Eagle Rods
- Thread starter EllowViper
- Start date
EllowViper
Enthusiast
K1 is researching a set of their rods with the .945 wrist pin. Atleast Summit has an excellent return policy. Kinda amazing in this day and age.
Solution:
-Hone rods out to .9908
-Order pistons in .990 Wrist Pin, or ATTEMPT to have the pistons you have bored/honed to .9908.... which may or may not be possible depending on design, and may end up being more expensive than just getting new pistons and selling off what you have.
-OR-
Simply have the rods re-bushed and honed for a .945.
-Hone rods out to .9908
-Order pistons in .990 Wrist Pin, or ATTEMPT to have the pistons you have bored/honed to .9908.... which may or may not be possible depending on design, and may end up being more expensive than just getting new pistons and selling off what you have.
-OR-
Simply have the rods re-bushed and honed for a .945.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Yes the 96-99 is a different piston and rod then a 00-02.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
K1 states that the .927 bushing can be machined to the needed .945 diameter. But what I thnk I'll do (because the bore is right at the max limits for taper and out-of-round), I'll get it diamond honed/plateau finished to no larger than +.010 and get new pistons with the .984 wrist pins size. As soon as I get the finished bore dimentions, I'll pursue the new pistons. If anyone is looking for a complete set of the stock Diamond forged for the 00-02 creampuff, let me know since I'll cut a hellava deal on these (with new rings and Clevite-77H rod bearings). I'd recommend dismounting all and re-installing on replacement rods due to several being bent. The pistons were checked by the shop and are functionally fine. One is new. Skirts have some scuffing but nothing excessive. Piston measure out at 4.993 at the skirt.
EllowViper
Enthusiast
7-8K miles (Feb 2009 install) and stock comp ratio. You can go to the Roe racing web site and look at his ad. Good F'ing pistons but I really painted myself into a corner. K1 is a Diamond distributor as well and they highly recommended these pistons. I wouldn't be scared of these used pistons other than having to take the time/expense to press them off the current rods and re-install on replacements. I actually have replacement stock rods that I could use on the ones that got bent, but figured the Eagles would be a logical upgrade. So guys what do you think...just replace the bent ones, slap it back together, and drive the pi$$ out of it? At this point, that is looking just fine by me. That big solid roller cam I have is screaming to get installed and getting this rig back on the road.
I'd try and buy some fat copper headgaskets to lower compression or open the combustion chambers of the heads (and cc). Then I'd reassemble with replacement rods. Valve to piston clearance with that cam? Maybe buy a custom made pulley for more boost (and Nitrous?)
My thoughts are that you bent the rods with the intake Backfire a few pages ago and using the cheaper (already owned internals) would let you test for the backfire problem. Did you find that problem?
Ted
My thoughts are that you bent the rods with the intake Backfire a few pages ago and using the cheaper (already owned internals) would let you test for the backfire problem. Did you find that problem?
Ted
Since you are going through all the hassle, I would HIGHLY advise going to either a .927 or a .990 full floating pin. Skip the pressed in pin nonsense altogether. There is no reason to go back to that poor design if you dont have to. It would cost only a couple hundred bucks... and would be worth that alone in the lack of assembly hassles that come with pressed pins... and longer life.
Hands down, your best bet is to get Eagle rods [what you already have] honed to a .9908, and then get your new pistons made for a .990FF pin.
If you are looking for something better than "basic" replacement pistons, let me know. We have some very effective dome profiles that we use.
Done, Finished, Solved.
Hands down, your best bet is to get Eagle rods [what you already have] honed to a .9908, and then get your new pistons made for a .990FF pin.
If you are looking for something better than "basic" replacement pistons, let me know. We have some very effective dome profiles that we use.
Done, Finished, Solved.
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Valve to piston clearance will not be an issue on any dished piston, which would be the cheapest way by far to adjust his compression at this time since he is going to get new pistons anyway. We have done pistons with some MASSIVE dishes, and can do just about anything someone would like... without having to CC the head chambers, which can make it near impossible to get a head back to a N/A type chamber for possible future uses.
Lastly, stay FAR away from Copper head gaskets on anything but all out race engines. they will cause severe galvanic corrosion in street applications.
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Greg Good Cylinder Heads
Enthusiast
EllowViper, be careful not to let any moisture touch those L19 rod bolts.
Whatever pistons you get, make sure that the *gage point* (the largest diameter of the skirt) is moved up from the bottom of the skirt. Pistons on a Viper hang out of the bottom of the bore at BDC, and a straight taper skirt will rock too much, break the oil ring seal, and the engine will smoke. Talk to a tech that knows about this stuff and get the right skirt profile. Not many people know or pay attention to this, but it is important.
Don't use a thick head gasket to lower the compression. Get the correct dish and have the compression distance set for .010" out of the deck. An .051" gasket will work with that.
Whatever pistons you get, make sure that the *gage point* (the largest diameter of the skirt) is moved up from the bottom of the skirt. Pistons on a Viper hang out of the bottom of the bore at BDC, and a straight taper skirt will rock too much, break the oil ring seal, and the engine will smoke. Talk to a tech that knows about this stuff and get the right skirt profile. Not many people know or pay attention to this, but it is important.
Don't use a thick head gasket to lower the compression. Get the correct dish and have the compression distance set for .010" out of the deck. An .051" gasket will work with that.
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
Hey Greg,
maybe I am confused, but shouldn't the piston stay in the deck by at least .010?
EllowViper
Enthusiast
Good call on the tapered skirt. Got the .051 gaskets already but think the pistons are just a zero deck compression height. I did notice that the Diamond pistons had a shorter skirt than the OEM cast. Since I have everything on the bench, I'll install one in the bore just to see how much they protrude underneath. If I recall, not much if any. I sent the Eagles rods back to Summit with the hopes of working a package rod/piston deal in the near future. I'm back to all options at this point.
Hey Greg,
maybe I am confused, but shouldn't the piston stay in the deck by at least .010?
No, not necessarily, you want to run a tight quench.
We run 0.000 Deck, and use .040 gaskets on our builds.
Greg Good Cylinder Heads
Enthusiast
Hey Greg,
maybe I am confused, but shouldn't the piston stay in the deck by at least .010?
With a stock gasket that is .051" thick that will set the piston to head clearance at .041". Not a bad place to be.
Just tossing it out there, but we do have a revised gasket design in the .040 range that would work for a Zero deck piston, as well as allow the changing of your lifters, with the heads still bolted in place. Anyone who has ever had to pull heads to change the lifters or cam knows how much of a life saver that ability can be!
Lastly, if you already returned your rods, we can supply you a set of Eagle rods already honed to accept the .990FF pin.
I can make this as painless as you want it to be, haha. Bearings, rods, pistons, pins, and head gaskets. All I need to know from you is what your target static compression ratio will be, your bore, head chamber CC's, and if your crank or deck has been modified.
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