1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Transmission Help Please - 1999 RT/10

Discussion in 'RT/10 and GTS Discussions' started by Eric D, Apr 2, 2020.

  1. Eric D

    Eric D Enthusiast

    Posts:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Location:
    Peoria, IL
    I was just out driving my 99 RT/10 today and was shifting into fourth gear when a loud clank started coming from the trans. It was under normal shifting, not under heavy acceleration. I instantly shifted into neutral and coasted into a parking lot. No noises were heard while coasting in neutral. After bringing it to a stop, I can shift into gears with the clutch in but as soon as I start to let the clutch out and the car starts to move, a loud metal clanking can be heard. Its very loud and in every gear, including reverse. It only has 30k miles and I haven't had it long. I can rebuild an engine but I don't know squat about manual transmissions. Just trying to get an idea of what I might be in for. Doesn't sound good and afraid it may be more than I can handle in my garage. Any reputable / trustworthy shops in central Illinois for trans work?
     
  2. MoparMap

    MoparMap VCA National President Venom Member

    Posts:
    1,667
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2013
    Location:
    Kansas
    Almost sounds like it could be a clutch issue as well if it's doing it in every gear.
     
  3. steve e

    steve e Enthusiast

    Posts:
    948
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 1995
    Also check the drive shaft and half shafts to, if you can rebuild an engine, you can rebuild a trans, since it sounds like you never worked on a manual trans your unsure of yourself, you can do it, there are lots of u tube videos and manuals you can watch and read, and when your done, you will say to yourself that was not so hard. Not being there its hard to guess what's wrong, but I do not think the trans is the problem, keep us updated, inquiring minds want to know.
     
  4. yevgenievich

    yevgenievich Enthusiast

    Posts:
    19
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2020
    Location:
    Brazos Valley, TX
    I had a c6 tr6060 break a front bearing that would make loud clunking noise if trying to move as input shaft would flop around. Other than needing an extra long puller contraption was reasonably easy trans to take apart. Regular t56 is even easier, and no super long output shaft to deal with
    IMG_20191007_054044.jpg IMG_20191008_230226.jpg IMG_20191008_230230.jpg
     
  5. Eric D

    Eric D Enthusiast

    Posts:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Location:
    Peoria, IL
    Big thanks for the feedback everyone! I am going to pull it myself. I was a little hesitant but after a little research it shouldn't be too bad. I will post what I find as soon as I get it out. By the way, any suggestions for clutch kits for reasonable price? I don't track it or anything but would like an upgrade over stock.
     
    MichaelJB likes this.
  6. yevgenievich

    yevgenievich Enthusiast

    Posts:
    19
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2020
    Location:
    Brazos Valley, TX
    From what I have read, Luk standard replacement clutch is fine up to 550ish hp
     
  7. lane_viper

    lane_viper Enthusiast

    Posts:
    78
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2018
    Location:
    Tennessee
    I rebuilt my Viper T56 and my Corvett's T56. Its not really bad at all.

    Lots of info online, and if you need a pdf repair manual, I have some I can send you.
    You will need a press to press off and on the old and new bearings.

    I ordered my parts from here:

    https://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/3503850.htm

    and

    https://ampdistributing.com/collections/t56-6-speed-transmission

    The 6th gear thrust washer was destroyed in mine and what was left welded itself to the 6th gear. This caused my 5-6 syncro assembly to come apart and not stay in either gear.

    I ordered a new 6th gear from AMP.

    PM for questions. Glad to help

    Lane
     
  8. 97BlueWhite4Sale

    97BlueWhite4Sale Enthusiast

    Posts:
    15
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2018
    Location:
    Henderson, NV
    If it fits, I have a new never been in a Viper 1997 transmission. Contact me for more info at [email protected]. Thanks, Pat
     
  9. HoustonViper

    HoustonViper Enthusiast

    Posts:
    3
    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2019
    Location:
    Houston
    Eric did you find your issue yet? I have a 2000 and the same exact thing happened to me however it was second gear. It was the rear differential ring gear was the issue. We are guessing one bolt on the ring gear came loose made contact with the case and essentially sheared off the heads of all ring bolts allowing the ring to separate from the carrier. Replaced ring and pinion and carrier.
     
