Nightmare clutch... HELP... !

Jeffsss

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From a previous thread I couldn't get my '97 GTS to engage into gear about a month ago. After researching and talking to chuck tator the diagnosis was a bad slave cylinder.
I had the car brought to a local shop where they inspected the transmission. The slave cylinder was replaced.

This was completed 5/31/13 @ 21946 miles.. well since then I drove it to the store a couple times and it worked flawlessly. Today I drive it to a car show, cars and coffee and I notice the clutch had short travel about 1/2 way there... I turn around and go home in fear of something wrong.

well going home and getting to the last stop light, I had a real tough time getting it into gear, it finally went and I limped it home.

took it out of gear in the garage and tried to put it in reverse. no luck.

So what's happening? what could cause this to happen again? I checked fluid level and it was good.

I purchased the slave cylinder from Dodge parts and had it towed to a local shop. I got to think the shop will hold some sort of accountability??
 

99 R/T 10

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If your fluid level is still good, it could be the master has gone bad. Much easier to replace, but doesn't mean the slave isn't the culprit either. The last slave cyl. I got was from Autozone. Lifetime warranty, if it fails again, I can just swap it out. Good luck.
 

AZTVR

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In my opinion, the shop can't be held accountable if it is a bad clutch slave cylinder since you bought the part and contracted for them to install it. It depends on what your arrangement was. Shops charge a lot for parts because they are a profit item; but, also, they are on the hook for the labor for replacing bad parts that they procured and installed. A pro mechanic can chime in with the real scoop.
 

Grisoman

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Is the reservoir full? Check for wetness behind the footwell carpet.
 
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Jeffsss

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I text my mechanic... he said.. it might be the master. then he said dont worry. we'll fix it.

I will say I like his confidence
 
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Jeffsss

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update..

just talked to my mechanic. advised me to go pump the clutch 30 X and see if it slips into gear easier.. it did. which leads him to believe it's the master cylinder now.

this just stinks.. they checked it literally 2 weeks and 40 miles ago and it was fine.
 

AZTVR

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update..

just talked to my mechanic. advised me to go pump the clutch 30 X and see if it slips into gear easier.. it did. which leads him to believe it's the master cylinder now.

Not really a surprise in that the two pieces are in the same system. The master is near the exhaust manifold and both are subject to the same hot and possibly degrade fluid. Was the fluid changed on a regular basis? Moisture absorbed in brake fluid doesn't do good things to the metals in the cylinders.
 
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Jeffsss

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Not really a surprise in that the two pieces are in the same system. The master is near the exhaust manifold and both are subject to the same hot and possibly degrade fluid. Was the fluid changed on a regular basis? Moisture absorbed in brake fluid doesn't do good things to the metals in the cylinders.

no, fluids were not changed since I've owned it. (2 years~).. the previous owner said that he did a few years before I purchased. but to be quite honest I never followed up, it very well may be factory fluids.

and also to all.. sorry about the panic post. just so very frustrating when you've only driven your car 50 miles and it's broken again.
 

AZTVR

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no, fluids were not changed since I've owned it. (2 years~).. the previous owner said that he did a few years before I purchased. but to be quite honest I never followed up, it very well may be factory fluids.

So, if the clutch fluid is old, then what about the brake fluid? Just sayin'
 

Mutts02GTS

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If you pumped it thirty plus times and it worked you could have air in the system, have them bleed the clutch system first, could be a much cheaper fix!
 

VIPER BAZ UK

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Did a slave two weeks ago put it all together and still no pedal, master was shot also ... Slave had been gone for a while so was being topped up and bled every week or less which I guess put extra strain on the masters seals and took that out as well.....
 

jdeft1

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It's all been said. ( I'd bet that's the first time anyone's ever swapped clutch fluid in your '97 ?) .......

Bring it back to the same guys who replaced the slave. Could be air in the system but probably not IMO, be ready to also replace the master.
 
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Jeffsss

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I am prepared for it to be the master. From what I understand its much less expensive of a part and labor.
 

Dan Cragin

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You really need to pull out the clutch and inspect it as well, that should be the starting point with the age and mileage of the car. Then work your way out. I have found with that mileage and year, the problem may be the clutch. These systems are hard to bleed as well, requiring a pressure bleeder to really get all the air out.

Dan
 
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Jeffsss

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Thanks Dan. Ill consider this although I just forked out the coin to drop it 2 weeks ago.
 

jimuaya

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on my viper 95, because I put belanger headers on mine and I didn't realize that the master cylinder line was touching the headers, so the fluid got hot and I couldn't shift gears, so you might want to check the line. After I fixed it, I haven't had any problems since.
 
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Jeffsss

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on my viper 95, because I put belanger headers on mine and I didn't realize that the master cylinder line was touching the headers, so the fluid got hot and I couldn't shift gears, so you might want to check the line. After I fixed it, I haven't had any problems since.

I'll suggest that to my mechanic as well.

does anyone know how many hrs a shop will typically charge for master cylinder replacement..

I realize that it cost money to own nice things.. but I just spent about 1k for parts/labor on the slave.
 

99 R/T 10

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I'll suggest that to my mechanic as well.

does anyone know how many hrs a shop will typically charge for master cylinder replacement..

I realize that it cost money to own nice things.. but I just spent about 1k for parts/labor on the slave.

Jeez, for $1K, I would have drove to your house and done it. A slave should not be more than 4 hours total. With parts, it should have cost about $400 parts/labor assuming $70 per/hr shop rate.
 
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Jeffsss

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Jeez, for $1K, I would have drove to your house and done it. A slave should not be more than 4 hours total. With parts, it should have cost about $400 parts/labor assuming $70 per/hr shop rate.


Just the slave was $300 shipped to me.
6 hrs @ $70 and I had to get it towed and misc... Shop parts
 

Solid Red 98

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Just remember that every time you activate one, the other moves, so I have always replaced these together to avoid digging into the system twice. Of course the slave cylinder gets the harsher operating environment, and ages more rapidly, I prefer to have both ends of the system new at the same time.
 
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Jeffsss

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Just remember that every time you activate one, the other moves, so I have always replaced these together to avoid digging into the system twice. Of course the slave cylinder gets the harsher operating environment, and ages more rapidly, I prefer to have both ends of the system new at the same time.

well hopefully this one lasts 15 years like the original. lol
 
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Jeffsss

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just an update. It was the master. and it was replaced.

I thought all was well but after driving it around I feel like the pedal has too much play, with some spirited driving it takes a little more effort to get it into the next gear.. I never had this problem before.

any ideas? I plan on asking my mechanic on Monday.. just got it back this past Friday.
 

ACELLR8

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Could be the clutch or pressure plate itself. Makes no sense to drop the Tranny and put a slave cylinder in and not replace the clutch disk assembly, especially when the OEM LUK can be purchased for $180 complete.
 

Grisoman

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anyone? My mechanic isnt sure. I guess the only way to be sure is a tear down?
Bummer. I'm confused . . . you also bought a slave and didn't install it? How do you know it isn't also the slave? Everything bled out properly through the slave?
 
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