Head/Cam and what else

[SquadX]

I am doing a head/cam and besides the heads beginning ported and polished, what else needs to be done to the heads? For example, I hear that you should upgrade the springs, valves and various others parts that make up a fully assembled head.

Yes, I have called Greg Good but he's a busy man and its hard getting in touch with him.

any help would be appreciated.

 

[2001 GTS]

Greg will tell you everything you need to know.

Its a good idea to change springs, especially when changing the cam to a higher lift.

 

[plumcrazy]

keep calling greg. its worth the wait

 

[ViperTony]

Trying PM'g Greg too. He gave me the following advice when I inquired about getting my GenII heads done by him:

- Lifters
- Competition porting and polishing
- Multi-angle valve job, flow test, cc chambers, surface, pressure test, assemble.
- One piece racing stainless steel valves.
- Bronze valve guides.
- Chrome silicon endurance valve springs.
- Billet steel locks, steel spring locators, etc.
- The stock heads flow 240 cfm intake and 177 cfm exhuast. My ported Gen 2 heads flow 305 cfm intake, and 230 cfm exhaust.
- Rockers
- Cam

And his price is simply incredible. Well worth it. I'm waiting to pull the trigger on this in the spring.

- Tony

 

[FE 065]

Greg's mentioned a caution about the seats pounding themselves deeper into the head a bit over time if it's done the wrong way..maybe it the new valves were too large. Best to get some pro advice rather than drop the heads off at any old shop.

 

[Greg Good Cylinder Heads]

I thought I had returned all recent calls. Sorry. I'll try to describe most of what should be done. Hard to put it all in a late night post. It's best to remove the factory cast iron valve guides before starting the port work. After the port work is done solid bronze guides are installed (intake guides are tapered in a lathe first), then larger intake valve seats, then the valve job, hand blending, and flow work is done. You need aftermarket stainless steel valves for two reasons. One is the strength. The other is to run a slightly longer valve to get the rocker arm geoemetry correct.The valve spring package must match the cam profile. If you run a 708 cam, use a large diameter beehive spring, or a small diameter double. If you go with a fast ramped high lift hydraulic roller, use a larger diameter double spring and a titanium retainer. The right spring package will have either no shims or no more than a .060 shim. If you see a head with several shims under the springs it probably has the wrong spring package on it. There isn't much room on a Viper head below the valve seal for a lot of shims. A spring locator and a .060 shim is about it. I have two main packages that I use that have given me good service. Use billet steel locks. A cheap lock can shear.The valve job and guide prep is important. The guides must be honed for them to last. Also, the valve seats can be roughed in with a carbide cutter, but don't stop there. They must be finished with a stone to get them perfectly round, and the runout to an acceptable level so they seal. There's a lot of power in this. All the valve heights in the combustion chambers should be within .005 from the highest to lowest. The intakes will sit higher in the chamber than the exhausts, but all intakes should be within .005, and all exhausts within .005. These heights are set when the seats are roughed in. Doing this goes a long way in keeping the combustion chambers all the same volume, and the valve tips the same height, so that the springs all have the same intalled height, and the rockers are all have the same geometry.Factory Viton seals are fine and can be re-used. GregEdit: I tried to type this post in several paragraphs but it wouldn't take. ??????

 

[plumcrazy]

now thats an answer.

thanx greg