Paxton Superchargers

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I think there are actually a fair number of Paxton installs out there. I am VERY surprised by the "don't operate under 40º", as that could rule out quite a few of us that might take the car out on an otherwise sunny day. I wonder if that is more of a warning for traction or if the charger itself could pose a problem with colder intake temperatures. Hmmm...

I would also love this upgrade, but only worry about traction. I have had the pleasure of driving another DLM beast and traction was a challenge even without runcraps (regular Pilots). That is my only concern - that and no cash (forgot that very important part). ;)

Chris as good as you are at picture taking...take some pictures of some $100 bills and cut them out! LOL!
 

Joseph Dell

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I've seen a few paxtons on the SRT and it is a work of beauty. When (not if) I get my SRT, I'm going to slap a DLM paxton kit on it.

I've never heard of the "below 40 degrees" thing either... but since the paxton is lubricated off of a tap to the oil pan and oil pressure sending unit, you'll want the car to be warmed up before you beat the #!@# out of it.

JD
 

Sean Roe

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We're assisting a local Ram SRT-10 owner install his Paxton kit.
The truck is stock and we dynoed 3 pulls back to back, then did three 1/4 mile passes with the G-Tech on the runway. The G-Tech is not 100% accurate compared to a drag strip, but it is repeatable and should show us the gains.
We'll do the same after the Paxton install.
He can't finish it yet because it is missing the 4" to 3.5" elbow that connects the blower inlet to the air cleaner (he called his dealer a week ago).
He was also missing the PVC valve, some fittings for the oil line and a few bolts (supplied ones were too long for a few parts and bottomed out before becomming tight).
A couple interesting points of the installation manual were; not telling the installer to ever put the belt on (or when in the assembly as I had to tell him to pull the front plate off so he could get the belt on), and the part about drilling through the side of the oil pan and tapping threads into it (3/8 pipe thread) but saying it's ok and you have to change the oil after (you should have seen how much aluminum was in that pan as I told him he should drop it and clean it).
I have the Split Second software and have downloaded /saved the timing retard program that comes with it. The Split Second FTC1 has an inherent 1.5 degrees timing retard on top of the programmed curve.
I loaned him a set of the stepless clamp pliers for the fuel system clamps as that's not a normal tool most people have.
It will be interesting to see the power and results when finsihed.
The truck was at somewhere around 430 RWHP stock with a high flow air filter (S&B).

Regards,
Sean
 

GR8_ASP

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I also had to find the tool for the fuel hoses. Eventually I found that the GM axle boot clamping tool worked perfectly.

I cannot believe that it asks to drill and tap the oil pan without removing it. The Viper manual does indicate its removal. Note I needed an new oil pan gasket as the elastomer portion separated from the aluminum carrier. (it was leaking before the work so may have been damaged beforehand).

Why can't they get the parts right??? $8,000 and I have to go find parts at stores. That isn't good.

Has anyone tried to find out how tight the air cleaner housing is between the radiator mount and the intercooler. Mine is a definite interference fit, even after some adjustment and modification (to the mounting holes)?
 

Joseph Dell

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RE: the oil pan thing. When I did mustang superchargers, I'd do the hole w/o removing the oil pan. The trick was to hit it with a centerpunch (don't drill b/c you don't want shavings in the oil pan) and then either a) tap it or b) stick the fitting in and cover it with JB Weld. No leaks on 5 that way. And no motor damage from shavings either.

The truth is, though, that on these cars, it is soooo easy to pull the oil pan once you get the car up in the air that it isn't that much more work.

JD
 

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

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I wont rant about how dissatisfied I am with my previous paxton purchase, pretty well documented. But its not all too suprising that they are at the same level of detail they were 15 months ago, when I got my Gen 2 kit, had the same issue with missing parts, and they wanted to charge me to ship them priority 2-day, just so I could have them for the weekend, which arrived a week and 1/2 later.

Cant dispute their power numbers, they sure can make 'em, just not to impressed with the company as a whole.

Good luck to those that have them.

Jon
 

GR8_ASP

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So is the best response to go back to Paxton direct when asking for the missing parts? If so how do you go about it (I presume there must have been a phone number somewhere)?

