Recommended oil for heads/cam

[Sniper]

What oil would everyone recommend for a heads/cam car?
The shop said: Schaeffers custom synthetic blend on cam changes so its not a straight moly oil and has a higher zinc content to help break in/set new rotating parts but I could change to whatever oil at my next oil change.

 

[viperBase1]

Check into DRIVEN racing oils. LINK

I'm sure they have a product dedicated to your exact situation.

 

[Sniper]

I’m wondering if anyone has an actual suggestion for a specific oil.
As in 0w40 or 5w40 and what specific brand of oil would be best?
Stick with the stock oil Vipers use or…?

 

[Sniper]

I’ve got a recommendation for using Mobile 1 15w50

 

[Old School]

I’ve got a recommendation for using Mobile 1 15w50

This is what I use, but there are a million internet "oil experts" out there, just like me.

 

[MoparMap]

Stock oil should work just fine in the long run I would think. There really shouldn't be any major differences on a heads/cam car that would need something else I can think of. Maybe higher valve spring pressures could put more strain on the cam if you have them, but otherwise I don't think you'd see any huge differences. More power generally speaking will be harder on parts, but I don't think it would be a significant enough change to need anything wildly different.

I know Arrow/Prefix recommend Driven break in oil for a fresh build when I did mine several years back. Since then I've just run the standard Mobil 1 10w-30 the gen 3 calls for. I've run the gen 5 Pennzoil as well because I got a case free. I've thought about going up to 10w-40 just for a little more weight under heavy loads, but I'm probably splitting hairs.

 

[AZTVR]

Internet Viper "oil experts" often recommend Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40 ("European Formula") since that was what Dodge recommended some time during the Gen 3 production, and it has one of the highest ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorous) levels in their product line (lubricity additive component). Note that formulations change over the years so, what was available in 2005 is probably not the same as today. Other experts, such as **** Winkles (was Dodge's chief engineer for Viper powertrain) have recommended different viscosities, depending upon usage, modifications and environment temperatures (specifically, suggesting somethinghigherthan a 0W rating). Mobil 1 seems to be the only one that publishes actual Zinc and Phosphorous levels; but, I haven't read any scientific discussion of what is "needed" for a Viper engine configuration. Generally seems like more is more better. Note that other manufacturers may use a newer lubricity additive where ZDDP levels are not relevant. Here is a link to the pdf file for Mobil 1 oil specs: (automatically downloads) https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/...engine-oils-product-guide-sheet--may-2022.pdf

 

[MoparMap]

One thing to keep in mind as well is that high zinc oils were typically more needed with old flat tappet cams as that was a high wear point, especially with aggressive valve spring pressures. Modern roller lifters largely get around this issue by actually having bearings, though the rocker arms on the Viper are still non-roller design. Granted "more slippery" is generally better than less when it comes to any kind of friction, so I don't think high zinc stuff would hurt by any means.

 

[TA Hawk]

I use the Mobil One 15-50 , but my car is used mostly for track days. I test my oil a couple times a year and the samples always look good. My only recommendation the thicker oil is to let the car really warm up before getting on it.

 

[Sniper]

I always let my car warm up for at least 10 minutes before I even drive it.

 

[Suregrip391]

I always heard that the older flat tappet cars get the high zinc and phos oil. I have older cars so for them, I give them nothing but Brad Penn Racing oil. i also heard using oils with high zinc and phos is NOT good for the newer cars as this kind of oil plugs up your cats! I have no first hand knowledge other then I never had an issue with the Brad Penn on my flat tappet cars….