Nitrous questions

[PBJ]

Hey guys,
I have enough spare stuff to add a N/X wet kit to my car... my questions are this. How safe is a wet shot using the test port for your fuel supply ? I know the intake/fuel rail has fuel delivery issues of its own, but would it handle a 150 shot with a stock pump or would a boost pump be needed ? I would rather not have a propane tank in the back of the car... not enough space as it is. I know NOS has a dry kit, but I am partial to using a wet shot. I would not be spraying a lot (100-150 shot), I was just curious on everyone's opinions. I use the test port on almost every car I install nitrous on...F-bodies, Corvettes, Mustangs...etc. I have never had any problems in the past, but I was looking for somebody who has tried this already. Thanks in advance.
Later,
Joe

 

[Flyin Phil]

When I installed a wet system on my '96 RT/10 last fall, I was told that the test port (the one with the Schraeder valve) was the way to go. It worked fine for me, though I've only got a few runs on it so far.

 

[Jack B]

A stock pump will absolutely support your 150 shot.

 

[fast?]

how about adding a seperate fuel tank and pump for your nitrous?
btr has an upgrade kit that has a front mount fuel cell and pump.
works pretty good on my car. also don't have to spend money on 20 gallons of race fuel, only a 1/2 gallon in front fuel cell.

 

[PBJ]

Thanks for the replies.
Trent, I have heard about that kit but I didn't know any details. What happens on a hard launch with only a 1/2 gallon cell ? What happens when you run low or out of gas... are you using a fuel safety switch ? Where does it mount ? Any info would be great.
Thanks again,
Joe

 

[ubnbit]

PBJ,

I also have the NX kit on my 96 RT. I have the wet shot system with 200hp right now. I have had it about a year and it works great. I plan to turn it up to the 300 shot this summer. No problems other than gettting traction in 1st and 2nd Good luck!

 

[Jack B]

Trent:

The gas adder is only if the stock pump cannot keep up with the hp. In addition, the octane of the adder tank is only part of the puzzel, you still have the main tank and octane level to worry about. If anyone wants a BTR gasoline adder, I have an extra (brand new) set-up for sale.

 

[fast?]

jack,

can the stock fuel system handle a 200 shot? or is it better to get the additional tank just in case?
are you using propane jack or just gas?

 

[Jack B]

I did a 200 shot with the stock pump. I then heard how poor the stock pump was and I changed it. I now feel that that decision was debatable. I'm now trying for a 300 shot. Remember 200 at the rear wheels is 230 at the flywheel.

It is kind of interesting, I am now maxed out on the N2O. I plan all hp goals around a 11:1 a/f. I know you can get better hp at 12 or 13, however, that is dangerous. Right now I am maxed out at a 53 N2O jet. No matter how much larger I go with the N2O jet the a/f stays the same. Previously I was maxed out at a 52 and changed the N2O solenoid to a high flow version and picked up one jet size (53) and 20 hp.

I just changed the 4AN line to a 6AN. I have not dyno'ed the car yet, however, it will be interesting. The cross sectional area of the 6AN is 3 times(ID:.16 vs .28 at the fitting) that of the 4AN. Theoretically the high flow N2O/Fuel sprayer can take a 63 in the N2O side before limiting out. Think about it, 16' of of a 5/32" line, that is a lot of pressure drop and consequentially flow. If anyone has any additional ideas about the N2O flow, I'd love to her them.

 

[fast?]

jack,

what year viper do you have? what mods have you done on the motor to with stand a 300 shot?

i also have changed to a better flowing solenoid and 6an lines. ordered the soft plume nozzles from nos. was told they would flow alot better than the reg nos nozzles.

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

After upgrading to the 255LPH pump (for a mustang, available at Summit) in my stock pump location I ran the NX kit with the 'FRED' device and jetted at 300HP for over a year. (and average almost 2 15lb bottle fills a week) It works fine.
This was on a 98 Forged stock motor, I am unsure about the newer piston'd cars.

 

[Jack B]

Trent:

My car is 97 stock lower,wih Balengers, 3" all the way and no cats. I just installed the T&D's and a underdrive pulley. If you take a look at Tom Welch's car he is doing better than a 300 and has done it for years on a stock lower.

As far as the new cars, I believe 00 and later, there are several with a 200 shot and one or two are in the ten's. The new cars have hig tech cast pistons and that is not necessarily bad. Their expansion is more uniform and they are lighter. In effect, the design results in a piston that is lighter and stronger than the earlier forged pistons, however, the weakness is in their crystalline structue. If the sound/impact of the n2o combustion cycle hits the wrong frequency at a high energy the piston will shatter. The event is similar to the shattering of prestressed safety glass. The combustion cycle of a N.A. engine will never reach that frequency/energy level to destroy the piston.

 

[Snakester]

Have you guys heard about the NOSzles?
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/69638/

It looks like a relatively easy way to do direct port nitrous. Although there isn't a kit for the Viper, you can buy the NOSzle units for $80ea and probably make you own fairly easily. It would prevent intake manifold puddling and provide more even fuel distribution.

Also, is there a less expensive progressive controller than F.R.E.D.?

Would you guys add a fuel line boost pump for a mild N20 application (120HP)?

And does anyone sell the Viper modified MSD window switches already pre-done?

-Dean.