Sound system diagram?

[madman]

Does anybody have sound system diagram or does anybody know which speakers are which?

My wild guess is:

1 pair 3" windshield spkrs

1 pair component speakers (doors + tweaters behind the seat)

1 sub + 1 midrange (middle console)

Am I right or wrong?

I am asking since I want to change the door speakers and if these would be components this would have impact on choice

 

[Jim Z]

Dash speakers: 3/4" silk dome tweeters
door speakers: 6-1/2" midrange
rear fill speakers (behind seats): 2-3/4" midrange
sub: 6-1/2" woofer in ported enclosure between seats

amp: under passenger seat, 7 channels, 310 total watts:

- 2 x 25 watts RMS for tweeters
- 2 x 70 watts RMS for doors
- 2 x 25 watts RMS for rear fills
- 1 x 70 watts RMS for subwoofer.

 

[vincent_esq]

So that's is 7 speakers, right? Why does the spec for the viper say 5 speakers?

 

[Roadrunner]

The system is composed of an eight channel amp with 7 discrete drivers. (The sub is a dual voice coil unit).

In the green 16 way connector on the amp (at least for 03 / probably thru 05):
Wire Color & Description:
(Major color/stripe color)
OR/BK AMPLIFIED RIGHT INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEAKER (-)
OR/RD AMPLIFIED RIGHT INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEAKER (+)
WT/BK AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR WOOFER (-)
WT/RD AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR WOOFER (+)
WT/DG AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+)
WT/VT AMPLIFIED LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-)
TN/DG AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-)
TN/RD AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+)
YL/BK AMPLIFIED LEFT INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEAKER (-)
YL/RD AMPLIFIED LEFT INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEAKER (+)
TN/BK AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR WOOFER (-)
TN/VT AMPLIFIED RIGHT REAR WOOFER (+)
LG/VT AMPLIFIED LEFT DOOR SPEAKER (+)
LG/DG AMPLIFIED LEFT DOOR SPEAKER (-)
LB/DG AMPLIFIED RIGHT DOOR SPEAKER (-)
LB/VT AMPLIFIED RIGHT DOOR SPEAKER (+)

 

[Jim Z]

The sub is a dual voice coil unit

no it isn't. There are four output pins from the sub channel, but only two are used.

 

[madman]

allright, I do apologize for my lack of initiative - I took down the mesh and now I see it. Thank you for the information on amp though, very useful. so when we talk about upgrading the sound we must talk about components which is actually good news since there are plenty good components in $200-300 range.

Now the rear fill in speakers... are they any good? What range is going into them (if it's cut off at all). I'd say that if they'r supposed to bring highs then some quality tweeters might do the job (?)

 

[Jim Z]

Now the rear fill in speakers... are they any good?

They do the job. The EQ does the rest.

What range is going into them (if it's cut off at all).

I can't remember if they're high-passed at 200 or 500 Hz. I'd have to check. The high-pass is a hard filter in the amp.

 

[madman]

you say that the amp has crossover for components? I would be wondering how would high end components sound on the amp crossover...

 

[Jim Z]

well, the crossover points are pretty typical for a mid/tweet component setup. The only issue is that the tweeter level isn't adjustable.

However, the door speakers are only high-passed, not band-passed. So if you had a component set with its own crossover network, you could just remove the tweeters in the IP and run the component set off of the front door channels.

 

[Viper Specialty]

JIM-Z; Is the secondary channel for the Sub outputs a live driver...? or are the pins "just there?" Would it be possible to drive an additional subwoofer with the OEM amp through this unused channel?

 

[Jim Z]

Is the secondary channel for the Sub outputs a live driver...? or are the pins "just there?"

They're live, but it's still the same output channel. The two sets of pins are connected in parallel.

Would it be possible to drive an additional subwoofer with the OEM amp through this unused channel?

yes and no. You'd have to switch to 8 ohm woofers. The 70 watt channels are class-H amplifiers and cannot tolerate less than a 4 ohm load.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Thanks for the info.

You dont happen to know offhand, is the distortion from the sub in high-volume, high-bass situations a distortion rooted at the sub itself, or the amps inability to supply the needed power? I think that would give a better idea if it would be worth the time and $ to switch to dual 8-ohm subs.

 

[Jim Z]

I think that would give a better idea if it would be worth the time and $ to switch to dual 8-ohm subs.

Well, here's the thing- dual 8-ohm subs won't gain you very much. Roughly speaking, doubling the number of woofers would give you +3 dB of output, but since they'd be 8 ohm, they'd each be getting half the power, which means you'd lose 3 dB of output. It'd be a wash.

 

[Viperdriver]

My '04 Service Manual shows a dual coil woofer with both coils being used. Is this an error?

 

[Jim Z]

Must be.

 

[madman]

And now I am screwed. I successfully added CD changer with AUX input, successfully meaning that it was working during the test phase when cable were just (somehow) attached. I finally worked out where the changer's going to be, made final cabling and when I connected radio again - it was dead! But it was not radio which was dead, I am not getting any power to it! I tried to substitute RB1 with the original stock and neither of them shown any sign of life.

I checked all fuses, the are ok. Does anybody have an idea why am I not getting any power to radio harness? Is there another hidden something?

 

[vincent_esq]

Well, at least we know it's not the RB1 that died....and it's just electrical. This may be a dumb question, but you were at it all day yesterday, did you turn the ignition key on? By the way, thanks for helping shorten the shifter. It's much better now.

 

[madman]

... and dumb question it is. I finally discovered possible cause - it looks as if one of the relays in the fusebox is fried - it gets very hot. I would say thay it's because I drew power for the changer from the radio input thus exceeding the amp restrictions. Why do they control this by relay in the fusebox vs. standard fuse by the radio itself remains a mystery (for me). Oh well, at least I know what's going on.

Now I have to try some DVD audio discs to see if the changer can read them. I can also try to burn dvds with audio only. That just on top of my Ipod - did I mention that DVD changer has AUX in and I carry Ipod in the mid compartment

I am glad you enjoy short shifter.

 

[vincent_esq]

Hey Madman, I saw you again today in your viper! Sunday around 5:00 by the Country Club. I was in the Black Pilot behind you before you turned into Thornton.

 

[DPViper]

Thank you all for the great information on the stereo.

I am looking to replace the speakers only if possible but I don't want to spend time/money upgrading something that doesn't make an improvement. It appears most guys have had good success with replacing the door speakers so I expect to do that first.

A few questions:

1. If the door speakers are midrange, is it better to replace the door and dash speakers with a component set rather than just the doors.

2. Is it worth upgrading the sub if the sub amp is only 70 watts and the speaker is only 6.5 inches? If yes, does it need to be a duel coil? Should it be 4 ohms?

3. Is it worth upgrading the fill speakers behind the headrests? The originals distort when the volume is turned up. Is there a problem with just turning them off or disconnecting them? When I fade to the front, the sub still seems to work.

Any other suggestions and/or comments would be very much appreciated.