Winter time: How do you park your viper?

viper04blk

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It is about 2 weeks away from snow where I live. I am curious how everyone winter parks their vipers?

I have had cars in the past, and it was advised to start the car every 2 weeks (otherwise oil runs to the pan, and it is metal on metal for the first few strokes on spring start-up)

I have had cars in the past, and it was advised to NOT start them all winter, as the starting does unnecessary wear-n-tear.

I will be parking the car in a heat garage...


What do you guys do? Any viper techs wanna give some suggestions?
 
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It is about 2 weeks away from snow where I live. I am curious how everyone winter parks their vipers?

I have had cars in the past, and it was advised to start the car every 2 weeks (otherwise oil runs to the pan, and it is metal on metal for the first few strokes on spring start-up)

I have had cars in the past, and it was advised to NOT start them all winter, as the starting does unnecessary wear-n-tear.

I will be parking the car in a heat garage...


What do you guys do? Any viper techs wanna give some suggestions?
Don't start it unless you let it fully warm up enough to get rid of any condensation it has pulled in since the last time, generally you can go without starting over a winter, it is long term storage that you might need to.
 

TRACKDAY

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I do the following for winter storage:

1. add 2-3 psi to the tires
2. connect to a battery tender
3. top off the fuel tank and add the recommended amount of Stabil.

I've never had any issues come spring time.

Hope this helped.
 
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viper04blk

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Thanks for the info.

A mechanic once told me, that it is bad for a motor to sit unstarted for months. He said the oil will run down into the oil pan, and the first couple strokes on start-up will be metal on metal friction due to no oil lucubration.

Although, this was before the days of synthetic oil........ anyone have a concern about this?
 

cdover73

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In Texas we don't put our Vipers away for the winter.:drive:

X2 for Louisiana!!!

As far as the battery tender, at what point should it be connected between driving? Two weeks idle? Two months??? My car will sit for a couple weeks sometimes before I drive it. I have never had an issue with getting in or starting it, but should I be hooking it up during those short spells? Also, I am about to leave for Saudi Arabia for a couple months. The car is in my shop under cover. Other than the battery tender, is there anything else I need to do....like maybe hide the keys from the wife???
 

St.Char

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X2 for Louisiana!!!

As far as the battery tender, at what point should it be connected between driving? Two weeks idle? Two months??? My car will sit for a couple weeks sometimes before I drive it. I have never had an issue with getting in or starting it, but should I be hooking it up during those short spells? Also, I am about to leave for Saudi Arabia for a couple months. The car is in my shop under cover. Other than the battery tender, is there anything else I need to do....like maybe hide the keys from the wife???

If you already have the tender, it would be a good idea to leave it plugged in while you are gone. Mine is always plugged in between driving , including all winter. Once you've had an issue with the car not starting, you'll never leave it unplugged again. Depending where you store your car, I always stick garage rags in the exhaust tips to prevent mice from entering.
 

dirkbonn

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This is from the 2010 service manual CD: (I have copied and pasted all the sections) For short term storage, refer to owners manual.

On a vehicle that is to be stored for 90 days or longer the following procedures are recommended to minimize environmental effects on mechanical components and painted or upholstered surfaces.

•Store vehicle in a well ventilated dry location.
•Vehicle must be dry before it is stored.
•If storage area is subjected to below freezing temperatures, place 3 mills plastic sheeting under vehicle. Plastic sheeting will serve as a barrier for condensate water that could form on a cold floor during temperature fluctuations.

Position vehicle as far away from continuously running electric motors as possible to reduce rubber component degradation. Electrical activity creates ozone which will cause rubber to deteriorate.

On a vehicle that is to be stored for 90 days or longer the following procedures are recommended to minimize environmental effects on mechanical components.

•Verify that the cooling system is protected to -28° C (-20° F) regardless of the temperature in the storage area. Antifreeze coolant limits corrosion of cooling system components.
•Change engine oil and filter to remove possible contamination that could cause corrosion or sludge in crankcase.
•Coat unpainted surfaces in engine compartment with Mopar® General Purpose Lube MP-50, or equivalent, to prevent corrosion.
•Fog engine combustion chambers and valve train with light lubricating oil, such as engine top oil. Fogging the engine helps prevent cylinder corrosion.


