<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Eddie N:
so a compression ratio under 8.0:1 will allow the motor to run more boost, but will have a lumpy idle and be short in the torque department (and have bad gas mileage)?
now, for instance, if the motor made enough naturally aspirated torque with the 8:1 CR, would the car would make up for it with top end HP on high boost?
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Eddie,
Yes, this is correct. Compression ratio has alot to do with efficiency in an engine. You want to get that air and gas in there, then squeeze it as much as you can (sort of like compressing a spring), so that when it lights off, the maximum amount of energy is absorbed by the piston. Only something like 15% of the air/gas mixture's energy goes into pushing the piston, so you can see if that mixture is being squished into a smaller area, it will be more efficient in transferring energy to the piston. The problem is that as you squeeze it, the heat goes up and the likelihood of it detonating early goes up too. If you squeeze even more air and gas in there, the chances of early ignition are even higher! On the other hand, if you lower the compression ratio to account for this, you gain the ability to run more boost, but the engine is less efficient and gets worse mileage and loses off-boost power. There is some sort of happy medium in there, and that is a compression ratio of between 8:1 and 8.5:1. At that CR, you're not going to lose all that much efficiency (mileage isn't going to be too bad), and you will retain enough torque - especially on a Viper - to get good launch power. You really want to size the turbos so that they are producing boost at about 1/3rd of the redline of the car - so on a Viper that would be about 2000rpm. So, you're only off-boost RPM's would be around 750 (idle) to 2,000 - which isn't too much, and a reasonable CR will make you happy in around-town driving.
But I'm rambling here
If I were TT'ing my Viper (and god willing, I will be after I get my SRT), I would be most concerned with the strength of the rotating assembly and how true and square the motor is. Additional loads from combustion chamber pressure aren't really too bad (something like 20% more stress on the piston at double the horsepower of stock - there's a lot of math as to why that is, but I'm too dumb to go into it all), but in a turbo, you really want to have everything square, lined up, centerlined, etc.
On the TTC4 I'm doing, it will probably run 22-24lbs of boost without trouble. I'm hoping for around 18-20lbs which should be able to run on pump gas with no problem, and should make upwards of 800-900HP at the rear wheels. One of the good ways to make horsepower in a turbo car (and people don't realize this often enough) is to REV it! Making pretty big torque at 7,500RPM is preferable to HUGE torque at 3,500RPM, because the HP numbers at 7,500 will be outlandish... and I'm shooting for over 1,000RWHP, which means I'll need to make good high-RPM torque and rev this sucker to well over 6,000 - over 7,000 and as close to 8,000 as I can.
overall, thanks for the info.. that explains why the high revving low displacement short stroke engines in imports can run 30 pounds of boost,yet the viper guys get nervous above 7 or 8 psi..
arent you working on a twin turbo C4 project?
- eddie -
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