it is the only year they made that color:)

So the OP dosnt get confused, We dont specifically call the 2000's creampuffs, we call all the 2000/2001/2002 creampuffs. They have a smoother running engine due to the revised cam with tighter piston tolerances. Only potential downside being that the pistons cant handle TwinTurbo Power, but there are plenty that swap pistons when doing a serious TT build anyway, and its no prob for the 90some% of us that are not running TT setups.


Roffle, what is stronger about the cam? From what i remember the fastest stock 1/4mile time is held by a 2000...
 

Fatboy 18

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Yep, as Dom says, nothing wrong with Creampuffs ;) You can put a Roe Supercharger on them without having to change the pistons, but it means you cant run a big pulley. We have members in the UK running the Roe kicking out 600bhp using the standard pistons :) I have a 2000 Red/Silver stripes Viper. Its a great car and have never been happier :2tu: Just remember to get a Car-fax and get a couple of local VCA members to take a look at it for you :drive:

GO FOR IT, Good luck
Mark.
 

Matt M PA

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I too would disagree about the "creampuffs" not being as strong as the earlier cars. The lumpy idle does not make more power.

Not only was the quickest 1/4 ET realized in a 2000...but at one time the 2000 and later Gen IIs were penalized in the Viper Days series. They run just fine, thanks.

That being said...I am partial to the Steel Grey. Very unique. Mine gets compliments everytime we take it out.
 

GreyKnight

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creampuff relative to what? another viper? if you like the 2000 viper, go for it. however 20+ years is a long time. if you have that much insight into the future, i would love to know if an aston is in my future :)
 

TAXIMAN1

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Keep in mind the 2000 year is not very desirable. The 1996-1999 cars had the forged pistons + stronger cam, and ABS brakes came in 2001. They call the 2000 cars "creampuffs"

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Steel Grey and Black/Silver stripes are both VERY desirable cars.. I had a 2000 Blk/Slvr car back in 2006. Awesome car.. The creampuff argument has been beat to death on this forum. Some of the best cars and colors were produced from 2000-2002.
 

PAvenomRT/10

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I have had a 2000 RT/10 for a number of years and love the car. Viper engineers put the newer pistons and cam in the engine for a reason, smoother running and to meet revised EPA emission standards. All Vipers are great cars including the 2000-2002 Gen II Vipers.
PAvenomRT/10
 
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Venomiss

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Check out how many were made in that color.

Then get a Viper Buyers Guide if you haven't already.
Viper Buyers Guide

Like someone said already.
Pay someone who is a viper tech that can check out the Viper before you buy it.

Another thought is contact the local VCA club where that car came from and ask if anyone knows the previous owners.
Good luck with it.
 
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Bexar80

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Thanks for all the great info, links and advice. Another question I have is what impact does having the Viper/Dodge logos deleted? I noticed but haven't inquired about it but there are no raised name plates on the car. When I initially looked at the car I could find no signs of any repaint (paint lines, edges etc.) which happens to be an area of my work so it was a very good job if so. It also seems like the doors need to be lined up better. Is that fairly common?
 

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Yes door adjustment is a fairly common problem. The main problem with a 2000 is that the older style brakes (before 2001) have only 36mm rear brake caliper pistons which makes them the worst stopping (only .8G forces) of the Vipers. Tom sells a larger piston version (40mm) rear caliper that imoproves braking to later specs (1G). Suggest that you may wish to buy a previously upgraded brake car like my (4 sale) 2000 GTS ACR.
The ad should explain details about Supercharging and reliability, hp etc.

This car is More than most people have any interest in owning with the 600rwhp from the supercharger alone. Nitrous is a "when you need it" power adder and not used for driving.

The American Club Racer/ACR cars were built from '99-'02 in the GTS bodies only. A factory race car package the ACRs were 10bhp higher rated and came with special lightweight BBS forged wheels and Koni or Dynamic fully adjustable race shocks ($12,000 value). Being a higher powered and faster GTS these ACRs are more collectable and carry a high value. If you're interested in putting on low miles you may want to rethink buying a high miler. High mileer is good for a driver that will be worn out eventually, but if you don't plan to drive it much then buy a low miler and a collector car so that in another 10-20 years you'll be able to sell at a high profit. GTS-R,s are the most collectable. My 2000 ACR Red/silver was one of only 25 built in 2000.

