Oil Filter Recommendations

Bill W

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I've always used the OEM Viper oil filter (5037836AB) but I've been having difficulty finding them. When I do, they're running around $25 shipped, which seems overly expensive to me. Can someone recommend an alternate oil filter for Gen ll Vipers?
 

99RT10GTS

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Any good oil filter will work, K&N to WIX. Just avoid the Frams at all cost.
 

lane_viper

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I've used the Mobil 1 filter multiple times. Rock Auto has them for around $9 each

I wouldn't be too concerned with any high quality filter, Wix, Bosch, K&N.

Agree, avoid Fram for sure, I even avoid their "top tier" filters.
 

Steve-Indy

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Bill, here is a post from the "SRT Engineers" on this Forum:

"The SRT oil filter for all the past engines and the new 22mm inlet SRT filter for the Gen 4 and beyond engines share the same characteristics.
We worked with many of the filter suppliers to get the best features. Some fell out for various performance reasons but we ended up developing the current SRT filters with one of the mainstream manufacturers (it is different than their commercial offerings - or at least was when we developed it). The high flow oil pumps in our large engines (Viper is the biggest) can overpower the internal relief valve. When this valve opens it allows some of the high pressure dirty oil to bypass the filter element in order to keep the filter from being damaged. The SRT filters do indeed have a higher differential bypass valve to make sure all the oil delivered to your powerplant is clean. The housing is slightly thicker than many of the brands out there to handle the pressure but is not the thickest. The real thick ones failed our development testing (fractured at the crimped flange). The media used was one of the latest synthetics that allowed very fine filtration, more debris capacity, and much lower restriction than our standard Mopar filter (and just about every other filter out there). The final result was clean oil to your Snake, all the time, with more pressure to the internals where it is needed. I would fully recommend using this filter in your beast, I do in mine. Hope this info helps. KCC"
 
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Bill W

Bill W

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Steve, are you talking about the SRT (5038041AA) for my Gen ll Viper? Just want to be sure.
 

efnfast

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Buy it from a Dodge dealership?

I think I pay like $20 artic pesos for mine from a dealership, so that's like $14USD


Any good oil filter will work, K&N to WIX. Just avoid the Frams at all cost.
No they won't - they don't say 'Viper' on them so they're all a ************* compared to the mopar one.
 

Steve-Indy

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No, not at all Bill. The filter that you referenced is the same concept but it will only fit Gen Iv and V Vipers.

The special, similar concept filter for for Gen I, II. and Gen III Vipers is part number 05037836AB.

NEVER use the earliest form of this Gen I, II, III filter marked 05037836AA
 

Gen5GTS

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Hands down… Mobil 1 oil filters, especially since your running synthetic. They give you 20,000 miles per filter, so putting 3-7000 miles is nothing for those filters.
 

TEALLIFE

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Buy it from a Dodge dealership?

I think I pay like $20 artic pesos for mine from a dealership, so that's like $14USD



No they won't - they don't say 'Viper' on them so they're all a ************* compared to the mopar one.
i still use the OEM "viper" ones, but that doesnt mean the others won't work or might be even better lol
 

Mystique

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Just bought a 97 GTS last week and found a “Parts Plus” oil filter on her. Replaced it with the 5037836AB Viper filter. Haven’t had a hard time buying this filter. I use it on my 04 Ram SRT-10 and now my Gen 2. You can buy them on Amazon, eBay and a handful of other sites for $20-30. Fill them both up with Mobil-1 0W-40. Makes it easy.
 

Old School

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The earlier Viper oil filter 5037836AB has SAE threads while the later SRT filter 5038041AA has metric threads. The SRT filter is spec'ed for all Chrysler performance vehicles of the era so it's much easier to get.

The 2 are not interchangeable.
 

Dyno Dave

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Per Steve-Indy use the SRT filter for your application.. I did all the dyno work and tested a ton of filters. The production engines were having debris in the bearings and I found the filter bypass was being pushed open because of the high oil flow in the Viper. In effect no oil was getting filtered. Fram was the worst because it was the most restrictive. I wouldn't use the K&N. It's made by Champion products who makes everyone's house brand filter. I always use the Wix gold on my own vehicles and they are now made by Mann. If I owned a Viper it would get the SRT filter which has a higher bypass valve spring rate.
 

capevettes

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No, not at all Bill. The filter that you referenced is the same concept but it will only fit Gen Iv and V Vipers.

The special, similar concept filter for for Gen I, II. and Gen III Vipers is part number 05037836AB.

NEVER use the earliest form of this Gen I, II, III filter marked 05037836AA
The 05037836AB is the only filter I have ever used on my 01 GTS. I'm not going to try to out think the engineers. My Viper is worth a 25 dollar filter.
 

MoparMap

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I used to buy them a case at a time just so I had them on hand whenever I needed to do a change. I think that turned them into $10-12 a filter and $120 for a case. I was quite surprised the last time I reached into my stock box to do a chance and found out I had finally run out, but my 04 and my mom's 94 run the same filter, so they got used up moderately quickly.
 

efnfast

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Per Steve-Indy use the SRT filter for your application.. I did all the dyno work and tested a ton of filters. The production engines were having debris in the bearings and I found the filter bypass was being pushed open because of the high oil flow in the Viper. In effect no oil was getting filtered. Fram was the worst because it was the most restrictive. I wouldn't use the K&N. It's made by Champion products who makes everyone's house brand filter. I always use the Wix gold on my own vehicles and they are now made by Mann. If I owned a Viper it would get the SRT filter which has a higher bypass valve spring rate.

