Bleeding slave after Clutch/ Slave install

[Nates78Ski]

Just recently purchased a '92 RT-10. She needs a lot of work. Among the list of items was the clutch (& flywheel) & slave. We've got it all put back together and have gone through the bleeding procedure a dozen times & I can't get any remotely decent feeling pedal. Could it be the master giving me issues? Am I missing something?

Thanks

 

[serafins]

It’s a huge PITA. The system will self bleed if you pump the pedal a few hundred times. I hooked a vacuum pump to mine, set up a bottle to replenish the reservoir automatically, and pumped the pedal all at the same time. Still took 100 pumps or so to get a decent pedal.

 

[Steve M]

During the slave/tranny R&R is when you would have wanted to install a remote bleeder...it makes a world of difference.

 

[Old School]

There is an alternate method of bleeding. Press the clutch pedal completely down, then slowly open the bleeder valve. Close the valve, then release the pedal. This method causes the pressure plate itself, by pushing on the throw-out bearing/slave cylinder, to force the fluid out the bleeder.

 

[Nates78Ski]

During the slave/tranny R&R is when you would have wanted to install a remote bleeder...it makes a world of difference.

Makes a world of difference how? We've got a lift, so getting under the car's not an issue, but does it make purging air easier?

 

[Steve M]

Makes a world of difference how? We've got a lift, so getting under the car's not an issue, but does it make purging air easier?

From personal experience, it's allowed me to hook up a pressure bleeder to the reservoir and force the air through the system to the high point (now up in the engine bay), and then monitor it carefully as it comes out of a bleeder that I can hook a standard brake bleeder bottle up to rather than just watching it squirt out all over the place in the trans tunnel and bell housing.

I've done it both ways, and have had more consistent and better overall results using a remote bleeder.

 

[Nates78Ski]

I appreciate you getting back to me on this. I ended up ordering a new master. Replaced that yesterday & as I was removing it, it dumped out a bunch of the old, gross brake fluid, even though the reservoir was emptied, cleaned & filled with new fluid. Spent about 20 minutes pumping & bleeding last night & it's about 80% of the way there. We're getting some pedal feel & I can see the pressure plate disengaging slightly. A bit more today & we should be good to go!

 

[VipeRob]

I got so frustrated with being unable to bleed mine after a master replacement that I let it sit for a month. Got in to fire it up and decided to check the pedal - and it has been working fine since!!

 

[4bangerviperjr]

A vacuum bleeder would help immensely. A trick that I learned from my wife’s Mini cooper though, is to get a halfway decent pedal by pumping, then install a push rod between the seat and clutch to hold the clutch pedal all the way down. Pull the fluid cap and make sure it’s full. Let it sit depressed overnight if you have the time. It will 100% work every time. The tr6060 slave doesn’t have the ability to vacuum bleed so this is really the best way on those too.

 

[Nates78Ski]

Finally got it. Thanks guys!

 

[jcgreywolf]

I appreciate you getting back to me on this. I ended up ordering a new master. Replaced that yesterday & as I was removing it, it dumped out a bunch of the old, gross brake fluid, even though the reservoir was emptied, cleaned & filled with new fluid. Spent about 20 minutes pumping & bleeding last night & it's about 80% of the way there. We're getting some pedal feel & I can see the pressure plate disengaging slightly. A bit more today & we should be good to go!

So im at the same point as you was. Changed the slave that was leaking all over and now the master. it too was full of black fluid and gunk after purging the system, which surprised me.

Stupid question is how did you get the red clutch line connector back into the slave? Mine won't lock in place for the life of me. I've just given up and gonna get a new line but now I need to find that. Also, couldn't get the green clutch switch connector loose either. I knew I was gonna break it so I just left it connected and took the switch off the rod.