Just got off the dyno

[jrod_okc]

Car is a 2000 ACR. Belengers, cam(unknown), 3.55's, fidanza flywheel, clutch, full exhaust with cats, headwork(unknown), smooth tubes, factory air box with twin k&n filters.

Made 462hp and 489tq on 91 pump.

I was really hoping to hit 5xx but ohwell.
On the same dyno a 2000 gts made 383&420 stock

My question is this. What can I do to get some more power na and be good mods for when I go turbo later this year. I don't want to put a nos kit and spend the $$ for that and the tune just to pull it off in a few months for the turbos. Do my numbers seem about par?

 

[uvbnbit]

Seem about right to me. I think you lose 2-3% with the 3.55's. Don't ask me why, that's just what I've been told.

 

[plumcrazy]

Engine management?

 

[Dom426h]

Do my numbers seem about par?

Hard to tell without knowing what brand/manufacture dyno you were on?
Couple more Q's:
Did they hookup a wideband O2 to record A/F ?
Are those numbers SAE corrected?

If you were on a dynojet and can get the actual .drf dyno file email it to me and i'll take alook.

 

[coupe]

Also hard to judge your numbers when the cam and head-work are unknown. They're critical to what you're trying to do, especially without power-adders.

 

[Danino]

I thought GenII's made about 400HP stock, am I wrong?

 

[Dom426h]

Yes, ~400hp on a Dynojet SAE corrected. Other dynos will read more or less depending on the type/setup.

 

[Russ M]

You need to tune it, all that work without a tune will no doubt result in low power output and a poor running car.

Gen 2's make roughly 395-410hp at the wheels stock, depending on dyno and year of car.

 

[Twister]

sounds like a mustang dyno if a stocker only put down 383...
on a dynojet he would have hit 403 and you 490 respectively...

 

[DrumrBoy]

Also hard to judge your numbers when the cam and head-work are unknown. They're critical to what you're trying to do, especially without power-adders.

Exactly. Head flow and cam are the two biggest ingredients for NA power.

With an AEM or Motec (big $$$ for motec) engine management computer you can somewhat "back into" what the cam is trying to do and it'll be valuable for the TT upgrade as well. Not cheap, but you'll likely need something more than your OEM PCM to get the most out of your current and future mods.

 

[GTS Bruce]

Roller rockers and a dc tune. I make your hp with headers,rr,and a dc tune. Run on a dyno with F/A call DC send computer and they will tune. Seems low for a heads and cam car. DC can tune your computer for just about anything. Bruce

 

[BOTTLEFED]

Russ, is right. Get a tune.
An SCT should work well for you.

Also, if you don't know about the heads and cam, you could just have components designed for the wrong setup. Who knows who ported the heads, and the cam could be for a turbo car.


Once you get that figured out, get some 1.7RRs and you'll be set.

 

[plumcrazy]

pop a valve cover and see if it has RR's

 

[jrod_okc]

I did pop a cover no r r. The car us dead on af while making the pull. Someone has tuned it before for sure. My guess would be a 708 cam and port an polish heads along with everything else.

 

[plumcrazy]

weird that they would do heads and not RR's

 

[BOTTLEFED]

Like I said, who knows who did the headwork. They must not have known what they were doing.
The 708 is a stock cam, so you aren't going to see #s much higher than stock n/a.

 

[ViperTony]

These numbers are similar to what I've put down with headers, belangers, catback, tubes, filters and rockers w/tune be it Roe or SCT. I agree in that it's odd that 1.7 rockers weren't installed along with the headwork. Does the rest of the valve train also look stock i.e. springs, valves, retainers? Post up some pics.

 

['Trust']

Dyno was a Dynojet, SAE, smoothing on 5, A/F reference was 13.2, and it was dead on until 5,700 where it went a tad rich. Keep in mind, he was on 20" wheels as well. Drivetrain loss *****.

 

[jrod_okc]

i was thinking last night. Since i have had the car it has had a random miss. Some times you press the pedal to go, and the is a bog or delay, then it hits. Almost like it is not firing on all cylinders or there is a jacked up plug wire or coil or Injector. ^ Trust and I had dinner last night and were taling about it, what is yalls opinion?

 

[99 R/T 10]

If you haven't change plugs and wires yet, and they are old, I bet you will pickup another 10-20HP on that alone. Add the 1.7s, and you should have another 10-20. They change the lift of the cam from .542" to .575"

 

[Russ M]

i was thinking last night. Since i have had the car it has had a random miss. Some times you press the pedal to go, and the is a bog or delay, then it hits. Almost like it is not firing on all cylinders or there is a jacked up plug wire or coil or Injector. ^ Trust and I had dinner last night and were taling about it, what is yalls opinion?

Your question was already answered if you dont want to hear the answer dont ask the question.

Or are you looking for someone to offer you some magic tuning beans that fix all?

 

['Trust']

Your question was already answered if you dont want to hear the answer dont ask the question.

Or are you looking for someone to offer you some magic tuning beans that fix all?

How is this helpful, and where did someone answer his question prior to his question? He asked for opinions on a miss, he's already done plugs, and the second opinion was asinine.

 

[Russ M]

Im sorry was it you asking the questions or the person who started the thread?

Car needs a good tuner and a tune, to start with..

