Low mileage cars and 'fixing' issue

[dodgestang]

I just bought a 96 GTS. It has 4k miles so pretty darn low miles. I find myself in a 'weird' place with this car because usually I just buy and drive cars that I 'collect' and put less than 500 miles a year on them.
This one I'm not sure what to do yet BUT I have to fix a small number of issues....first up is the lifts for the rear glass don't work. Does it matter if I find an source 'dodge' brand replacements or can I just use simple replacements without purists wanting to kill me in my sleep?

Amazon.com: Tuff Support 2-Piece Hatch Lift Supports (1996-2002) Dodge Viper Coupe : Automotive

Buy Tuff Support 2-Piece Hatch Lift Supports (1996-2002) Dodge Viper Coupe: Lift Supports - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[BoondocSaint]

Being a pre smart phone and high-speed internet car, I find that a lot of information about older Vipers has become lore at this point. Randos buying an old GTS won't know the difference and most dealers will know even less.

All of that being said, people wanting clean examples and willing to pay the right people or do the homework themselves may notice those small details. This forum is a wealth of knowledge for the discerning buyer. I'm a fence rider on this one, some cars I might care as a buyer and other cars not so much.

 

[dodgestang]

Amazon for the win on this one then. Maybe I'll do something out of my normal and just put the busted up originals in a box. That's what I'm planing on doing with the original wheels and tires at this point.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

I have air from 1996 saved I can sell you for the tires.

 

[yzf1999]

The good thing about your car is at just 4k miles you can actually drive the car and not kill its value…I bought my 97 GTS with 16k miles and put 850 miles on it this summer. For me part of the fun of owning the car is fixing things, maintenance and changing things to update the car and make it my own.

 

[dodgestang]

I have air from 1996 saved I can sell you for the tires.

Tire already have 96 air in them....they are original.

 

[MoparMap]

You may not even be able to buy OEM brand ones anymore, so it could be a moot point. I guess you could always try to find used take-offs that are still functional, but generally speaking I don't begrudge "wear items" all that much. I'm more concerned about it being a good brand than the "right" brand.

 

[Badinternet]

The aftermarket struts i bought were too wide for the alarm sensor on the driver’s side OEM strut. So now my sensor just hangs unattached, if you figure out a way around this or find a strut that fits (i think i bought several different types but none fit) let me/us know please!

 

[BoondocSaint]

I had the same issue so I tucked my sensor in rather than remove it. It is out of site out mind, and I can find different struts in the future. For now they are perfectly functional.

 

[Dan Cragin]

I believe the OEM Stabilis struts are available for $40

 

[viperkim]

I just bought a 96 GTS. It has 4k miles so pretty darn low miles. I find myself in a 'weird' place with this car because usually I just buy and drive cars that I 'collect' and put less than 500 miles a year on them.
This one I'm not sure what to do yet BUT I have to fix a small number of issues....first up is the lifts for the rear glass don't work. Does it matter if I find an source 'dodge' brand replacements or can I just use simple replacements without purists wanting to kill me in my sleep?

Amazon.com: Tuff Support 2-Piece Hatch Lift Supports (1996-2002) Dodge Viper Coupe : Automotive

Buy Tuff Support 2-Piece Hatch Lift Supports (1996-2002) Dodge Viper Coupe: Lift Supports - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

no big deal, buy what works, as time goes on original viper anything going fast

 

[serafins]

Being a pre smart phone and high-speed internet car, I find that a lot of information about older Vipers has become lore at this point. Randos buying an old GTS won't know the difference and most dealers will know even less.

All of that being said, people wanting clean examples and willing to pay the right people or do the homework themselves may notice those small details. This forum is a wealth of knowledge for the discerning buyer. I'm a fence rider on this one, some cars I might care as a buyer and other cars not so much.

I agree. It's not a 60s and 70s muscle car. The first (oldest) crowd that became interested in restoring those was fanatical about bolt finish, factory paint marks etc. This stuff was pretty well documented in magazines at the time and the factories kept extensive records on production.

This info barely ever existed on the vipers because they were hand built. Last week a guy came into my office who worked at Connors. He backed up what I had long thought, that there was no set process on how to assemble these cars until Gen 3. They were an experienced and tight knit group that just built them as best they could based on their own unwritten but mutually agreed upon ways. If they found some technique that made production a little easier or better they just implemented it. No change log was kept. Sometimes if they ran low on basic fasteners, they'd just send someone to go grab something that would work from nearby plants or suppliers.

Then the stuff that was documented by the VOA and the first owners of these cars was mostly documented on the early internet, and is now lost to time as the domains have long since expired. Not to mention the great photobucket F job of 2017 or whenever that was that decimated the forum history.

Plus as time goes on, the younger generations are less and less interested in OCD level originality. Case in point is the MkIV Supra. A totally stock car is often worth less than a totally modded car.

All that to say, I don't think it matters at all if you find NOS struts for the glass on this car. I bought the ones off eBay that were like $19 for two. They fit and work perfectly. They are somewhat overgassed, so I got away with just replacing one for now. Maybe you can do the same and not have to fool with the alarm switch.

 

[Bonkers]

I think its more important you use a quality
brand than a temu bin purchase, but other
than that i dont think non-oem gas struts
are going to alter the value on a 4k mile car
in any capacity...

 

[Dan Cragin]

I agree on all the above. I do want to mention one thing. The rear hatch glass does tend to detach from the metal mount that attaches it to the
rear glass and the struts attach to. Having aftermarket rear struts that allow the rear glass to pop open nicely when you turn the key because
of the extra gas pressure is great. More so when its cold out and the pressure is lower in the strut. Problem is, when hot, the rear hatch is hard to
close and the metal bracket that holds it to the glass can break loose. The rear glass, that comes with the metal bracket is no longer serviced.
To reglue it, takes special preparation and a specific glass glue. When done right, you have a 75% change of making a correct repair if the metal mount
is not bent. Something to consider when using aftermarket parts. Your experience may differ.

 

[dodgestang]

The aftermarket struts i bought were too wide for the alarm sensor on the driver’s side OEM strut. So now my sensor just hangs unattached, if you figure out a way around this or find a strut that fits (i think i bought several different types but none fit) let me/us know please!

I had no trouble with the sensor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IBMPHNY

 

[zombie]

One last thought, if you go to sell the car, just buy the OEM lift-struts then