Sway bar end link replacement.

[Jance GTS]

I want to change out my end link boots and today I noticed that the end links are different from the standard straight rods that I am used too. If I replaced the ball joint end link setup with a standard straight end link, will this cause any problems?

I was thinking of swapping them out with these. (Not actual length)

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[plumcrazy]

there is a thread kicking around on this. i think sean roe sells a direct replacement

 

[Jance GTS]

Thanks! I looked on his website and I didn't see anything other than the sway bar bushings. I have a 2000 GTS.

Looking for a thread now...

 

[Jance GTS]

I still can't find anyone that has them for a Gen 2?

 

[Jance GTS]

I've looked everywhere and I still can't find any straight end links with ball joints. Are these standard on all Gen 2's or just ACR's? I like the setup but I might just get ones without the ball joints.

I've seen some for around $200 but thats a lot more than I want to spend.

 

[bigmack339]

snake-oyl.com

 

[Jance GTS]

snake-oyl.com

I've already looked at their site but for what they have is way to high for what I need.

I was thinking about going with no ball joint end links, but after looking at my before pictures, I don't think they would last and probably get bent.

My factory ones are now trash because I had to use a hammer to remove them and the threads are messed up and the boots are split.

I really want polyurethane bushings instead of the stock ones, but I will probably have to order some from the dealership.

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[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

The poly endlinks will squeak and not be as good at making the bar effective. It will work just like installing a softer bar. I would bite the bullet and go with the Ball joint style again or the stock ones.

 

[GTS Dean]

Mark,

What other Mopar vehicles use the same style end links?

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

I don't know of one that uses the same length ones.

 

[Jerome Sparich]

Mark,

What other Mopar vehicles use the same style end links?

How long are those? They look like the ones on my Dakota.

 

[Jance GTS]

How long are those? They look like the ones on my Dakota.

From point to point they are around 9.5 inches and the center from base to base is 4 1/4" apart.

If you are thinking about taking these off, DO NOT! I just talked to Chuck Tator about replacing these...

Front sway-bar link MSRP $193.55 each, rear sway-bar link MSRP $179.00 each! Total for all four $745.10 less 20% VCA discount [-$149.02] = $596.08 plus shipping.

There has to be a cheaper solution??? That's just crazy!

 

[Jerome Sparich]

Maybe tomorrow I will crawl under my truck and measure them.

For those prices, do you get the lube to go along with the ^@*% you get?

 

[Jance GTS]

I'm pretty sure that's not included LOL.

What year is your Dakota? I just looked at a 2002 and they are completely different from the Viper. I would hate to replace these with regualar straight ones, but $200 each is just plain crazy...

 

[Jerome Sparich]

Mine is a 2005

The pics I pull up when looking them up is a "generic" pic.

IIRC, mine look exactly the same.

 

[Jance GTS]

I might be able to make my own if I can find a screw in ball joint from the end instead of the side.

Something kind of like this.

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[Jance GTS]

Let me know what you find out on your Dakota. Surely there is another vehicle with these on it for a cheaper price.

 

[steve911]

If you take and cut open you original end links you will find that the ball actually rests on a chunk of nylon/delrin. there is no rubber on the inside.

The comp coupes also use the stock style end links unless they have removed them and are running the blade type sway bar. The stock end link on one side (front and rear) was cut in half and a threaded adjuster inserted to help with preload for suspension adjustment. The ACR-X uses stock style too.

I guess what I am trying to say is that why change what works? I know you now have to replace yours becasue they are buggered up.

 

[Jance GTS]

I guess what I am trying to say is that why change what works? I know you now have to replace yours becasue they are buggered up.

I was doing other mods to my car and noticed that the boots needed to be replaced so I removed the end links which damaged the threads in the process.

I will be going back to what I have but I need to replace both of them now since the boots and threads are bad. I didn't know they would be that expensive! $200 for each link is insane!

I've already been told, that I need the ball joints unless I want to risk breaking my lower a arms...