And if you tell me that that it was already done then my next comment will be the following.

A good tuner will know the following.

13.2 a/f is not good, its lean very lean to be clear. And this is probably being measured through a tail pipe sniffer that tend to read .5-1 point richer than a good air/fuel analyzer

Someone that knows if all cylinders are NOT firing.

Someone that knows if injectors are NOT firing

Or that the plug wires are bad.

He should also know little things like HOW TO TUNE a car and have the right equipment to tune a viper. A car that bogs when you give it gas suggest that YOURS had no such clue.

Anyways hope that was clear enough for you.

 

[Twister]

Again you have 80 more rwhp than a stocker on the same dyno...38x vs 46x respectively....you dont even.have all the bolt ons...meanong you probally have just stage one heads and a 708 cam. their would be very little doubt if you had a lumpier cam as even the stock cams lump on these cars...

your few basic bolt ons are worth 430 through 440 rwhp...acording the ggh a stage one ported head is worth around 20 rwhp and the 708 cam is worth around 5...seems about right to me...

the most powerful gen 2's in the world with every single last bolt on only hiy around 46x rwhp...throw on stage one heads and a mild cam and maybey they could hit 500 rwhp...

again 80 above the stocker isnt bad....change the wires and who knows...maybe 480 rwhp...100 over the stocker...wich is more than good for what appears to be a very mild setup

 

[jrod_okc]

Ok.. Thanks for the help.

I will due that and report back. Sorry for ruffling feathers.

 

[Next Phase]

Car is a 2000 ACR. Belengers, cam(unknown), 3.55's, fidanza flywheel, clutch, full exhaust with cats, headwork(unknown), smooth tubes, factory air box with twin k&n filters.

Made 462hp and 489tq on 91 pump.

I was really hoping to hit 5xx but ohwell.
On the same dyno a 2000 gts made 383&420 stock

My question is this. What can I do to get some more power na and be good mods for when I go turbo later this year. I don't want to put a nos kit and spend the $$ for that and the tune just to pull it off in a few months for the turbos. Do my numbers seem about par?

Just for reference, my bone stock (smooth tubes / K&N) 2001 GTS put down 425 rwhp and 456 rwtq on a dynojet last November.

 

[Russ M]

That would be a special dyno facility, on a properly calibrated dynojet your car will make roughly 400rwhp.

Don't get to caught up in the online dynojet wars, just use them as a baseline for your mods.

His car makes exactly what it should considering all the mods were put onto the car and nothing was done to make them work with the fuel/timing properly. After all is said and done I would not be surprised to see low 500's out of his car, if not more.

 

['Trust']

Im sorry was it you asking the questions or the person who started the thread?

Car needs a good tuner and a tune, to start with..

And if you tell me that that it was already done then my next comment will be the following.

A good tuner will know the following.

13.2 a/f is not good, its lean very lean to be clear. And this is probably being measured through a tail pipe sniffer that tend to read .5-1 point richer than a good air/fuel analyzer

Someone that knows if all cylinders are NOT firing.

Someone that knows if injectors are NOT firing

Or that the plug wires are bad.

He should also know little things like HOW TO TUNE a car and have the right equipment to tune a viper. A car that bogs when you give it gas suggest that YOURS had no such clue.

Anyways hope that was clear enough for you.

You understand that gasoline is stoich at 14.7:1 right? 13.2 is NOT lean for a N/A car. Stoich for E10 is a little richer.

He just bought the car and it is suppose to be H/C/I with a tune, that's what he is trying to figure out. He hasn't had anybody tune it yet.

I would agree, the car needs new plugs/wires and possibly o2's then take it to the track. Who cares really what the thing dyno's anyway. The whole "my car dyno'd 20 hp more than yours" is short lived the "his put 2 cars on mine".

 

[Black Moon]

I agree. When did 13.2 be considered rich and give the guy a break.

Russ, He just got it and is looking for a baseline to improve upon. Don't critize him for not being able to tune a car. Most people can't and hire a professional tuner.

QUOTE='Trust';2903133]You understand that gasoline is stoich at 14.7:1 right? 13.2 is NOT lean for a N/A car. Stoich for E10 is a little richer.

He just bought the car and it is suppose to be H/C/I with a tune, that's what he is trying to figure out. He hasn't had anybody tune it yet.

I would agree, the car needs new plugs/wires and possibly o2's then take it to the track. Who cares really what the thing dyno's anyway. The whole "my car dyno'd 20 hp more than yours" is short lived the "his put 2 cars on mine".[/QUOTE]

 

[Russ M]

You understand that gasoline is stoich at 14.7:1 right? 13.2 is NOT lean for a N/A car. Stoich for E10 is a little richer.

He just bought the car and it is suppose to be H/C/I with a tune, that's what he is trying to figure out. He hasn't had anybody tune it yet.

I would agree, the car needs new plugs/wires and possibly o2's then take it to the track. Who cares really what the thing dyno's anyway. The whole "my car dyno'd 20 hp more than yours" is short lived the "his put 2 cars on mine".

You are confusing a prius for a Viper I think. Go ahead and run your viper at 13.2 or better yet 14.7 let us know how that works out for you.

While you are busy arguing with me about part throttle lite load cruising tune's I am interested in max power/safe tunes. You may want to do some learning about what the difference is.