Gen 1 Headgaskets

[FRANK]

Well after seeing some tiny dime sized puddles on the garage floor I knew my head gaskets were leaking on my 94 RT/10. After speaking with Doug Levin and Chuck Tator about the gaskets and getting a price on a set, Chuck recommended that maybe a retorque would help out.

I spent a few hours tearing into the drivers side head and retorqued it. Both Doug and Chuck told me that 95ft. lbs. was the equivalent to the 30 ft. lbs. plus 1/2 turn. I decided myself to try 100 ft. lbs. and see what would happen. I buttoned up the drivers side, filled her up and burped her. Fired up the engine and after five minutes of running, I shut it off. No drips on the floor! I then raised the car on my lift and unfortunately, I saw two tiny drips right at the mating surface of the head/block. The retorque did stop the puddling and 90% of the leak. However, there were two tiny drips at the head gasket.

I did notice that where you can see the gasket tab sticking out between the block and head was pretty much gone and looked like a rusted piece of cardboard just hanging there. Chuck did tell me if the head gasket tab was in bad shape then I would probably need the head gaskets. I must say Chuck advised me to try the retorque first and I am glad I tried it. It took me about three hours start to finish and I even reused the old valve cover gasket and manifold gasket so it only cost me 8 bucks for antifreeze and a few bucks for distilled water.

At this point I will be buying a set of head gaskets and not bothering with retorquing the passenger side since the drivers side is still barely weeping.

The only regret I had is not going a little more on the torque of the head bolts. I wonder if I went to 110 ft. lbs. (another 10 ft. lbs.) if that would have totally stopped the leak...

Chuck, you'll be hearing from me soon...thanks Chuck and Doug for your input...

 

[ruckdr]

Frank,
Do not retorque any more - REPLACE the gaskets and forget about the leaks. I just did mine, it is now running, but still up on blocks as I am doing some other things. REMEMBER, it is not IF the gaskets leak (Gen1), but WHEN they will leak. My '96 has only 7200 miles, and contribute much of the problem to the car sitting and thus the gaskets harden. IT WILL HAPPEN.
Later,

 

[Doug Supercharged Vipers]

Hello Frank -

Forget about performing anymore retorque procedures. The head gaskets are "Rotted Out." When you remove the heads you'll see the water jackets rot towards the cylinders and elsewhere. Drops of coolant on the floor are the head gaskets diligently telling you to replace them. And with traces of coolant on the floor, think of other places the coolant is making it's path to; The engine internals!

The part number for the head gaskets has been revised. You now have the availability to improve engine sealing with the new revised gaskets. Even if your not sure when you'll be performing a top end, order the head gaskets now. Availability of the new gaskets may be hard to locate.

Regardless of the miles, do a valve job. You may need to mill the heads just enough to get them straight. And now your probably wondering "should replace the head bolts?"-- The answer is yes.

Don't forget to drain the block before you remove the heads.

Good Luck!

 

[GCHDEALER]

How much do a set of Head Gaskets cost? Looks like it is about to be that time for me. My car has never run hot or had water in the oil but, after a close inspection this weekend it appears that mine need replacing as well. The water trails are on the block and the visible portions of the head gaskets look rusty and rotten but, I've never seen any water hit the ground. I have no extended warranty so I guess I will have to pay for these out of my own pocket. I will have one of my own techs do the labor of pulling them down (he teaches me and lets me assist him while working on my car). I guess I need to know an approximate estimated cost of having the heads milled, having a valve job, and is it a good idea to have the heads port and polished at this time.? My car is a 94 with 24k on it and it has never been into. It runs super strong and although I know it needs this performed just dreading it. The week down time is the worst part it was in the low 70's here this weekend and I really got to enjoy the car for two days. Thanks for any advise Chad

 

[Yves]

The gaskets themselves are cheap : about 100$
It's the work involved that boosts the price : remove the hood, the headers, etc...
You'll end up paying for manhours, not for those silly little headgaskets.

Been there...

 

[Viper Wizard]

New GENI Upper Engine Gasket Set:
#4626640AD MSRP $615.00 as of 2/3/03 at 8:30am est DC stock 28 sets.
Head Bolts: #6034952 [need 24] MSRP $6.10 each DC stock 294.
Old gasket torque 95ft.lbs.
New gasket torque 110 ft.lbs.

["I don't like this new forum! ]

 

[jp]

One often forgotten thing to check is the thermostat housing. The bolts often get lose and the housing starts to leak.

 

[Roadkill]

New GENI Upper Engine Gasket Set:
#4626640AD MSRP $615.00 as of 2/3/03 at 8:30am est DC stock 28 sets.
Head Bolts: #6034952 [need 24] MSRP $6.10 each DC stock 294.
Old gasket torque 95ft.lbs.
New gasket torque 110 ft.lbs.

Wow.. $610 msrp on a head gasket.. Just curious as to what type material the new gaskets are made of compared to the old gaskets? are they metal reinforced? Any clue why it is so much? (other than the fact it is a viper item)? or is this one of those items where dealers have significant room for for negotiation?

 

[Yves]

I paid 100$ one year ago.
And no, it was not the 'old' style gaskets. These were GenII style gaskets for a GenI (i.e. metal ones).

Chuck - are you talking labor cost (+/-6 hours) included ?

 

[jp]

That prize is the top end package, with all needed gaskets to do a top end job.

I paid 100$ one year ago.
And no, it was not the 'old' style gaskets. These were GenII style gaskets for a GenI (i.e. metal ones).

Chuck - are you talking labor cost (+/-6 hours) included ?

 

[FRANK]

Doug,

Upon speaking with Chuck Tator he told me that you must be careful pulling the heads off when unbolted because the liners sometimes can be pulled out of the block if the head gasket is stuck to the head and the liners. Have you ever had that happen?

Chuck recommended to leave two bolts in place (loosened up good) and tap the head with a rubber mallet and/or a piece of wood to break it loose.

Any other recommendations? The last thing I need is to disturb them and create more work for myself.