 

[Jerome Sparich]

Let me know what you find out on your Dakota. Surely there is another vehicle with these on it for a cheaper price.

My bad back is acting up, I will get under there tomorrow for sure.

 

[Jance GTS]

I found out that the SRT-10 Viper trucks have this setup! But only one end has a ball joint. And since it's a "Viper" they are probably the same price.

 

[Jerome Sparich]

Just checked mine on the truck.

The lower end is the same with the "ball joint".
The upper end that goes to the anti-roll bar, is the "normal" type with bushings.

Approx. 4.25" between each joint (the shaft length)
Approx 10" long overall.

Cost. -
MOOG Part # K750263 $24.79 each from Rock Auto
(pic shown is not accurate!)

I would try this part, substitute urethane bushings, and give it a try. What can it hurt?

I know on trucks with the type I have, substituting conventional links with urethane bushings for the stock ones seem to work better and last longer. Much stronger than this BS joint type.
Mine are being changed soon when I do new struts on the truck.

 

[Jance GTS]

So your Dakota looks something like this?

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This is what the SRT-10 Trucks have. I can't find a picture of the ones from Moog. Is it $25 for both end links? Or what? Thanks for looking!

 

[Jerome Sparich]

Mine look just like that with the center "rod" being longer by the looks of it. Approx. 4.25"

I would think that style is much stronger as it has so much more lbs to deal with on the truck vs the car. That is another reason the "truck guys" are switching over away from the stock ones like I have, that match the Viper.

The pic Rock Auto shows is incorrect. It should look just like you put above.

$24.79 each

Hey, for $50 you could either be a Hero for proving this will be a less costly fix, or be out a whopping $50.

 

[Jance GTS]

That is another reason the "truck guys" are switching over away from the stock ones like I have, that match the Viper.

I think I understand, but these don't match the Viper? For $50 I don't see the harm in trying. I would think it would be a little better if the one that mounts to the sway bar doesn't move as much?

Looking into this now. I wonder if they are the same thickness so I don't have make my mounting holes any bigger. What did you search to find the part number for the Moog part?

 

[Jance GTS]

Quick question. I have removed my tie rod from the spindle for a few different reasons. All I did was unbolt it and pull it out from the spindle. When I go to put it back in the spindle, will this mess up my alignment? Or should I be fine because I didn't unscrew or extend the tie rod? I hope that made sense?

 

[GTS Dean]

Just checked mine on the truck.

The lower end is the same with the "ball joint".
The upper end that goes to the anti-roll bar, is the "normal" type with bushings.

Approx. 4.25" between each joint (the shaft length)
Approx 10" long overall.

Cost. -
MOOG Part # K750263 $24.79 each from Rock Auto
(pic shown is not accurate!)

I would try this part, substitute urethane bushings, and give it a try.

If you take and cut open you original end links you will find that the ball actually rests on a chunk of nylon/delrin. there is no rubber on the inside.

The comp coupes also use the stock style end links unless they have removed them and are running the blade type sway bar. The stock end link on one side (front and rear) was cut in half and a threaded adjuster inserted to help with preload for suspension adjustment. The ACR-X uses stock style too.

I guess what I am trying to say is that why change what works? I know you now have to replace yours becasue they are buggered up.

Front sway-bar link MSRP $193.55 each, rear sway-bar link MSRP $179.00 each! Total for all four $745.10 less 20% VCA discount [-$149.02] = $596.08 plus shipping.

There has to be a cheaper solution??? That's just crazy!

I would buy two sets of the cheapos, cut off the end links that don't match, set them up in a jig and MIG weld them to the correct length cold rolled rod stock to match OEM. As soon as each end was welded, I'd drop the assemblies in a bucket of water to cool before welding the opposite sides. A little emery cloth, a can of Krylon black, and I'm in business.

 

[steve911]

Check Chrysler Cirrus and Dodge Stratus family of cars. they use similar end links.