1. Pour 120 ml (4 oz.) of engine oil in a open container.
2. Disconnect PCV hose from one valve cover.
3. Start engine and hold idle at 1200 rpm.
4. Immerse PCV hose into container of top oil using a piece of short hose.
5. When exhaust starts to smoke, turn Off ignition switch.
6. Connect PCV hose to valve cover.
7. Do not start engine again until vehicle is returned to use.

Fill the fuel tank to capacity to prevent condensation from forming inside fuel tank.

•Do not apply parking brake during long term storage.
•Inspect brake fluid reservoir for proper level, fill if necessary.
•Do not contaminate braking discs with anticorrosion material of any kind.

Remove the wheels from the vehicle. Inflate the tires to the maximum pressure indicated on the tire side wall. Store the wheels stacked and covered with a tarp on a wooden pallet to prevent flat spots from forming in road contact patch areas.

Turn rear wheel spindles several rotations once a month to circulate fluid through the differential. Circulating the differential fluid prevents corrosion from forming on components that are above the fluid level.

•Empty and wash ash receiver.
•Remove any articles from interior of vehicle that can emit odors.
•Vacuum clean carpeted areas in passenger compartment and trunk.
•In humid regions, suspend a desiccant bag from the rear view mirror to absorb the moisture from the air inside of the vehicle.
•Clean leather upholstery with Mopar® Total Clean, or equivalent, and allow to dry overnight before closing vehicle.
•If desired, dress the vinyl and leather interior components with Mopar® Leather and Vinyl Protector, or equivalent. For deep cleaning and restoring oils to leather upholstery, use a leather balm that is available at most leather goods retailers.

•Touch up or repair all chips and scratches in painted surfaces to avoid contaminating body substrate with wax or corrosion of metal components.
•Wash and wax exterior of vehicle and apply Mopar® Leather/Vinyl Protector, or equivalent, to exterior rubber and vinyl components.
•If vehicle is stored indoors, cover with a flannel car cover to protect the finish.
•If the vehicle is stored outdoors, cover with a ventilated weatherproof car cover with a soft lining.

RETURNING VEHICLE FROM LONG TERM STORAGE

For short term storage refer to Owner's Manual.

•Inspect braking discs, light oxidation on stopping surface is acceptable and should diminish as vehicle is driven. If heavy corrosion and pitting is apparent the braking discs would require service before wheels are installed. (Refer to 05 - Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/ROTOR, Brake - Diagnosis and Testing) , for proper procedures.
•Install wheels at the same locations from which they were removed. Each wheel hub is marked to indicate proper location.
•Wash preservative oils from engine compartment and undercarriage of vehicle.
•Install fully charged battery. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/Battery System/BATTERY - Installation) .
•Perform all time related periodic maintenance described in the maintenance schedules.
•If used, remove desiccant bag from interior of vehicle.
•Clean vehicle as necessary.

It is possible for the clutch disc to adhere to the engine flywheel. The transmission will not go into gear if this condition exists. To correct this condition, lift the rear wheels off the ground and support the vehicle on safety stands. Start the engine with the transmission in fourth gear and hold engine speed at 1200 rpm. Depress clutch and apply the brakes to stop rear wheels. If this procedure is not effective,(Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Manual - Diagnosis and Testing) .

•Start engine and verify that oil pressure, generator charging rate and engine coolant temperature are in the normal operating range. Inspect engine and drive line for fluid leaks and abnormal noises, correct any defects that are apparent.
•Pump brake pedal several times to verify proper operation.


I notice that in the RETURNING VEHICLE FROM LONG TERM STORAGE section that it refers to installing a fully charged battery, but nowhere does it refer to removing or disconnecting the battery. I think I would just use a good battery tender.
 
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ROCKET62

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Here's how I "parked" my Viper last winter - LOL! Moved from the mid-west to Phoenix and have not missed it one bit!
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ledfoot

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Yeah, don't want to be a Deek, but in the Bay Area if ain't raining its driving weather...Of course if it sprinkles it leads the news. We need some rain !
 
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