Jim Pollock
Viper Owner
Hello----quick question----what is the best battery for my 2001 GTS ? Need to replace it. Thanks----
Battery
- Thread starter Jim Pollock
- Start date
Steve-Indy
VCA Venom Member
Expect all types of answers...from dirt cheap to expensive...and several other "factors" such as painful to change, battery weight, brand loyalty, "Granny always used this", warranty, and ease of exchange if it suffers premature failure,..to name a few.
I prefer (after 29 years of experience of changing batteries placed behind the left rear wheel ) to use AGM batteries due to their general length of service.
At present, there are 5 of our Vipers with Interstate MTZ group 78 batteries in the left rear wheel location.
I am also fond of Odyssey Group 34 AGM in 3 later Vipers...as one is going on 17 years of age with two others around 15 years old.
Most ride tenders...while 3 Vipers get recharged monthly.
Do what suits YOU.
I prefer (after 29 years of experience of changing batteries placed behind the left rear wheel ) to use AGM batteries due to their general length of service.
At present, there are 5 of our Vipers with Interstate MTZ group 78 batteries in the left rear wheel location.
I am also fond of Odyssey Group 34 AGM in 3 later Vipers...as one is going on 17 years of age with two others around 15 years old.
Most ride tenders...while 3 Vipers get recharged monthly.
Do what suits YOU.
Tom and Vipers
Enthusiast
If replacing the battery, you might want to seriously consider installing a battery cutoff switch since so many procedures start with: Disconnect Battery (thinking that is easy to do.)
This is OT, but I have a GTS and had a Charger rent a car for 3 months. Imagine my bamboozlement:
(The V bat is similarly located, however they got the floor on the wrong side.)
(...and the location of the trunk mini-fuse block isn't award-winning either...)
GTS Designers when done: "Hey... where's the battery go?" (could be a good Larson cartoon)
This is OT, but I have a GTS and had a Charger rent a car for 3 months. Imagine my bamboozlement:
(The V bat is similarly located, however they got the floor on the wrong side.)
(...and the location of the trunk mini-fuse block isn't award-winning either...)
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GTS Designers when done: "Hey... where's the battery go?" (could be a good Larson cartoon)
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ENLIGN
Enthusiast
OPTIMA Yellow top AGM is what I just purchased for my 2014 GTS after much research. I chose this because one it's AGM, but I only drive the car a few times per month. It's lighter than most and holds a charge with infrequent use.
white out
Enthusiast
I run Antigravity: drops 20lbs+ off the car; easier to handle during installation because of the weight (this doesn't matter if you have someone else installing); & auto jumpstart feature is handy.
totally worth the potential of a run-away lithium fire
matt dillon
Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
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- 78
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Lol, like you said Steve, J is asking about a battery for his 2001 & is getting all kind of answers for different Gen. cars!
Steve-Indy
VCA Venom Member
Admittedly, it is hard to predict a given battery brand's longevity...especially since said brand MAY have changed their specs either in a good or bad direction. There are many brands, but only a few manufacturers.
Since I draw mostly from my own 29 year Viper experiences, I have learned to stagger the battery changes amongst the Vipers so that I am not too heavily invested in a given run of batteries at a set point in time.
Faithful use of battery float (smart) tenders and smart chargers certainly extends battery life...as does "sleep mode" on Gen Iii's, IV's, and V's. I always make sure that I am using the correct unit for the type of battery in the cars.
Though I am a big fan of the AGM type, I have found that charging them from a low charge state can require different methods as well as close monitoring. It is not as simple as I thought in my younger days.
It seems as though the wicked summer heat across the country is causing a wave of battery failures in stored Vipers...as would be predicted. If one is facing the purchase of a new battery, (and their ever increasing cost), my own advice is to check the date sticker...buying newly produced rather than one on the shelf for several months. Next, check the resting voltage, load test, and cold crank readings at the store before buying...being sure that the battery has not been charged in the last 30 minutes which could give one inflated positive readings. Finally, charge the battery fully BEFORE installing it in a car...then let it sit off charger for 24 hours, and recheck readings. If OK, install battery. If questionable, return to store. All of that said...when in a pinch, do what you have to do !!!
Since I draw mostly from my own 29 year Viper experiences, I have learned to stagger the battery changes amongst the Vipers so that I am not too heavily invested in a given run of batteries at a set point in time.
Faithful use of battery float (smart) tenders and smart chargers certainly extends battery life...as does "sleep mode" on Gen Iii's, IV's, and V's. I always make sure that I am using the correct unit for the type of battery in the cars.
Though I am a big fan of the AGM type, I have found that charging them from a low charge state can require different methods as well as close monitoring. It is not as simple as I thought in my younger days.
It seems as though the wicked summer heat across the country is causing a wave of battery failures in stored Vipers...as would be predicted. If one is facing the purchase of a new battery, (and their ever increasing cost), my own advice is to check the date sticker...buying newly produced rather than one on the shelf for several months. Next, check the resting voltage, load test, and cold crank readings at the store before buying...being sure that the battery has not been charged in the last 30 minutes which could give one inflated positive readings. Finally, charge the battery fully BEFORE installing it in a car...then let it sit off charger for 24 hours, and recheck readings. If OK, install battery. If questionable, return to store. All of that said...when in a pinch, do what you have to do !!!
white out
Enthusiast
a 30 year old wheel bearing is a bigger concern of fire than a lithium battery.
Goggles Pizano
Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2009
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Spoken like someone who sells Li batteries and not bearings. )
)A 30 year old wheel bearing has no risk of burning down your house while you sleep
white out
Enthusiast
No, we leave that job to the power steering reservoir & hoses.
Ive heard nightmares on lithium power tool batteries,
i dont think i will ever trust them in my car... that being
said, OPTIMA's quality fell into the ******* since they
moved production to Mexico. I had a yellow top last in
my jeep for almost 13 years... it wasnt healthy, but it
started the truck... Keep in mind that trickle chargers do
not fully stabilize AMG/GelPack batteries - if you go that
route and use a trickle to keep it alive you need at least
a 5amp power source.
Ive never tried Odyssey, i have friends who love them,
but i stick to Optima Red Tops or Classic DieHards if i
want to be cheap. I am currently running two Dekas in
my Excursion that have performed well beyond their
pay grades too...
i dont think i will ever trust them in my car... that being
said, OPTIMA's quality fell into the ******* since they
moved production to Mexico. I had a yellow top last in
my jeep for almost 13 years... it wasnt healthy, but it
started the truck... Keep in mind that trickle chargers do
not fully stabilize AMG/GelPack batteries - if you go that
route and use a trickle to keep it alive you need at least
a 5amp power source.
Ive never tried Odyssey, i have friends who love them,
but i stick to Optima Red Tops or Classic DieHards if i
want to be cheap. I am currently running two Dekas in
my Excursion that have performed well beyond their
pay grades too...
Any decent battery will work. I tend to go with the Walmart MAXX 3 year free replacement batteries because there is a Walmart in every town if something does fail. Also, you can get a cutoff, but the PCM resets and has to relearn each and every time. Better is just put on a battery tender. If not, EVERY battery will die inside of 3 weeks on most early cars
