Changing Plugs - GEN IV

George Farris

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Looks to be pretty straight forward.

# 9 and #10 a little tight ...

Anything tricks I need to know?

Thankx
 

Drew

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George (we) did mine at the same time (we) did headers, I dont recall any issues or special tools needed, it was tight, but doable. (we) did have the cowling and air box off for easier access to do headers. May have made all the difference in the world.

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George Farris

George Farris

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That surely would make it easier...

I'll see how my knuckles hold up before I take that much off.

The cowling may be good to do ...

Thankx!
 

rukcus

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I found that some of the threads stuck on a customer's 8.3 spark plug. It was a PITA to get out so I had to tap it out after, Wasn't too bad.
 
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George Farris

George Farris

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Does NOT sound like fun ....

This car only has 5K miles..

Hopefully, will not run into that issue.
 

Drew

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I put 20,000 KM on mine in six months from the time it left the showroom till the time (we) pulled all 10 plugs. They all came out easy peazy....sending good luck vibe your way for a smooth refresh of them.
 
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cowger

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From my Gen3 perspective...

Getting them out isn't bad, provided you have the right socket (made for plugs).

Installation is made easier by using a length of water hose that just fits over the spark plug body. New, flexible hose works like the ultimate u-joint when getting the plug threads started at those awkward angles.
 

Viper X

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FYI, Snap-On makes an extra long extension with a swivel on the end that also locks the socket onto the swivel. This really makes things easier for 8 or 9 of the plugs (can't remember exactly).

Definitely use a bit of antisieze on the plug threads and a bit of dielectric grease on the upper half of the plugs to ease removal of the plug boots.

Good luck,

Dan
 

Dan Cragin

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Here is a few tips:

Wiggle the spark plug boot back and forth before pulling it off. That will free up the connection and avoid the plug wire connector from pulling apart.

Once all the wires are off, you need to use some compressed air to blow the dust, grit and sand out of the spark plug tube as this grit accumulates around the plug and will just fall into the cylinder when the spark plug is removed.

If the plugs are hard to remove. spray some WD40 into the spark plug tubes and let it sit for a while.

Gap the new plugs .050 and apply a small amount of anti-seize on the threads.

Torque the sparks plugs, do not overtighten.

Spray the boots with some silicone spray and put di-electric grease in the boots. This will keep them from arcing in wet weather and keep them from sticking
 
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George Farris

George Farris

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Thankx Dan and guys... always worry more when it is not my car ...

Luckily, I have all the above ingredients needed.

grf
 

MoparMap

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I had a hard time getting a spark plug socket to fit on my plugs in my Gen 3. The socket wall was too thick and wouldn't fit between the heat shields and the plug hex, so I ended up just using a regular socket and them a piece of vacuum hose to grab the top of the plug to remove them. My plug boots were a pain to get off too, ended up pulling #9 apart during removal, but got it all crimped back together okay.
 

ROCKET62

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Removing the cowling and the air box along with taking your time and sipping a frosty beverage during those times when you get frustrated after scrapping a knuckle or dropping the socket definitely helps. I also like the idea of painters tape on the valve covers to keep them scratch free. Good luck.
 

MoparMap

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Oh yeah, also remember to remove all your tools before taking the car for a drive... I'm stupid lucky since I manage to not leave one, but three difference pieces in the bay. Two pairs of needlenose pliers and a 6 inch extension. Still have no idea how none of them got into anything.
 

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