Another trailer question

I have both. You dont really walk along side and steer. Get it pointed straight before you winch it on. Its too easy to get hurt trying "actively" guide it in...

An escape door is a necessity. If you arent able to open the door, how are going to put on the ebrake and put the car in gear? trying to lean in an open window is a recipe for body scratches.

Its easier to drive the car out than winch it out.

I have ramp overs in my trailer. The car is actually up 14" from the floor of the trailer. You gets lots of trailer storage UNDER the Car.

 

Winch it on Just point it straight, no need to walk along. Get both the winch and door if you can. If you chose only one, get a winch

 

I have regret of not having a door. Would strongly recommend.

 

Smart the door is a must

 

Smart approach. You won't regret your choices.

 

Curious about your trailer, does the wheel box inside allow you to open the car door ? Most wheel boxes are too high...trailers are being built now that lower on the axles....just curious then IF you need the side door, you said the trailer is 102 etc, the real iimportant distance is the width getween the wheel housing boxes, most all newer trailers can get to about 79 inches and that is all !! I believe in the winch, most of the time I am by myself loading, you really can't trust people giuding you in ...I put down a black tape line on the floor and then winch the car in watching the tape line and then step up on the box and reach in to set brake and put into gear....just my $.02

 

Just an input, my research when I started towing led me to putting the trans in neutral and e-brake on. The theory being that the car will rock back and forth, driving the crank, camshaft, & pistons back and forth with no active lubrication. Perhaps the wear is actually inconsequential; but, it seems better to me to have it in neutral for the long tows that I typically do.

 

It won't clear the wheel wells. The trailer that we had built has custom Alum ramps bolted to the floor to give enough height to clear the side of the trailer and open the cars door all the way. It took some time to figure out the setup and measurements. Fits a gen 4 ACR with track alignment without any problems.

 

Be sure NOT to set the alarm as you will kill the battery , I know this from experience.

 

How is the motor going to move when the car is tied down on the inside of the trailer? Or aren't you tying yours down?

 

I have a 27'x8.5 ft wide trailer. Before I put my rampovers in, (I wanted the extra Storage) my '06 coupe coupe fit just fine between the wheel wells and that is with less than 3" vertical clearance on the splitter.

 

I definitely do strap mine down. Movement would only be due to the give/stretch in the straps. I don't know how much that would translate to in the engine or whether it would cause any measurable wear in 10,000 miles of towing. Since the straps and the ebrake hold the car, I figured I wasn't losing anything by taking the advice of several others on putting it in neutral.

 

I have probably double of your 10000 hauling My Viper around. The straps flex just a fraction of an inch. Open your hood with the car in gear(1st or Reverse) look at the engine and try and push the car. Your efforts will probably take up the drive line lash and thats it.

Having it in gear is just more security.

 

Bingo....the Ford GT guys think this is gospel (the part of the motor cylinder wearing since the pistons are moving up and down due to vibration when the car is in gear).....if the car is moving around that much you've done a terrible job strapping it down.

I love having a winch centrally mounted in the trailer. Sometimes the car cannot be driven in since the motor may have issues, etc. Never an issue to load a car by myself if I have a winch. Can't push it up if I'm alone....just something to think about.

Something else to thing about. In a serious trailer accident, most of the tie down points will rip out of the floor (most are just through the plywood without any major backing plates attached to the frame rails) and the car will break free. Take a look at the underside of your trailers to verify that the tie down points have some sort of backing plate and or frame attachment to be on the safe side. Many tie down points use very low quality screws or bolts, often times smaller than 1/4".

Cheers,
George

 

Back to whatever length trailer you get, "usually" you put the car in the trailer over the trailer wheels, because of weight and balance...so if the trailer is 20 foot or 24 feet ?? still usually put car over the trailer wheels and not put too much tongue weight...you mentioned about how hard it is to get out of the car IN the trailer, this is the main reason to use a winch for loading/unloading, and always check that you are loading the car UPHILL, makes life a little safer ...my $.02

 

Thousands of trailer miles and tons of track/race days here. I use both the winch and drive in. There are many reasons to use the winch to pull the car in and even let it out (unload). If I have help I will drive it up since its just faster. As to keeping the car in gear while its being transported is a big NO WAY, NEVER EVER, DON'T DO IT in my book. Ebrake is great if you still have that on the car but don't engage it if you just got off the track and are quickly heading home!!!! I use two chains with R-hooks on the front tie down rings and two large straps to pull it tight, crossing in the rear. After its tied down I use two small chalks in front of (a front and rear tire). This setup keeps the car absolutely rock solid with no play.