Roller Rockers

[omegac1]

I have done some searches on this but still have a few questions. I am planning on going with the Harland Sharp 1.7 ratio rollers on my 1995. I want to also change to high strength push rods. If the engine is stock, what length rods do I need?

Also, this may be a stupid question but my sockets do not fit the valve cover bolts....a special tool needed?

 

[plumcrazy]

there is no solid right answer over the internet. someone like greg good can give a better educated guess but till you measure the pushrods, you wont know for sure

pushrod checker is cheap and needed to do this

 

[Dom426h]

Call SeanRoe @ ROE racing. He should have everything you need.
http://www.roeracing.com/

My valvecovers have a Torx hole in the center of the bolt. Thats what i use, i think T25

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[DrumrBoy]

What Plum said. You mention "if the engine is stock", you can really only be certain of that if you bought it new and never had the heads off. If the car had a previous owner, make sure you take (or have someone take) the correct measurements - as directed by someone who knows and then calculate the pushrod length type you need.

 

[omegac1]

My valve cover bolts do not have Torx holes in the center...they are just bolts. Its like the clearance between the valve cover "cutouts" and the bolt heads are thinner than a socket. Does this make any sense? Anyone with a 1995 know the trick?

 

[SNKEBIT]

You have to measure for the length of the pushrods. Get a crappy socket set and grind one down to fit.

 

[rpm9000]

I found the same thing on my 95 valve cover bolts. What I use is a 1/4" drive 7/16" socket. The 1"4 inch drive sockets have a thinner wall so they clear the valve cover.

 

[AndyMac]

Same thing on my 95, I just used a 1/4" socket/extension/ratchet. It was still tight, but it worked. Grinding down an old socket will make things easier though.

 

[Jack B]

Summit stocks the Comp Cam chrome moly, 080 wall thickness PR. They have them in a wide range in either 025 or .050 increments. Just a side point, if the heads are milled or merely new rockers are installed, the odds of having the the oem PR at the correct length are very low.

As was stated you have to measure them. Put #1 cylinder on TDC with the adjustable push rod installed, back off either rocker all the way (up), then, bring it down to the middle of the adjustment range and adjust the push rod so there is no play, that is your PR length. My T&D rockers have two full turns of range (0.100 in), therefore, I bring the them down one full turn, set the adjustable PR and that is the length. When they are installed you now have .050 adjustability in both directions. Just a guess, the range will be 7.425, down to 7.325, that is based upon a Gen II.

 

[Martin]

You might want to consider leaving 'regular strength' pushrods in the engine. They're the weak link in the valvetrain, and if something's going to break or bend, the pushrods are the best thing to have go out on you.

 

[omegac1]

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[Chuck 98 RT/10]

You might want to consider leaving 'regular strength' pushrods in the engine. They're the weak link in the valvetrain, and if something's going to break or bend, the pushrods are the best thing to have go out on you.

I agree with the "weak link" policy regarding drivetrain such as the halfshafts. But I'm not sure I agree when applying it to internals. Seems like anytime an internal goes you end up with a big mess no matter what it is, so it is best to build with the strongest parts available. JMO.