Under the Car and have a last minute question

[sirhc76]

96 GTS to start. I know every thread I have read recommends using mopar 75-85 part# 04874459 and I have 4 quarts and a spare ready to go. I also read that there will be a sticker on the side of the trans that affirms this. Now when I pull the belly pan I see this:

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I'm assuming this was prior to the TSB and this tranny has never been touched since then. I'm going back in with the 75W-85.

 

[dave6666]

Look at the color of what comes out. Don't know if DEXRON III is red like other ATF, but the Syntorq is a clear yellowish. Even used it is only slightly darker.

And man, put some miles on that car. Looks too clean to need a fluid change.

 

[sirhc76]

Fluid was blood red and thank you for the quick reply. That drain plug is a pain in the **** to get out. I wanted to change all the fluids since I just bought the car and have no idea of the previous owners diligence or lack thereof on fluid changes. This car has me pulling my hair out anyhow. I'm use to recognizing a rattle or a noise as an issue, if I did that I would never be able to drive it. I have been cleaning and still have plenty of work ahead of me. Diff is next after I get the tranny refilled with the mityvac.

And on a side note. I kept wondering about the skip shift that I was reading about. Now I know why I have no issues with it, the harness is zip tied to the side of the wire loom and not plugged in.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Dexron III was used into 1998 model year...then Castrol Syntorq (also bottled as Mopar Synthetic Manual Trasnmission Lub. 75W-85) became standard. The May 1998 TSB on Neutral Gear Rattle "allowed" use of the Syntorq in Viper transmissions 1994-1998 for the purpose of treating NGR. The new stuff will work FINE...though it will feel "stiffer" when shifting til the fluid warms up a little bit.

If you need torque specs, call me on 1-317-402-9013.

 

[Viper Wizard]

The reson that one has ATF in it is because the synchro's are fiber and using 75W-85 sinthetic trans oil in cooler temps [below 50'] may make it had to shift? The synthetic oil does not soke in as well as ATF on the fiber synchro's at low temps.

 

[dave6666]

Given the sticker and the color, I'd go back with DEXRON.

You might want to look into the skip shift kit. It provides a cleaner approach to the unplug and tie method. Some will say that is stupid, but I spent $50.00 on my $50,000.00 car for that and feel just spiffy.

Use the search feature if you want to research that.

 

[Steve-Indy]

dave6666, I agree with you...especially if one is not tracking the Viper, Dexron III works FINE...and, that is exactly what I use in our 95, 96, and 97. With track use, many lean toward the synthetic side. I DO use Syntorq in the 99, 01 and 03 as it was the "factory fill".

Interestingly, a Club member from "downstate" called me last week noting that their local Dodge dealer claimed that they could no longer get the Mopar Dexron III. As I have a stash, I have not checked into that as yet.

Chuck ???

 

[Steve-Indy]

For thosew "wanting more" info...or, lack there-of:

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-g...viper-magazine-t-56-trans-fluid-question.html

 

[dave6666]

Good info Steve and Chuck. Ya'll hist post while I was still typing.

I will bookmark this post for the next time someone asks.

Other than that, my mechanical protocol is simple: Put back in what came out if the decal matches!

Protocol #2 is to read every post here and learn even more.

 

[sirhc76]

I read this http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-g...viper-magazine-t-56-trans-fluid-question.html as well, good info. I'm guessing that as mentioned going back in with the 75W-85 I will be ok. I would assume that no damage would occur due to the fluid, it might just make it harder on the shifts. I can tell you that I have a nice and loud neutral gear rattle with the ATF that came out. I also read the skip shifts post and have shrink wrapped the open end of the plug for now.

 

[sirhc76]

Nine hours of labor and I'm finally done, had a few coffee breaks. I have now flushed the radiator, brakes, clutch, transmission, diff and cleaned/oil my air filters. The brake fluid had all kinds of crap in the lines and its now running clear. I did find that the previous owner had replaced the front pad with green EBCs. The refill of the tranny with 75w-85 makes the shifts much more firm and you can feel each gear.

I also had a huge amount of "slop" in the rear end prior to the change. On down shifts, while not under power, I would get some banging noise in the rear end. That noise coupled with the whine under power on turns furthered this thought. Now that is all gone and the rear end seems to be in working order. I was actually able to siphon 44oz of fluid out of the rear diff with a mightyvac. I got some trash out although there was nothing on the magnet I dragged through the fluid. While I had the belly pan off I knocked any grime off with some simple green and elbow grease. Thanks for all the assistance, I can now actually drive the car and not worry about it.

Now to get the purse holder to let me replace my wheels. I have a little curb rash on two of them and it really bothers me.

Chris

 

[KenH]

Good job on getting all the fluids changed. Did you add the friction modifier to the rear differential?

 

[sirhc76]

Good job on getting all the fluids changed. Did you add the friction modifier to the rear differential?

4oz added prior to the diff oil.

 

[Asp Man]

It's pretty clear that you're a do it yourselfer, like a lot of us around here. One thing you should do is to get your status updated to owner.

 

[Kmrumedy]

Now to get the purse holder to let me replace my wheels. I have a little curb rash on two of them and it really bothers me.

Chris

Hey Chris,

I really liked this post. I like reading do it yourself projects. I got my car last season in May and did a complete fluid change like you. Just passing along one bit of info that was given to me when I first got my car....

I had a little curb rash on two of my wheels and I was going to change them right away before I logged any driving time. I wanted my car perfect. It was suggested by others here, if I could wait long enough, to log a bunch of time behind the wheel before changing them. I didn't understand why at first until I drove the car and had to park it for the first time in a tighter space.

The cars size takes some getting used to even for very good drivers. I've had times when I purposely thought I parked several feet away from an obstacle only to get out and find my wheel was inches away.

It would **** to put on new wheels on and scuff them up right away. It was a good suggestion and I am glad I listened.....plus next season.....I get to update my Viper!!

 

[sirhc76]

Status will be changed from enthusiast to member in the next week. I need to pull some money out of the slush fund to pay dues. I have been squeezing cash for this project out of the wife since I told her it was needed maintenance.

Thanks for the advice on the wheels. I currently have a Ram SRT10 and am all overly familiar with parking spaces. I have managed to get zero curb rash on those wheels and it’s a big truck to park.

I know of a company locally that will repair the wheels for $120 each and this may be an option. I have seen a few of their repairs and they do a great job. The clear as other mention may never look right so I have also been thinking about getting them Perma Star coated. This will all take sometime, I merely mentioned the wheel repair tonight and my wife almost smacked me.

Chris