I used Wix/Napa Gold filters for decades, but wix turned to garbage after M+H bought them and then Napa Gold got outsourced to some junk chinese manufacturer. Very disappointing that part quality has gone down the toilet over the years :(
 

Tom and Vipers

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They talk about having a higher bypass pressure because of the high volume oil pump etc.
OE oil is 10w30, any issue with the XXw40 oils which many have said is a superior oil to the 10w30? Theoretically it should produce a higher hot pressure than w30.
 

Bonkers

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They talk about having a higher bypass pressure because of the high volume oil pump etc.
OE oil is 10w30, any issue with the XXw40 oils which many have said is a superior oil to the 10w30? Theoretically it should produce a higher hot pressure than w30.
When oil is hot there is no difference in fluid pressure of
ANY off the shelf oil weights. All hot motor oils flow
(statistically speaking) at the same rate. The difference
regarding the filter is during start-up when the oil is cold.
I run M1-15w50 on all my V10s because (spiritually) the zinc
content and smoother flow out weighs the potential bearing
cavitation and catalytic damage. Others feel differently. The
SRT Engineers even say the motor was designed for 10w40,
but the 10w30 was chosen to cover the warranty liabilities
of those Vipers being driven in Alaska and Antarctica.

If you drive in basic weather, the motor/filter is not going to
notice the difference once the engine has come up to temp.
 

TEALLIFE

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When oil is hot there is no difference in fluid pressure of
ANY off the shelf oil weights. All hot motor oils flow
(statistically speaking) at the same rate. The difference
regarding the filter is during start-up when the oil is cold.
I run M1-15w50 on all my V10s because (spiritually) the zinc
content and smoother flow out weighs the potential bearing
cavitation and catalytic damage. Others feel differently. The
SRT Engineers even say the motor was designed for 10w40,
but the 10w30 was chosen to cover the warranty liabilities
of those Vipers being driven in Alaska and Antarctica.

If you drive in basic weather, the motor/filter is not going to
notice the difference once the engine has come up to temp.
I'm not sure what you mean by all hot oils flow the same. If that were the case then it wouldnt matter if you ran 10w-20 or 10w-60...you're saying they all flow the same rate and pressure?

Pretty sure this is definitely not the case.

a 0w-40 and a 10w-40 should theoretically flow the same "hot". although in reality there is some difference
 

MoparMap

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I'm not sure what you mean by all hot oils flow the same. If that were the case then it wouldnt matter if you ran 10w-20 or 10w-60...you're saying they all flow the same rate and pressure?

Pretty sure this is definitely not the case.

a 0w-40 and a 10w-40 should theoretically flow the same "hot". although in reality there is some difference

I think what he might be getting at is that once hot, the oils tend to flow the same in the engine because of the pressure relief valve maybe? So whether you are running a 50 weight or a 20 weight oil, your hot oil pressure is usually going to be pretty similar once you get some rpm in the car because the system itself is what is controlling the oil flow more than the oil itself. I'm sure there's a lot more to it than that though. I've never understood how oil can be more viscous while hot, even though it pours easier. Just one of those weird chemistry things.
 

TEALLIFE

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I think what he might be getting at is that once hot, the oils tend to flow the same in the engine because of the pressure relief valve maybe? So whether you are running a 50 weight or a 20 weight oil, your hot oil pressure is usually going to be pretty similar once you get some rpm in the car because the system itself is what is controlling the oil flow more than the oil itself. I'm sure there's a lot more to it than that though. I've never understood how oil can be more viscous while hot, even though it pours easier. Just one of those weird chemistry things.
Gotcha...but that's just at peak pressure. The flow and pressures will vary up until that point is reached. But yes, it's the overall system that also determines pressure, etc...

There's a lot to oil beyond temp, pressure, flow....it's a crazy science. Every variable is a trade off.
 

Bonkers

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No, what im saying is that 15w50 has as kinetic flow rate of
14.588[mm2/s] at 210d while 0w30 has a 14.527[mm2/s.]
At zero degrees its 1480[mm2/s] and 550[mm2/s.] When
you are running at speed there is no appreciable difference
between ANY off the shelf oil (except Amsoil, that shit is
unsafe at any temperature.) In fact you need to get into
Gear oil before you start seeing any real baseline variances.
The significant differences come when the engine is cold
(especially frozen) and during the warm-up duration. Dodge
chose 10w30 despite the engineers recommendations because,
even though i dont know any owners in Nome Alaska or the
Siberian Tundra, liability demands that the car is setup to handle
those conditions.

Your question was whether the 110psi bypass on the Viper
Filters mattered during normal operation - "should produce
a higher hot pressure..." In theory, at 212d the difference
between oils is a fraction of a psi - AND the bypass should never
EVER be needed once the motor warms up. The bypass is
specifically for the first 5-15 seconds of 100psi V10 start
up pressure only. In freezing weather a Wix or Mobil filter
can allow a half a minute of unfiltered dirty oil to bypass
directly into the motor. To some thats worth the $10/yr in
savings, but not to me.
 

white out

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Usually K&N or OEM, whichever is more convenient at the time.
K&N does have the socket cap, which makes removal a touch easier.
 

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