Pads arrived today

RobZilla

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Ordered the "Pad and Plate Starter Kit" for my Porter and Cable from GlimmerGlassDetailing.com last week. It arrived today! Each pad individually wrapped and free from dirt and dust. Can't wait to get the car out of the garage and get to it.

I highly recommend this company for all your detailing needs. I am in no way affiliated with them, just a very satisfied customer. :D

Big thanks to Chris(NJ) for the PM link. :2tu:

P.S. The package came with a few small goodies...

:usa:
 

agentf1

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Looks like they are selling a lot of LC's older style pads. Everybody is selling the LC CCS pads now which are supposed to be better. You could have probably got them cheaper from autogeek.net if you used the CorvetteForum coupon code which is good for 10% off and gotten the newer style pads.

What color pads did you get? Be careful using the orange or yellow cutting pads since they could introduce micro marring that will be very hard if not impossible to remove with a ROB. I would not go any more aggressive than a white pad and keep your speed at 5.5. Buff until the polish turns clear and then remove residue with a quality mf towel. DO NOT buff until polish is dry or starting to dry.

If you do use an orange pad make sure you do a small test area first and tape an edge with painters tape so you have something to compare against and can verify that you are able to fully return the gloss.

Good luck with your detailing. :2tu:
 

Chris(NJ)

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Looks like they are selling a lot of LC's older style pads. Everybody is selling the LC CCS pads now which are supposed to be better. You could have probably got them cheaper from autogeek.net if you used the CorvetteForum coupon code which is good for 10% off and gotten the newer style pads.

What color pads did you get? Be careful using the orange or yellow cutting pads since they could introduce micro marring that will be very hard if not impossible to remove with a ROB. I would not go any more aggressive than a white pad and keep your speed at 5.5. Buff until the polish turns clear and then remove residue with a quality mf towel. DO NOT buff until polish is dry or starting to dry.

If you do use an orange pad make sure you do a small test area first and tape an edge with painters tape so you have something to compare against and can verify that you are able to fully return the gloss.

Good luck with your detailing. :2tu:

my .02
If you want to do any type of correction, you'll need an orange pad. Orange is only a light cut or heavy polish pad. fwiw, When I use my one step polish w/ sealant, I only use an orange pad. Perfectly fine finish that is lsp ready. The white pad is simply a polishing pad w/ practically no cut to it. Any micro marring induced by an orange pad and compound will polish out w/ a white pad and finishing polish. If you're getting a lot of marring w/ the orange pad, you might need to break down the product properly or refine the technique more.
The flat pads arent an old design either. Its actually a toss up between ccs and flat pads, and opinions will vary obviously. My personal preference is flat. (they're also designed for da polishers) I see no use for those holes, although I understand their intent. I use the flat pads on the rotary and da. Additionally, flat pads can help w/ good technique by teaching you to keep the pad flat when working. (ie: try not to on a rotary, lol) again, imo, theres just no need for the ccs pads, the flat pads do exactly what foam pads are meant to. Additionally, fwiw, I've heard a few experiences w/ the ccs pads not spinning properly on da machines and the product clumping in the little holes. :drive:
 
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Chris(NJ)

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Ordered the "Pad and Plate Starter Kit" for my Porter and Cable from GlimmerGlassDetailing.com last week. It arrived today! Each pad individually wrapped and free from dirt and dust. Can't wait to get the car out of the garage and get to it.

I highly recommend this company for all your detailing needs. I am in no way affiliated with them, just a very satisfied customer. :D

Big thanks to Chris(NJ) for the PM link. :2tu:

P.S. The package came with a few small goodies...

:usa:

:2tu::drive:
 

agentf1

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How does anybody feel about GRIOTS machine polish
Horrible, I have their Machine Polish 1, 2 and 3 and hate them. Would be willing to sell them to you cheap.

I would recommend either Zaino ZPC which is great if you are using a sealant like Zaino since they contain no oils that will interfere with your sealant bonding to the paint or Menzerna. I seem to like Menzerna's Ceramic polishes (PO106ff or PO85RD) since they work so good on hard clear coats but their IP and FPII also work nice. #m also just came out with a nice finishing polish Ultrafina SE which is supposed to be really nice but I hacen't tried it myself yet.
 

agentf1

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my .02
If you want to do any type of correction, you'll need an orange pad. Orange is only a light cut or heavy polish pad. fwiw, When I use my one step polish w/ sealant, I only use an orange pad. Perfectly fine finish that is lsp ready. The white pad is simply a polishing pad w/ practically no cut to it. Any micro marring induced by an orange pad and compound will polish out w/ a white pad and finishing polish. If you're getting a lot of marring w/ the orange pad, you might need to break down the product properly or refine the technique more.
The flat pads arent an old design either. Its actually a toss up between ccs and flat pads, and opinions will vary obviously. My personal preference is flat. (they're also designed for da polishers) I see no use for those holes, although I understand their intent. I use the flat pads on the rotary and da. Additionally, flat pads can help w/ good technique by teaching you to keep the pad flat when working. (ie: try not to on a rotary, lol) again, imo, theres just no need for the ccs pads, the flat pads do exactly what foam pads are meant to. Additionally, fwiw, I've heard a few experiences w/ the ccs pads not spinning properly on da machines and the product clumping in the little holes. :drive:

I have fixed many cars where people had used an Orange pad on their ROB and created so much micro marring I needed to buff for hours with my rotary to restore the finish. All Orange pads are not the same and this is why I always recommend that you tape an edge and try a test area first to ensure you can restore the shine. This is usually more prevalent on darker colors but also happens on light colors but you just cannot see it as easy.
 

sirhc76

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Had to use a yellow pad soon after I purchased my car. I'm no expert but marring is expected with a pad that aggressive. Normally it's followed up with one or more less aggressive pads and polishes. This is the way I have done it and normally don't have an issue. Realize started with the least aggressive route is the best way to go. I normally would start a standard detail on my Ram SRT10 with an orange pad, that's just the way I do it.

This pic was after only the yellow pad and a trial run on some of tropicares products. It's obvious which side has been worked. Normally I would use pinnacle or menzerna, the tropicare product that I used worked well.

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Here is a picture of my Ram SRT10 prior to waxing and sealant

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GBS

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I tried the new Cobra Cross Cut Pads last weekend when I polished my 02 ACR. The cross cut allows for more pad contract in the curves of the car. It's hard to find a car with more curves then a Gen II Viper. I was very happy with the performance of the pads. They're my new pad of choice for the Viper. Here's a few pictures after polishing only.
Flex_menzerna1.jpg

Flex_menzerna2.jpg

Flex_menzerna6.jpg

I hope to finish up the detail this weekend with 2 coats of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and a coat of Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax on top.
 

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