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Big Medicine

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I recently purchased a 96 GTS & whilst verifying filter manufacturer I noticed my car previously had a Nos system installed. I ordered new smooth tubes from Archer & went to put them on last night; decided to take all the hoses & electrical junk out. Task successfully completed but now I show a "Service Engine Light Soon" on the message center. We were very careful to follow only those components installed w/ the Nos system & removed carefully at the OEM spliced locations.

Any ideas on why this message is coming up? Also, the fan kicks on IMMEDIATELY after start up. Is this a computer reset? The Nos system had an electrical connection (harness) on the driver side throttle body (TB)(mass air sensor?). After removal, I noticed an older, OEM hasp lying underneath the TB covered in gunk like it hadn't been hooked up in a long time. Matched the hasp & color coded wires on the TB connection previously hooked up to the Nos System & figure3d it went there. Hooked it up & got the service light.

How did the car run when the OEM computer was not getting a signal from this TB connection?

All the parts are in my garage if anybody wants them. No bottles or pressure lines, but all electrical components, toggle switches, tubes w/ foggers, & what I'll refer to as master solenoid. I realy don't know what they are b/c of Nos ignorance, but they are where the main NO feed comes into the foggers.
 

Jack B

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If you think it would help I can fax you the NOS electrical schematic. In my opinion the use of the oem throttle postion sensor is a mistake, as in your case it is very difficult to put the car back to original. It is just as easy to add a throttle positon switch to the throttle shaft.

Your problem could also come from the intake air temperature sensor. They break this circuit and cut it into their harness. Take a look at the passenger side intake tube/air box and see if the air temp sensor is wired correctly.
 
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Big Medicine

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MIL codes:

1:2
2:2
2:3
5:5

Located both open circuits after I really dug in & unspooled some serious electrical tape. I closed the circuit for the coolant temp sensor near the PCM connection (code cleared & fan does not come on anymore) & will close the air temp sensor circuit at the air box later today. So, all things being equal, I should be back to stock with that code cleared.

However, after digesting some words of wisdom about run cycling & codes disappearing, I decided to venture to the local BP for some 95 octane yesterday, just to get one brief drive cycle in. She wouldn't crank after I filled her up. Plenty-o-juice but not firing. Apparently mass flooded though, b/c after I got home (flat bed) I disconnected the battery & unplugged the PCM connections for about 30 minutes while I was closing the coolant temp sensor circuit. I re-connected & re-plugged & turned her over.

The BIGGEST cloud of brown smoke billowed out & she ran very poorly for about 2 seconds. My helper claimed it was just flooded, & since my battery is about gone & will need to add jumpers for the next turn over, I did not attempt to start again. Too much re-arranging in the garage at a late hour.

Later today, I'll re-tape spliced connections & close the air temp sensor circuit, disconnect & re-connect battery & PCM again, & see what happens. After sitting all this time, surely it won't still be flooded. If I get the puff of smoke again, I'll just shut her down & come crying back.

Wish me luck.

Jack, thanks for the offer, but I believe I have found my problems. I may re-visit if I don't hit pay dirt this afternoon. Can you expound on your opinion relating to the stock TB connector? I'm not familiar with the throttle position switch. All I did was unhook the Nos harness connection at the TB & re-connect the previously dangling OEM hasp at that location. I don't think I changed out any actual sensors, but again, I'm stumbling here. Albeit not as much as the other day.

96 RT....got your message; call me & I'll give you an address where you can have a UPS pick up.
 

1TONY1

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If it still won't start it would only take 15 minutes to pull all the plugs and inspect for fuel to see if they are gas fouled. on the pass. side remove the four screws/bolts for easier access to the plugs.....if they are not wet then its not flooded.
 

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