Ted
 

Tagoo

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It's common for the doors to sag over time - causing them to drag a little when closing. relatively easy fix to adjust the hinges where they bolt to the body. Not sure about the badges. The "DODGE" and "VIPER" are adhesive-backed emblems and do come off occasionally.

BTW. Steel gray with silver stripes is the best combo IMHO :)
 

Camfab

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Your MOST important action is to have the car checked out by DC or AC, hey wait A/C-D/C! Ok all kidding aside that's the most important action you can take. The doors will sag, but missing emblems can be a sign of a wrecked car, and a CarFax report doesn't guarantee anything. Good Luck with your purchase.
 
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Bexar80

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So even the side "Viper" lettering on the hood was an emblem? One last thing....if everything else checks out, no maintenance issues, accidents etc. Is $28,500 a "fair" price or would you guys feel it's a "really good" price considering the miles? I got the feeling from reading around the forum and web that the going price for a well maintained Viper is about $30-$40. I know there are some listed in that price range but are they really selling for that? Hence the steel gray Viper in GA that has been mentioned on the forum and still for sale on Auto trader since May.
 

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There's a thread advertising a 99 GTS (with rear brake upgrade) for $29,000 and it's on ebay ($22,300 at the moment).

Check out the VCA Classifieds on this site.

Think there are a few GTSs for $35 with about 20K miles?

Another upgrade that you should make certain is on the car is highflow cats and exhaust. Otherwise the car sounds like crap and it is too HOT in the cockpit.

Ted
 
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Bexar80

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I know that the rear brakes have been upgraded but the seller didn't make any mention of the exhaust other than some added heat shields.
 

VENOMAHOLIC

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Get a VIN number and ask a site sponsor to do a title search of any Viper before you buy it. I am suspicious of the logo emblems not on the car so ask the owner what is up with that. It screams of repaint and skimping on the cost of replacement decals and badge $28,500 is not outrageous for a low production V-10 even with 41k miles but condition and maintenance are the most important issues. Look in the VCA classifieds at the prices asked for used parts (especially the hood,side sills,and engine) and you will have a better idea what even a parts Viper is worth.
 
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IEATVETS

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Steel Grey is a great color, you cannot go wrong with it. Of course I am biased.

Mine will be for sale in a couple of weeks. Steel Grey/Silver Stripes, Stoptech big brake upgrade, Mopar performance exhaust. Right now the car has 6700 miles on it. Will probably sell it for $41K.
$44 with 18" CCW 505A wheels and PS2 tires with 400 miles on them.
 
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Bexar80

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I noticed there was a web site that would list the recalls and/or service bulletins by VIN. I cannot seem to find it, I've been going through pages upon pages about these cars and seem to have lost it. Anyone have it readily available?
 

RTTTTed

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Steel Grey is a great color, you cannot go wrong with it. Of course I am biased.

Mine will be for sale in a couple of weeks. Steel Grey/Silver Stripes, Stoptech big brake upgrade, Mopar performance exhaust. Right now the car has 6700 miles on it. Will probably sell it for $41K.
$44 with 18" CCW 505A wheels and PS2 tires with 400 miles on them.

If I ever a stock GTS I would say that this one has the improved brakes (Gen 3?) and Hi-flow Cats with exhaust - Absolute minimium upgrades for 'stock'. If this car is equipped with new PS2s and lightweight wheels it should be able to equal a Gen 3's performance.

Course I have several classics that outperform stock older Vipers. Modified Vipers are my idea of fun. :drive:

Ted
 
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Bexar80

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Thanks for all the input guys. I went and looked at the car one more time. Everything seems in order but I did have one more question about the shifting of the transmission. It seems if I miss the 1st-2nd shift I cannot just go back to neutral then shift to 2nd gear. I did this four or five times while driving the car. When I did, it would go into 3rd fine and then I would shift down to 2nd or back to 1st then to 2nd. Is that "normal" or acceptable. I hope it is not a 2nd gear synchronizer wearing out in the transmission. OR do I just need to get accustomed to the shifts like a 16yrd kid driving his first manual transmission? :)
 
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v10enomous

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There's a 2nd gear lockout if you are too low in the RPM range... Will throw you right into 4th. Does that sound like what happened ? It's supposed to be for economy but in my case I just wind up delaying the 1st to second shift to avoid it. There are threads on disconnecting it.

