Has anyone with Gen-I motor relocated PCV valve for oil control?

HP

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I had a couple of mods in mind to limit my oil consumption - including
the remote oil tank separator and Krankvents, but while waiting for the items
to be shipped, I noticed that under the PCV valve - the oil baffle was holding
a lot of oil on the top - right below the PCV valve. So the design of the baffle, and the fact that acceleration pools oil to the back of the covers, made me realize that it might be better to switch the PCV valve to the other
side front and put the incoming vent breather in the PCV valve hole. I've had
my motor checked and my oil consumption is not due to bad rings or valve seals.
I drive like a maniac - so that in part could be some of the problem - but
I just believe the valve cover vent system is flawed in having the intake vacuum line located where it is bathed in oil.
 

James Bell

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I am in the middle of installing a Hogan's Racing sheet metal manifold that does not have any vacuum bungs. So for the accessories, power brakes and crank case ventilation I am running a remote electric vacuum pump. The pump makes 25inches of vacuum and only draws 15amps. There is a breather/catch canister between the pump and valve cover inlet. To control the amount of vacuum, I theaded in a Moroso adjustable breather on the opposite valve cover. The benefit will be better crank case efficiency and vacuum at wide open throttle. This will make less turbulence in the crankcase and help the pistons seal without sending oily crankcase fumes into the intake. This set up will keep all the oily ventilation residue out of the intake manifold and into a drainable canister. I will let you know how it comes out when it is completed.
 

GR8_ASP

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HP, if you are concerned that oil pullover is the cause you can install a catch bottle between the pcv valve and the intake and see how much accumulates. Note that in general the quantity of oil to water is about 1:10 (it will look very clear if it is normal pullover). You can try this on the makeup air side as well, which is between the valve cover and the air cleaner.

I had not heard about Gen I's having a big pullover issue. Early Gen II's are a different story though.
 
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HP

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Ron - I had ordered a catch can from JEGS - it just hasn't come in yet -
I got the idea to switch the PCV location from a picture of a 94 that was upgraded by SVS. The thought was put into action when I pulled the PCV and
noticed oil dripping off it - because the baffling was not designed with the
PVC in mind.

James - I am interested in your setup, please report back with an update.
Does your 'adjustable flow breather' work like the vacuum relief valves used with the 'racing vacuum pulley pumps'? How much did the electric vacuum pump
cost?
the
 

James Bell

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Yes, that vacuum relief valve is the same as the (pulley style) pumps use to control the vacuum pressure. The electric pump also comes with a relay and sensor to turn the pump on and off at 19-22 inches of vacuum. I am using the (adjustable) relief valve instead to fine tune the pressure for 15-18 inches of vacuum. I installed a vacuum gauge on the catch canister to monitor the vacuum. The pump is made by Stainless Steel Brakes. The kit comes with pump, pressure sensor, relay and harness for $250.00. It was made for brake booster/accessory vacuum, but can handle the crankcase evacuation as well (acording to the company).
 
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HP

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Why is there baffles in the cover? Just curious to know...

JP, the baffling is to direct the oil back down on the valve train and keep it
away from the cover gasket area- this prevents pooling around the gaskets where
it has a potential to leak. As far as the baffling keeping oil away from the
PVC valve - it does not. The oil simply runs up the back of the covers and onto the baffling-
then drains back. Factors that potentiate the problem - are the inertia of
acceleration pulling the oil to the back of the covers and the fact that motors
are angled, with the front slightly higher. The baffles do seem to aid in
preventing oil from splashing on the front vent hole - and water vapor is
just as easily drawn out the front, as the back - that is why I decided to
swap my vent and PCV valve locations. So far it has worked - I have 100 hard
miles on my motor since I did it, and the oil on the dipstick has stayed at exactly the same mark.
 
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