I tried going to the seller and his response was "Oh I have had some missing parts too."
 

2002_Viper_GTS_ACR

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So is the best response to go back to Paxton direct when asking for the missing parts? If so how do you go about it (I presume there must have been a phone number somewhere)?

I tried going to the seller and his response was "Oh I have had some missing parts too."

I worked directly with Paxton over the missing parts issues, if you can consider it "working with" someone as unhelpful as they were.


Jon
 

1TONY1

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RE: the oil pan thing. When I did mustang superchargers, I'd do the hole w/o removing the oil pan. The trick was to hit it with a centerpunch (don't drill b/c you don't want shavings in the oil pan) and then either a) tap it or b) stick the fitting in and cover it with JB Weld. No leaks on 5 that way. And no motor damage from shavings either.

The truth is, though, that on these cars, it is soooo easy to pull the oil pan once you get the car up in the air that it isn't that much more work.

JD

The punch will work on a steel pan....I don't think a cast aluminum pan would like it very much.
 

Paul Hawker

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I just attended a tech meeting for club members at DC Performance. They are a quick driving distance to Paxton, and had lots of customer supercharged cars there to see. They had several twin supercharged cars, and some big single supercharger system from another tuner in house. They spoke very highly of Paxton, and commented on the satisfaction level of their customers.

Dan mentioned that they had developed lots of "tricks" from installing so many systems. I got the feeling that do it yourselfers had a learning curve to climb, and that though a relatively talented individual could indeed install the system, that with experience came expertise.
 

supratime

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Are you guys experiencing violent wheel hop when your spinning uncontrollably? :)

That's what I'm afraid of... wheel hop! I would love to get a paxton supercharger but my viper has a hard time containing traction as it is. and im not into getting drag tires. Any other supercharged vipers have any comments on wheel hop??
 
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Cris

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If I count correctly there are only 5 posters above that have the Paxton kit on their SRT-10. And of those only one appears to be self-installed. There must be some more out there lurking. Come on guys!
 

Paul Hawker

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Supratime.
No wheel hop here on my 03. Just uncontrollable wheel SPIN.

As I get some more seat time with the supercharger, it is becoming more enjoyable. Learning much more precise throttle control, and can now anticipate the increasing boost with RPM's.
 

VIPER D

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So is the best response to go back to Paxton direct when asking for the missing parts? If so how do you go about it (I presume there must have been a phone number somewhere)?

I tried going to the seller and his response was "Oh I have had some missing parts too."

I worked directly with Paxton over the missing parts issues, if you can consider it "working with" someone as unhelpful as they were.


Jon


I personally know paxton to be very helpful!!!! especially mika

vd..
 

ViperGMC

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I admit it I have been lurking. I have personally installed 2 Paxton units. The first time, it took me from Friday night to Sunday night solid. The second time it tool about half that. The installation is pretty straight forward but you need to be mechanically inclined. Both times the water pump and associated parts were missing. I did not discover the missing parts till Sunday so I could not finish the install. I did everything else so when I got the pump, I could just pop it in. I went back to the dealer and it took some 6 days to get the pump. Pissed me off big time. I even tried to find a pump at AutoZone and Wal-Mart. The second time, I made sure I inventoried all the parts first, then called Paxton directly and they over nighted the parts so I lost no time. But I would have hit the roof if I had discovered the missing parts half way thru the install. Other than that it is a great kit. It includes everything you need. Make sure you have a 3/8 NPT, they don’t carry that at your average home improvement store. I driven some 5K miles and no problems at all. The install is clean and could easily pass as a factory option.

Dyno-ed at 650-680 HP and it is kick but on the track. You need to be very respectful of all the power. I can spin the tires in 1-2-3 gears. I do not get any better launch times simply because I can not keep the wheels from breaking loose. I have become very smooth with the gas pedal. I think a non SC Viper would beat me off the line simply because I would spin my wheels. I have ordered a new set of HRE’s with some Cup tires from JonB to help keep the traction under control. I am looking forward to see how that goes. I also have a set of 3.55 gears, but I can’t see installing them right now.

