Sports Shims?

[crviper]

Ok I was reading my shop manual and stumble across something I had never heard of or seen. Apparently from what the shop manual says you can remove these "sports shims" if you plan to run your car in an autocross event! Which one is cool that one they thought about that. Two I can't find any where on the web that anybody talks about this unless I am just plain dumb and not looking hard enought! Lol which is a possibility! Lol but anyways it suppose to change then front camber angle negatively by 1 degree. Which aparently allows you to exhibit higher cornering power than when set to production camber specifications. Then the vehicle can be returned to production camber specifications without the necessity of doing two complete front suspension alignments. But also says that you should use a trammel bar to reset it back to production specfications. Also it's not recommende to drive normal like this due to the obvious increase in camber angle. Cause extreme tire wear may occur. Which undertandable! Page 2-16 in the Suspension section of the 1994 viper service manual. Just wanted to either brin this to light to thosel like myself who had no clue or idea. And for those who knew about this maybe share some
input if you had done this what was he results and what the heck is a
trammel bar!!! Lmao

 

[crviper]

I just realized that after posting this that this topic was mentioned or brought up almost 9 years ago! Lmao but I am sure no people might some different input or results since then with this experience or subject perhaps?

 

[Jack B]

Ok I was reading my shop manual and stumble across something I had never heard of or seen. Apparently from what the shop manual says you can remove these "sports shims" if you plan to run your car in an autocross event! Which one is cool that one they thought about that. Two I can't find any where on the web that anybody talks about this unless I am just plain dumb and not looking hard enought! Lol which is a possibility! Lol but anyways it suppose to change then front camber angle negatively by 1 degree. Which aparently allows you to exhibit higher cornering power than when set to production camber specifications. Then the vehicle can be returned to production camber specifications without the necessity of doing two complete front suspension alignments. But also says that you should use a trammel bar to reset it back to production specfications. Also it's not recommende to drive normal like this due to the obvious increase in camber angle. Cause extreme tire wear may occur. Which undertandable! Page 2-16 in the Suspension section of the 1994 viper service manual. Just wanted to either brin this to light to thosel like myself who had no clue or idea. And for those who knew about this maybe share some
input if you had done this what was he results and what the heck is a
trammel bar!!! Lmao

I remove them most of the time I autocross or track. The car also it set for max camber on the street. Once you get the hang of it it takes about 15-20 minutes a side. You will need a large breaker bar and pipe extension.

That trammel bar should be for setting the the toe-in. The toe changes when you remove the shims, therefore,in theory you should adjust the tow. I don't believe that many actually adjust the toe when removing the shims, especially for autocross,

 

[crviper]

Ah makes sense! But eitherway if removed or not if you take to any autox event your gonna be be experiencing tire wear, right? This adjustment is just would be beneficial towards corning or performance purposes I assume. Just was seeing if it really is worth doing it or makes a significant or even a noticable difference.

 

[Paul Hawker]

Idea is that when you get to the track, simply remove the shims, and run you event.

Before driving home, put the shims back in and tighten every thing up.

Did this in my 96 Coupe. Avoid wearing out he insides of your tires driving back and forth to the track.

Made significant differences. Turn in is much sharper with shims removed.

 

[Dom426h]

Does anyone have a pic of this shim in or out of the suspension?
a scan from the shop manual?
When i replaced my shocks over the winter i was looking for it but found nothing. I was thinking that perhaps one of the previous owners removed em but that dosnt make sence since my front camber looks pretty tame. (

more info:
http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/605310-sport-shim-removal.html

 

[crviper]

I will post up a pic later of what's in my manual!

 

[BOTTLEFED]

nice find

 

[gb66gth]

Does any of this apply to my Gen IV?

 

[crviper]

That is a good question! I wondered if this to applies to all vipers or just certain gens are allowed to do this? I can only assume that the Comp Coupe or the ACRx or
models that where only meant for track might already have a setup like that. But I know they run on a totally different compund tire all together anyways. But it's just very interesting topic if ya ask me. But still think it was a cool idea on Dodge's part to think of that. Cause when I was racing in my SCCA solo 2 events with my 350z I would go to get my alignment adjusted for the events then pay to get them back to stock specifications. But would then notice a total difference in the car's ability to corner so much better which in the end make me happier producing better
times with each run. To have an option like this on a car of this magnitude makes it more cool and exciting to be an owner of one! I like that when ya think you know all there is to know about this car. There is always an additional info once in a while that you'll stumble in that makes it fascinating!

 

[crviper]

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[Viper Wizard]

Does any of this apply to my Gen IV?

The sport shims are only on GENI's & GENII's.

 

[crviper]

If anyone is gonna know it will be Chuck! Lol

 

[MADMAX]

I remove them most of the time I autocross or track. The car also it set for max camber on the street. Once you get the hang of it it takes about 15-20 minutes a side. You will need a large breaker bar and pipe extension.

That trammel bar should be for setting the the toe-in. The toe changes when you remove the shims, therefore,in theory you should adjust the tow. I don't believe that many actually adjust the toe when removing the shims, especially for autocross,

Sorry to drag this one back from the dead but... how many people adjust the toe-in when they remove the shims?
I'm thinking of removing shims too, which is an easy job, but adjusting the toe-in, reliably, extra tools, yuk..... Is it absolutely necessary?
The upper control arm pivot bar dips at such a shallow angle, its effect on toe-in must be negligible.
Any thoughts out there from the die-hards and experienced?

Ade

 

[Paul Hawker]

For the casual track rack we would just remove the shims and get out on the track. Some others would put a specific number of turns on their rods, and mark them so they could return to street calibration before driving home.

Another favorite addition was to wrap tie on some brake air deflectors from the turbo Porsche to direct some additional cooling air to the easy to overheat brakes.

When the brakes were used hard the heat would transfer to the brake lines and boil the fluid, causing the pedal to go to the floor, and often a run off into the dirt.

Great times with these cars. Often it was more of a matter of heat management with engine and brakes being used up in the corners, and then needing to cool down on the straightaways before tackeling the next group of corners.

When you would use high revs, the engine would climb into the red zone, and you needed to give it a breather by lugging it around until you built up some cooling to allow another rapid lap. The brakes would give you one (and only one) soft pedal warning before going away completely.

We learned not to put on the emergency brake when coming into the pits, as that would warp rotors by causing a hot spot where the parking brake rested.

All along pit row you would see Vipers with their hoods open, allowing the engine to cool down before the next lapping session.

The later generations are much more track ready, and have better reserves of engine and brake cooling.

 

[GTS Dean]

^^^this^^^

 

[Steve-Indy]

A friend liked the extra camber afforded by the sport shims upon removal so much that he machined a set of extra thick sport shims so that his track set up was even more radical in terms of camber when he removed said shims !!

 

[MADMAX]

Thanks guys - looks like an no-brainer.

Had a play in the garage this afternoon - loosened fasteners, removed shims, cleaned up, greased and replaced without any problems - doing it trackside should be a breeze.

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If I'd know it was that easy I'd have tried it a long time ago. :