Can't wait to hear your conclusions. I want to track and autocross and am interested in finding out what the optimal set up may be.
Please keep us posted 1
Went to Laguna Seca last weekend. Car handled very well after I got the tire pressure correct and set the Moton canisters set at 225 psi. Stayed right behind a ZR1. This was my first time and last time at this track.( explane later). Car rides so much better around town with the #600 rear springs and the canisters at about 110 psi. I think I may put the #500 from the front on the rear and try some #400 in the front. Next time I go to the track I will set the canisters at about 275-290 PSI. Lex at Moton said we could go to 300 psi. I am trying to get the best of both worlds. This may not be possible but hell we need something to work at.
As far as Laguna Seca butterfly chasing f--ks. They wanted to kick me out for the car being to loud. It is stock with a Corsa cat back. How could that be to loud? I will go to Thunder Hill from now on.
What is your ride height and rake set at??? The reason I ask is that even with 950# rears my car has worn through the rear inner fender liners from hard cornering and accelerating, I can't believe yours has not.
What is your ride height and rake set at??? The reason I ask is that even with 950# rears my car has worn through the rear inner fender liners from hard cornering and accelerating, I can't believe yours has not.
The ACRX has KW suspension, and this issue being discussed isn't a problem with the KW. The ACRX has stiffer springs than the ACR, but even the ACR doesn't rub the fender wall, at least when its set up correctly and with 19" tires in rear and recommended rake.
I think there is a place for bump stops just not on my cars. The abrupt hit of the stop will greatly affect the handling (generally not in a good way) when you are traveling fast or cornering at the limit. They do make longer more progressive stops but what is the point? with only a couple inches of travel you would be on them all the time so just up the spring rates till you have what you really need.
Went to Laguna Seca last weekend. Car handled very well after I got the tire pressure correct and set the Moton canisters set at 225 psi. Stayed right behind a ZR1. This was my first time and last time at this track.( explane later). Car rides so much better around town with the #600 rear springs and the canisters at about 110 psi. I think I may put the #500 from the front on the rear and try some #400 in the front. Next time I go to the track I will set the canisters at about 275-290 PSI. Lex at Moton said we could go to 300 psi. I am trying to get the best of both worlds. This may not be possible but hell we need something to work at.
As far as Laguna Seca butterfly chasing f--ks. They wanted to kick me out for the car being to loud. It is stock with a Corsa cat back. How could that be to loud? I will go to Thunder Hill from now on.
I design cars for a living, including suspension systems for several OEMs. Your comments in conjunction with rubbing the wheel liners is a bit extreme from my perspective.
The max jounce height is controlled by a bump stop in practically every vehicle on the road, regardless of where it's located on the damper, strut, suspension component, control arm, leaf spring, straight axle housing or on the chassis or frame. In design, an additional offset clearance value (+ bushing compliance) disregarding the bumpstop (design considers that the bushing may deteriorate over time to be safe, sometimes called steel on steel contact) is given around the tire (i.e. 10 mm or more) and for cars that can use snow chains, the clearance can be much more (i.e. 30 mm or more) so let's obviously ignore snow chain clearance on a Viper.. Given that you are rubbing the liners, the jounce wheel travel is going beyond the OEM design if the OEM wheel and tire is utlized. Extreme situations would be a hard turn with body roll and hitting a *** hole or bump. A tire rubbing the chassis is not good, there are steel components on the other side of the plastic liner (typically 3 mm thick), and if the tire rubs thru the liner and makes contact with a component, this can be dangerous. The halfshaft is designed to the max jounce and rebound travel of the suspension. There is a telescoping portion of the halfshaft to accomodate suspension travel, whether it's a CV joint on one end that can plunge and has an angle limit or a splined shaft with U-joint. Going beyond the extended limit of the halfshaft may result in a shaft pulling apart or the CV joint going beyond the angle it can accomodate internally. I do not know the length and angle limit of the halfshaft being used on your car, yet I'm just sharing a bit of design insight. Another option to control the body roll is obviously addressing the sway bar.
I just swapped to 600F and 850R and have been happy so far at the 5.25" rear height. I will get a better read for this after my first event. I also set rears at 120psi and fronts at 100psi for now. This lets me use more of the available adjustments for rebound and compression on the shock.
Installed #600 rear springs with my Motons. Changed out the #800. What a difference in the way the car rides. I will see what it does on the track in a few weeks. So far on the back roads feels pretty damn sticky.
Yes cavitation can occur at lower pressures than 100, but for short events and or autocrossing I will be fine. After about 200 miles at this set up I decided I will probably go up in 10 psi increments till I get the sweet spot for my tastes. We generally use 175 psi front and rear for the Clubsport set ups.