One thing I have learned about quick lap times, it not about straight away speeds or HP, it’s about braking and setting up the turn. This kind of HP is just about useless for a street car but is sure is fun to tell people you have 750HP under the hood and it can go well over 200MPH, God knows where, but it could.

Also, my manual cautions about temperatures below 25 degrees not 40, so I don’t know what that is all about. As for wheel hop, technique will take care of that.
 

Viper X

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I just got mine out of the shop yesterday, so not much seat time yet. I get both wheel hop and wheel spin if not careful. I have the 3.55's too. Throttle control seems to be the key as Paul and others have stated. Rolling on the throttle helps some. I put stage three heads and B & B headers / exhaust on as well and the power is so great from 4500 rpm up that the wheels break loose in 1st, 2nd and 3rd (I haven't gotten to the top of 4th yet.....)

Next step, tires and rims.

Major fun!
 

Paul Hawker

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A side benefit of the Paxton was made evident to me tonight. On my 15 mile ride home, the freeway was horribly backed up. While I was edging along, about 15 mph, with lots of stop and go, I realized just how dossile this +700 HP vehicle was. Drove just as a stock Viper. Then when I got it on the final off ramp, I could release all my frustrations with a quick z-o-o-m. It is amazing that a car with such monster HP could be driven in stop and go traffic.
(Reminder to self...next time out...clean off carbon and plugs.)
 

STUGOTS

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Congrads Carrot let us know what kinda power shes puttin down.

Good luck.
 

Sean Roe

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The local customer we helped received his parts and we were able to dyno the truck.
Below are the before and after dyno results.
The truck was stock with an S&B air filter.
The stock two pulls were 1 minute apart.
The three pulls with the Paxton were also 1 minute apart.
Our large high speed fan was in front of the truck during the pulls.
We also recorded the Paxton Split Second program and used their software to log the boost from the run.
The maximum boost was 8.1 to 8.3 psi at 5,900 rpm for the pulls.
The maximum timing retard was set at 6.5 retard at 5,500 and 10 degrees retard at 6,000 rpm (from stock). There is an additional 1.5 degrees retard built into the Split second box, on top of the progarmmed values. We did not adjust anything for the customer, so this is straight out of the box.

36truck-med.jpg


More power could be made if the timing retard was reduced or eliminated for a pull, but detonation would likely occur on the road as it loads the engine harder than the Dynojet. With this setup using their recommended plugs (not included), there was no detonation signs on any of the spark plugs.

The next test was to run on the air strip using the G-Tech as we did stock. The truck picked up 3.3 MPH in the quarter mile and reduced it's 0-60 by 0.36 seconds. We also logged the intake air temperature into the motor for the runway tests using the EASE scan tool software linkled into the factory PCM.


Regards,
Sean
 

STUGOTS

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Wow good research Sean Thanks.

When your gen 3 kit comes out your gonna put that thing to SHAME.
 

GR8_ASP

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I contacted Paxton today and they were very good.

Only downside is the phone number on the cover of the manual is for a disconnected number so I needed to get the number from information. But the pleasant manner with which they handled things was great.
 

DSR207

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Any one with paxton s/c on a srt10...I have b&b headers and system....Any other mods needed
 

quick2tr

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Just looking for a bit more info about this kit: Thought I remembered pre 2000's Vipers having forged pistons and being desirable for FI mods.

Doesn't the SRT-10 have cast pistons?

No problems using the stock pistons with the Paxton S/C?

Thanx!
 

ARMORGOD

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Yes, the SRT does have cast pistons. The boost on the Paxton kit is relatively conservative, so it should be okay in the long run. Just don't get tempted and start bumping up the boost!
 

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Any one with paxton s/c on a srt10...I have b&b headers and system....Any other mods needed

Nope, you can just slap it on. A cat back wouldn't hurt.



Be very very carefull. THe paxton was made for a stock exhaust system. Headers or no cats may make your srt run leaner. It took us alot of time to tune my srt with no cats.

vd..
 

BigCarrot

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You basically have three options when it comes to computer management for Vipers. Split Second (OK), Roe Vec2 (better), and AEM (sweet pimpin). The AEM isn't exactly fully compatible with the SRT yet, although a couple of guys have figured it out.
 
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