Thanks for all the input guys. I went and looked at the car one more time. Everything seems in order but I did have one more question about the shifting of the transmission. It seems if I miss the 1st-2nd shift I cannot just go back to neutral then shift to 2nd gear. I did this four or five times while driving the car. When I did, it would go into 3rd fine and then I would shift down to 2nd or back to 1st then to 2nd. Is that "normal" or acceptable. I hope it is not a 2nd gear synchronizer wearing out in the transmission. OR do I just need to get accustomed to the shifts like a 16yrd kid driving his first manual transmission? :)
 

costanZo

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Thanks for all the input guys. I went and looked at the car one more time. Everything seems in order but I did have one more question about the shifting of the transmission. It seems if I miss the 1st-2nd shift I cannot just go back to neutral then shift to 2nd gear. I did this four or five times while driving the car. When I did, it would go into 3rd fine and then I would shift down to 2nd or back to 1st then to 2nd. Is that "normal" or acceptable. I hope it is not a 2nd gear synchronizer wearing out in the transmission. OR do I just need to get accustomed to the shifts like a 16yrd kid driving his first manual transmission? :)


I'm not sure if there are issues regarding that tranny then... the gears are close, but I always granny shift and no matter which gear I'm in and shift into neutral I can shift out into any gear I want for the most part. I drove my Viper to work this morning and did it a lot on the highway in stop and go traffic ranging anywhere from 15mph-40mph. I'm constantly shifting from 3rd into neutral and from neutral either down to 2nd or back into 3rd.

There's a 2nd gear lockout if you are too low in the RPM range... Will throw you right into 4th. Does that sound like what happened ? It's supposed to be for economy but in my case I just wind up delaying the 1st to second shift to avoid it. There are threads on disconnecting it.
He is right, I've had mine pop out of gear before if you are too low in the RPM range.. however, I've also started my car up from a standstill in 3rd, so the tranny is pretty flexible from my own experiences.

By the way, if you're buying a Viper as many people have already stated there are several mods available. In my honest opinion and the most important mods you can do in this order I would highly suggest.

**Tires should come first, however if you have brand new tires or a lot of tread on the ones on the car you buy, you can hold off on these.
1. Stereo-
Stock Viper's have a terrible stereo system. I bought my whole sound system before I even had the car so I could have it installed immediately.
2. Exhaust-
THE BEST setup in my honest opinion is to go with the 3" tip Corsa Exhaust, Random Tech HiFlow Cats to reduce heat and create a beautiful sound! These two things are a must, and to compliment this, which isn't necessary, but definitely a bonus if you have the extra cash to do it, I would go with bellenger or B&B headers. I still want new headers, but of course exhaust and cats should be the first performance mod you do on the car.
3. Intake-
K&N smooth tubes, air filters. I replaced everything and did the K&N Dual FIPK, complete new airbox and all.
4. Tires/Wheels-
As I mentioned in the beginning, tires are a must....PS2's are THE BEST tires for the Viper, the lifespan I would say would be around 14,000 miles. If you buy a car with good tires then you don't need to worry right away, but definitely make sure your Viper has GOOD tires. Wheels of course are all a pesonal preference. I bought a 96, and absolutely HATED the stock 17s.. they looked horrible, and were too small. I jumped up to 19s in front and 20s in the rear and chrome. If your buying a 1999-2002 those wheels are much better then the cast wheels on the 96 and early 97s since they are forged and in my honest opinion look better.

So there you have it. I'm sure other people might have different suggestions, but I strongly feel the most important mods you can do FIRST if you're not seriously looking to track your car, and your just looking for an overall amazing day to day driver's experience on normal street and highway driving.

Stereo, Exhaust, Intake, Wheels/Tires :2tu:
 
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