V-1 hard wire advice

[kverges]

I wanted to hard wire my Valentine 1 but did not know an easy place to get switched 12V power very easily, especially since all the fuses are now under the hood. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[CajunViper]

Let me know Kieth what you find out. I would like to do the same.
How are you going to mount the rear detector.

Dean

 

[ElDiablo Viper]

I have my V1 hardwired and installed above the mirror. Chuck Tator did the installation and he taped in to a wire under the dash above the light switch. Then I run the cable around the window to the unit. I did not install the remote unit because the way it is set up is very easy to see. Also it is very hard from outside to see the V1.

Sorry, I did not know that you were asking about SRT-10.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Is either of the power receptacles switched? One is on the console near the dash (the pop-up unit) and the second is in the console cubby box.

For the Gen I I routed a wire behind the front dash panel up to the top of the dash and had the V1 velcroed to the top of the dash. I have no idea where to mount it in the SRT or how to route a wire to it.

 

[ABADASP]

Mounted unit above right side of mirror and hard wired to pop up lighter works great. Mike SRT 03 RT10 98 both silver

 

[kverges]

How do you hard wire to the pop-op lighter? That is, how do you remove enough of the console to get to that outlet? This is a switched outlet and the one I'd like to use.

As for the detector, I just use the suction cups high and to the left of the "****" where the top latch is located. I just want to use a hard wire instead of the coil cord.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Ron, our Tech Dir., printed up a 4 page guide for this last year...sent to all of our Club...as an "FYI".

Ron...can you post this for the guys...or send it to Tony or Jay for placing in the illustrated upgrade section ???

 

[Ron]

Parts List (for a GENII Install):
A) 1 – Valentine One Radar Detector $399.00
B) 1 – Valentine One Remote Display $39.00
C) 1 – Radio Shack ATM Fuse Tapper Kit Part # 900-7186 $2.49
D) 1 – Radio Shack Fuse Holder Part # 270-1217 $1.89
E) 1 – Radio Shack One Amp Glass Fuse Part # 270-1005 $1.39
F) 1 – Radio Shack Ring Terminal Connector Part # 64-3118 $1.49
G) 1 – 3/4” x 2” strip of sheet metal (can even cut out of a can) -
H) 5 – Inch strip of Black Velcro -
I) 1 – Can of flat black paint -
J) 1 – Length of heat shrink tubing -

Tools:
Soldering Gun
Crimping Pliers
Electrical Tape
Philips Screwdriver
Shorty Philips Screwdriver
Volt / Ohm Meter (Helpful, but not required)

1. To help visualize the installation process, it’s best to first remove the lower knee pad underneath steering column. There are 6 Philips screws including the one facing the door (which will require the short screw driver). In addition, you must “pull off” the pedal adjustment knob.
2. Your first assembly step is to set up the V1 power supply. It will be installed with Velcro on the driver’s side wall of the under dash area directly west of the fuse panel. (north being the front of the car and west representing the driver side). Consider this as you decide on your wire lengths. No need having excessive length, but any extra can be rolled, wire-tied and left under the dash.
3. You set up the power supply by first crimping one side of the fuse holder (D) wire to the fuse tap connector (C) (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). The other side of the fuse holder can be soldered and sealed with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to the red (+) lead of the Valentine One (V1) power supply (Photo F). The black lead of the V1 power supply should be crimped to a Ring Terminal Connector (F).
4. Insert the fuse block tap onto fuse #6. This is a switched power location. Use the spade closest to fuse #10 as this is the fused side, (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). Then connect the fuse tap connector to the tap itself. Next, connect the ring terminal ground to the screw to the left of fuse #1 just outside the fuse box case. (Photo A)
5. Connect the supplied short V1 modular cord (looks like a phone cord) to the remote, fish it behind the top of the steering column down to the V1 power supply and connect to the “Accessories” socket. Clean the top of the steering column housing with a dab of alcohol and the place a joined piece of Velcro on the bottom of the remote display, peel the adhesive backing and apply between the tach and speedo. (Photo B)
6. Connect the other longer modular cord to the V1 power supply socket labeled “Main Unit” and fish the wire up around the dash panel, up the “A” pillar and across the top to the windshield over to the rear view mirror. Depending on how your windshield was installed, you might need a bit of black electrical tape to hold the wire in place. You will need to make final adjustments after the V1 is mounted so do not tape extensively until mounting is complete. (Photo C). You can then attach the V1 Power Supply to the driver’s side wall under dash with Velcro.
7. Make sure the mirror is properly positioned for viewing, then position the V1 on the right side of your rear view mirror so that it is balanced and wedged against the windshield with its front top. Mark the V1 with a pencil so you know where to place the Velcro strip. Clean the top of the mirror with alcohol, place the Velcro strip on the bottom of the V1, peel the adhesive backing and mount, being careful position the V1 level and facing forward. (Photo D)
8. Noticing the angle of the back of the rear view mirror and the bottom on the V1, bend your piece of sheet metal according. Once you have the correct compound angle, clean the metal with alcohol and paint black. After it dries, place Velcro on top and back sides so that the V1 is supported in front. (Photo E)
9. You can now install the one amp fuse in the fuse holder and turn the ignition on so you can test the installation. Assuming all is well, you can now reposition the wires to hide exposed slack and replace the knee pad. The V1 can be removed (carefully) for use with its suction mount and cig-liter adaptor in other vehicles or just removed for servicing security. The Velcro attached to the V1 unit will not hinder its use in standard V1 mounts.
10. I have found the install to be reliable, stable and secure. It can be easily and completely removed at any time leaving nothing to indicate that it was ever installed.