  10. Dan Cragin

    Dan Cragin Enthusiast

    Posts:
    1,217
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2007
    Location:
    LA, CA
    I have a low mile Donato built T-56 with the close ratio 5th /6th hear for $2500 Dan 310-597-6295
     
  11. Eric D

    Eric D Enthusiast

    Posts:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Location:
    Peoria, IL
    Hey guys, my apologies for the lack of updates but life tends to kick you when you are down. It comes in waves. Well, I was finally able to get the trans pulled. It is not sounding good. Clutch looks great, no problems there. When turning the input shaft it's like there are no gear teeth and doesn't engage for about half a revolution. Will post more later today.

    20200505_142134.jpg
     
  12. Eric D

    Eric D Enthusiast

    Posts:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2019
    Location:
    Peoria, IL
    Well, when it rains it pours. Found broken teeth on the case magnets as soon as we pulled off the tail housing. When trying to use the gear puller to remove 5/6?? the puller broke a few teeth off of that gear and we still could not get the gear to budge, it is still in there. We removed the front cover just to take a look at the internals to get a feel for overall damage and where the broken teeth were coming from and it just kept getting worse. The pics speak for themselves. I am at my wits end. At this point I don't feel it is worth rebuilding now that part costs are adding up rapidly. I can buy a used / salvage with warranty and no core for around $2,600 with low miles, Or I could buy a reman but I assume my core would be considered non-rebuild-able as far as a core charge with so much destruction? In that case a reman is definitely out of the question as far as cost since I have seen core charges anywhere from 1-2K. As much of a concern is what possibly caused the failure if anyone has ideas. I don't want to repeat this exercise. I don't drive it overly hard but I have had it hop on hard launches which I know if tough on the drive train. The trans mount was completely separated so it essentially was not functioning at all. The driveshaft was missing a balance weight where you could see the weld broke and it was missing. Could these have contributed to the failure? Oil was super clean other than the gear chunks. Also, is there a trick to get the pilot / needle bearing out? I am afraid it may be shelved for a while while trying to come up with cash. I appreciate the private sale offers but I would really want a warranty of some type. Thanks again for all the input! On a side note, I found my slightly chewed up steering reservoir cap on the inside of the belly pan. Always wondered where that went.

    20200509_152509.jpg

    20200509_164325.jpg

    20200509_164332.jpg

    20200509_164501.jpg

    20200509_164515.jpg
     
  13. ViperJeff

    ViperJeff VCA Legacy Member - UT/AZ Staff Member

    Posts:
    3,987
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2010
    Location:
    Idaho
    WOW
     
  14. yevgenievich

    yevgenievich Enthusiast

    Posts:
    19
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2020
    Location:
    Brazos Valley, TX
    Core is a core as long as it all have not left the case. Put it together and use as a core. Gears are replaceable.
     
  15. lane_viper

    lane_viper Enthusiast

    Posts:
    78
    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2018
    Location:
    Tennessee
    If it was me, I would do a rebuild kit. (Bearings, keys, syncros, ect.) and inspect each gear. Clean everything.

    You could go core replacement, but new bearings and syncros would almost mean a new transmission. Buying used could get you another time bomb.

    Gears not up to snuff would get replaced. Just from the pics you will need a new cluster gear, input shaft with 4th, and 5/6 cluster gear

    Don't forget new U-joint straps, as they stretch when torqued.

    Loads of documentation out there, and if you've come this far in disassemble, might as well fix' er up.

    https://ampdistributing.com/collect...per-t56-2-66-ratio-cluster-gear-counter-shaft

    https://ampdistributing.com/collect...-gm-t56-6-speed-transmission-5-6-cluster-gear

    https://ampdistributing.com/collect...-viper-t56-26-spline-early-design-input-shaft

    https://ampdistributing.com/collect...obra-tremec-t56-6-speed-synchronizer-ring-kit

    https://ampdistributing.com/collect...-t56-6-speed-bearing-kit-with-seals-fork-pads

    I had to do a rebuild on mine when the 5th/6th gear thrust washer disintegrated and caused the 5th/6th shift collar to come apart. Car wouldn't stay in either gear. That washer then ate up 6th gear which I replaced from AMP. New bearings, syncros and seals, and It's good to go.

    I also like https://www.thegearbox.org/T56.html

    Good luck in what you decide.
     

Share This Page