Don't have time to post the photo's right now, but will later tonight. Will also post a PDF if anyone wants.

 

[Steve-Indy]

YOU da MAN, Ron !!!

 

[SylvanSRT]

how about the windshield mount? thats what i use

 

[Ron]

V1 windshield mount would not fit above my rear view mirror. Also felt suction cups would give way over time.

 

[SylvanSRT]

mine fits over(and to the left), with the cord behind the rearview mirror no problem

 

[kverges]

I appreciate the input, but we are talking SRT-10 here.

I just want to know where to easily tap into switched power. The detailed instructions above only help if there is a fuse panel in the passenger compartment, and appear to be written for the GTS.

THERE IS NO FUSE PANEL IN THE PASS COMPARTMENT OF THE SRT-10

Hence I was looking for suggestions on easy access to switched power. The pop-up power adaptor looks good, but I don't want to mess up the center console trying to get to the wiring underneath the adaptor, which is where I would need to tap.

So the question remains: where can I get switched power in the SRT-10 and do so easily? Details, please if dash or console panels must be removed.

Thanks

 

[Ron]

Keith,

You are correct, GEN II install. My apologies. I don't spend too much time over on the SRT-10 forum, yet.

 

[Y2K10 SRT#39]

Did you check the extra connector above the mirror? Not sure what it is for, but thinking it could be tapped into easily. It seems to be an afterthought in the wiring anyway.

 

[Nsane1]

Mine was wired through the dash (between glass and dash) and the wire fed to the driver footwell. He hardwired it somewhere in there (didn't get a good look).

Got it done at Innerspace on Beltline (next to Chipotle). Had lunch at Chipotle, and came back, all done. $60, and mine's a guinea pig.

Works great. On the windshield, its on the lower/middle portion, middle of the glass, using the window mount.

I agree, that connector looks ugly near the mirror, but, didn';t want it installed up there.

I used a normal V1 cable for this (or a 4 prong/4wire RJ11), and cut one end off, not a fan of the V1 hardwire kits.

Contact me direct if you want more info.

 

[kverges]

Greg, I'd like stick my head in your footwell to see which wire they tapped into.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Hmm, Keith that is quite an offer. If you find out let us know.

 

[gtsviper]

Any update on hardwiring the V1 on the SRT?
BTW...I think the extra connector on the rear view mirror is for the alarm flashing light.

 

[Phoenix SRT]

Nsane1,

How about talking to your installer and getting detailed instructions on how to do it, then posting them? It would help those of us who are too far away to take it to your installer.

Thanks.

 

[kverges]

I ended up doing as follows:

Remove the lower panel from under the steering wheel, to access the wiring that leads to the ignition switch. I believe you will find a solid blue wire, probe it to make sure it has power only when the ignition switch is on. Splice into it or use a wire tap (I just strip a bit of insulation and solderered in the power wire for the V1,then used liquid electric tape).

Ground under any screw to the frame.

Feed the RJ11 power wire to the location of choice. I like mine high so the rear facing part of the detector has a good shot out the back window. I fed the wire up along the A-pillar behind the A-pillar cover (something the Gen III car has that the earlier cars did not) and up high along the windshield, using high-adhesive body side molding tape for the windshield run).

I just use the suction cup mount and it holds up fine.

That's it.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Keith, I am in process of doing the same as what you describe. How does the lower panel come off? I don't want to hurt anything in the process. I have removed the 2 screws on the bottom but it seems to still be quite tight.

And where abouts is the blue wire you mentioned. Easy to find?

Thanks,
Ron

 

[GR8_ASP]

bump